
Inspect the coupler on a used trailer. If it’s damaged, that’s a deal-breaker.
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If economic times have forced you out of the new horse trailer
market, then you’re probably looking at buying a used trailer instead.
The best way to weed out the lemons is to focus on evaluating
the trailers themselves using a methodical approach. Use the checklist included
here to compare apples to apples.
Here are elements to check as you move through each
evaluation:
Size. If you have standard size
horses, a six-foot wide trailer will comfortably fit two horses. Go wider for
bigger horses. Make sure there’s enough headroom, too.
Outward Condition. How does the
trailer look? Has it been well maintained or does it look rusty, scraped up, or
poorly painted? While faded paint is no big deal, the owner who makes little
effort to keep his trailer looking good also hasn’t likely maintained the more
important mechanical and electrical systems.
Tires. Tires are crucially important
to smooth ride and safety while hauling. What condition are the tires in? Are
they properly inflated? Is the wear pattern even?
Hitch Coupler. Inspect the coupler.
Does it appear that all the parts are there and in working order? Are the safety
chains attached and in good condition? Is it damaged? Don’t try to fix a damaged
coupler.
Loading Gate. What kind of gate does
the trailer have? Will your horse step up and back down while loading and
unloading? Or is a ramp a better choice for you?
Floor. Thoroughly examine the
trailer’s floor. Walk on it, even jump on it. Pull the mats up and out for a
thorough inspection. If the floor is wood, are there any holes or soft, spongy
spots? Check metal flooring for rust or corrosion.
Dividers and Bars. Are the dividers
secure? Can they be removed and adjusted? Do they work smoothly? What about butt
and breast bars? Test them!
Other Inside Elements. Is the wall
padding in good condition? Are any hay rings missing? Is a water tank available?
Is it water-tight and rust-free?
Ventilation. Stock trailers have an
open design with plenty of ventilation for the warmer months. If you have cold
winters, does the trailer have Plexiglas windows, or can you add them?
Conversely, on an enclosed trailer, check for adequate ventilation via windows
and/or roof vents. Make sure all venting options can be opened, closed, or left
partially open.
Electrical. Do the electrical
connectors mate? Turn on the parking lights and check that the taillights and
running lights work. Make sure the brake lights come on. Test the directional
signal lights and four-way flashers. If the trailer has inside lighting, make
sure it works.
Undercarriage. It’s a dirty job, but
you need to look under the trailer with a good light. Search for rust, dents,
and other signs of damage or general neglect. Also look for leaks, such as oil
from the axel housing; loose or missing bolts; exposed or broken wiring; or
broken axel housing, frame members, or any other structural member.
Look at the underside of the floor. If it’s wooden, do you see
any rot? Poke a screwdriver into any questionable spots—they should be hard and
the screwdriver shouldn’t penetrate the wood. Do you see rust or corrosion on a
metal floor? Do you see any light coming through from above?
Driving Test. Hook the trailer to
your truck and test-haul it before buying.
Start driving at walking speed to determine if everything feels
right. Then accelerate to about 10 mph. Does the trailer haul effortlessly or
drag? Does it pull unevenly? Apply the brakes; do you have adequate stopping
power? Does the trailer fishtail when driving or braking? Next, accelerate to 35
to 45 mph. Does the trailer feel stable or does it sway? Does it track straight
behind you? Slow down and then stop. Did you have any stopping or control
concerns?
Warranty. If the trailer is fairly
new, is there a warranty still in effect? Can it be transferred to you? If it’s
an older trailer, ask to see past service records, invoices,
etc.
Negotiate. Ask the owner if you can
have your mechanic take a look. If the owner objects, drop this trailer from the
list. Use any items that need work to negotiate the price downward since you’ll
have to spend money to fix or replace parts.
Finally, consider the economic climate and prices of similar trailers. If the
trailer really is what you want, but unaffordable, discuss that with the owner.
They likely want to sell the trailer as much as you want to buy it. Some honest
dialog can often bridge a seemingly wide gap to meet a middle ground comfortable
for both parties.