
While you have a friend’s help, check out that all the lights are working, and take advantage of the opportunity to practice backing the truck and trailer.
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Hitching up a horse trailer, especially if it’s a bumper pull, can be difficult. If
you are
short, your truck has an extended cab or you have a tool box in
the bed, you may
not be able to see your bumper or hitch ball for the horse trailer. Then
hindsight may as well be
zero.
We polled a bunch of horse people to collect tips that they use to speed
their hitching process. Some still try to have a friend around to help
guide
them, but others say they’ve become adept at backing up to their
trailers alone.
Learning to hitch up quickly by yourself is imperative.
If you have a veterinary
emergency or have to evacuate your horses in
case of a natural disaster, then
the "get out, look, get in, back up,
repeat" method can not only be frustrating,
it can cost you precious
time.
First Steps
It may seem obvious, but we’ll reiterate it here anyway: The first step in
any hitching process concerns safety.
Begin by checking the interior of your trailer for bees, bad hay, dust or
other health dangers. Check the soundness of the floors by poking a
knife into
the wood. Rotting wood will take a knife blade easily. Check
your tire pressure
on both the tow vehicle and the trailer, and make
sure all door latches are
oiled and working properly. Put fresh hay in
the hay bag or manger, and sweep or
pitchfork any manure remnants or
wet shavings out of the trailer. Check the
coupling device, so that
when you get into the correct position, it will slip on
easily.
Because you have to line up the hitch apparatus with a 2- to 3-inch-diameter
ball, and you have to do so blind, it helps to break down the hitching
process
into two parts — both requiring that you estimate space and
distance.
The first estimation involves centering your truck so that it meets the hitch
ball. The second requires you to measure the distance between your
hitch and the
trailer tongue accurately, so you don’t bang into it or
have to continually get
in and out of the trailer.
| Hitching Help |
| -Position your truck so that its rear tires form the top of a
rectangle and your trailer’s front tires form the bottom.
- Decals or orange-dot stickers from an office supply store can
help you mark helpful spots for hitching.
- Find the center of your trailer and the center of your truck’s
bumper to line up your truck with the hitch ball.
- A stone or stick in the ground parallel with the hitch ball can
help you measure the decreasing distance between your truck and the
hitch.
- When attaching the coupling device, look underneath to make sure
the clamp isn’t riding on top of the ball instead of below it. |
The Friend Method
At first, the easiest way to learn to hitch quickly is to have a friend help
you.
Place your truck in position by imagining that its rear tires are the top
corners of a rectangle laid on the ground. The front wheels of your trailer are
the bottom corners, and the tongue juts right into the center of that short side
between your trailer wheels. The wheels should all line up, forming the long
sides of the rectangle.
Use your passenger side mirror to see the right side of the truck and trailer
and line them up. Ask your friend to stand outside of the rectangle on the
driver’s side but parallel with the hitch ball. Never place a person between the
rear end of your truck and your trailer. Even though you are driving very
slowly, you never know when the trailer could roll or your foot could slip off
the brake.
Have your friend outstretch her right arm and point down at the hitch. Turn
around in your seat so that you are looking over your right shoulder. Center
your friend’s pointing finger in the middle of your rear window and slowly
decrease the size of the rectangle.
If you aren’t able to come at it straight, pull forward and start again. As
you get closer, have your friend signal with the left hand to keep coming, then
slow way down and finally stop, with the ball directly under the hitch.
Sometimes, even with a friend helping, you’ll need to get out and look at the
last few inches to take a mental picture of the distance. Only you know your
vehicle well enough to know how much release on the brake equals two inches of
travel. Releasing the brake just enough, inch backwards until your friend gives
you the stop sign.
It may be helpful, once you are lined up correctly with the hitch ball, to
have your friend show you the distance between your bumper and the hitch by
holding her two hands up in approximately the same width, bringing her hands
together as you get closer, until she signals you to stop.
Hitching Up Alone
The first few times you hitch up alone will require a great deal of getting
in the truck, backing up a few feet, getting out, eyeballing the distance
between the hitch ball and the coupler, getting in, backing up the estimated
distance, getting out, checking again and so on. It’s a long and potentially
frustrating process, but there’s really no avoiding it. It just takes practice,
and even trailer hitchers who’ve been at it for years have to get out and look
now and then.
Still, it’s a good idea to repeat the hitching up process a few times with
your friend present, for the sake of practice. While she’s there, try to find a
spot in the center of your truck behind you that corresponds with the pointing
finger. Later, you’ll use this spot as a marker to practice by yourself.
Finding the Center
Horse people who frequently use their
trailers develop systems and habits
that help them hitch up quickly.
One of the most useful tips is determining a
mark or spot to find the
center of the truck.
Begin by lining up the truck and trailer in a straight line, in the rectangle
position. Then look for landmarks you can use to center it. You’ll need
three
such markers if you are hitching up a bumper-pull trailer: One
that marks the
center of your trailer, another that marks the center of
your truck bumper and a
third to measure the distance between your rear
bumper and the trailer tongue.
The marker can be as simple as a trailer manufacturer’s decal, an orange dot
price tag that you get at the office supply store and stick on your
trailer or
even a scratch in the paint. Some trailer manufacturers have
intentionally
placed logos on the center of their trailer fronts.
Aerodynamic trailers with
pointy noses allow you to simply find the
center of your truck bed and line it
up with the point.
The next step is to find the middle of your truck tailgate or back window of
your full-sized SUV. The orange-dot method can work well here, too, but
they
tend not to stick when they get wet, so don’t expect the stickers
to be there
next time you hitch up. Some people visually measure the
distance between bolts
in their truck bed, or you can count the number
of ridges from each side of the
truck bed to find the center spot. Then
you can align the center of your trailer
and the hitch ball more
easily.
You may not always be able to position your truck so that it lines up
straight. You may find yourself in a tight parking space that forces
you to
maneuver into hitching position at an angle. But if you can spot
the rectangle
from your back wheels directly behind you (it won’t line
up with your trailer
tires if you are coming in at an angle), know
where the center of your truck’s
rear bumper is and can line that up
with the hitch, it will make it much easier
in tight or angled spaces.
To measure the decreasing distance between the back of a truck and the hitch,
you can choose a spot on the ground, outside of the rectangle. Place a
stone
there, or poke a stick in the ground. The spot should be lined up
parallel with
the hitch ball.
Once you’ve marked it, get back in the truck and, alternating between looking
over the right shoulder and left, slowly close the distance between the
stick or
stone and your rear bumper. If you are short, you may want to
angle your
driver’s side mirror slightly down and toward the truck so
that you can see the
back fender. As you back up, continuously look
over the right shoulder to check
your truck bed and trailer center
markers to make sure you’re on course.
With some trailers, getting within an inch of the ball is all that’s
necessary. You can then remove the wheel chocks and drop the hitch onto
the
ball. The trailer will roll into position.
Gooseneck Trailers
The same theories apply to hitching up a gooseneck trailer, although it tends
to be much easier because, in most cases, you can see when the tongue
and ball
meet. However, if you’re short, have a crew cab or have a
toolbox against the
cab (or any combination of the above), then you may
not be able to see the ball
in your bed. In this case, you have to
choose a line on your lowered tailgate
and keep the tongue of your
trailer centered on that line as you back up.
You’ll also need to find a spot on the top of the wall of your bed parallel
to your hitch ball to help you know when to stop. That could be a
scratch, a
mark or a measured distance between bolts.
The easiest way to line up your truck and keep the tongue on the right track
is to watch the actual ridges in the truck bed or bed liner. As you
back up,
keep the tongue over the ridge that leads to the hitch ball.
Then you can inch
slowly up to the tongue and apply the brake. Remember
that with automatic
transmissions there will still be the tiniest bit
of roll after you put the
truck in park, so give yourself a half-inch
or so in leeway. With manual
transmissions, engage the parking brake as
soon as you are centered under the
tongue and park the truck in gear to
prevent rolling.
Finishing Up and Hitting the Road
It may seem simple, but the next step is the most important in hitching up
your trailer. Attach the coupling device, and when you think it is
securely in
place, look underneath to make sure the clamp isn’t riding
on top of the ball
instead of below it. The coupler holds the trailer
to the tow vehicle.
Sometimes couplers need a little push or pull to get them to lock down. That
may require inching the tow vehicle forward a hair until you feel the
"thunk"
that signals that the hitch ball and coupler have connected.
Then crank it down
on the ball and lock the coupler down with the pin
(or other device, depending
on your hitch).
On a bumper-pull trailer, see if you can lift the tongue. If you can, it
means your hitch isn’t secure. For a gooseneck, jump up and down in the
bed once
or twice to see that the trailer tongue follows the truck and
doesn’t come
unhooked.
Hook up the equalizer bars on your bumper pull, plug in your electrical cord
and loop any excess wire so it doesn’t drag or get ripped out. Attach
the safety
chains and the safety brake switch. Finally, don’t forget to
raise the trailer
jack to its highest position. And in a gooseneck,
raise the tailgate and make
sure it clicks in.
Then check all your electrical. Turn on each turn signal and check each time.
Turn on your lights and put a book or some other heavy object on your
truck
brakes so you can be sure the lights are working. Pull forward a
foot or two to
check that your trailer and truck brakes are
engaging.
When you’ve loaded the horses, you’ll have to repeat this part of the
exercise and adjust the trailer brakes according to the added weight.
But better
to check that everything is working before you load.
You’ll also want to make sure the trailer is level, and that all the tires
have the proper air pressure. Your trailer guide should give you a PSI
(pounds
per square inch) rating loaded and unloaded.
When you want to practice trailer hitching, choose a quiet time when you
don’t have to be anywhere for a while. Give yourself time to pick out
little
landmarks and get a feel for how to ride the brake when you’re
backing up. Just
as in training a horse, correct repetition will
eventually burn it into your
brain and you’ll be an old hand at
hitching.