Mules are no longer an oddity in the equestrian world. Their long ears and big, soft eyes, not to mention their intelligence and great ride, have been the reason that a number of riders have switched from horses to mules.

However, because of their intelligence, mules must be trained humanely and correctly. "If they don’t know what they can get away with, don’t teach them what they can," says Brad Cameron, who’s been instructing mulemanship clinics for 13 years.

Cameron, based in Corvallis, Montana, has been riding mules all his life. His family ran an outfitting business, where he grew up riding and handling horses and mules. "I always liked mules," he says. "I was drawn to their personality, the way they react, the way they think, and their overall integrity."

When Cameron started giving clinics, he changed the face of mulemanship. "Some mules brought to me are really troubled," he says. "I’ve been handed mules that would try to kick my head off, slam me into the rails, knock me down, and run over me. It’s very rewarding when I start getting their trust. They become less defensive and able to learn. Unfortunately, before I started teaching owners and mules one-on-one, the mules didn’t stay trusting very long. That is why I went to giving clinics where the owners work with their mules."

To teach your mule to relax and focus on you, start with halter-driving. You can also use halter-driving to warm up your mule before you ride, and evaluate his attitude before you mount up or proceed with other work.

Here, we’ll first discuss Cameron’s halter-driving guidelines, then give you his three-step halter-driving method. Along the way, we’ll give you a glimpse into the mind of a mule, in Cameron’s own words.

Halter-Driving Guidelines
Halter-driving prepares your mule for riding and the world beyond the pasture. It establishes control and respect that’s later transferred to under-saddle work. Even if you’re already riding your mule, halter-driving can make a difference. Here are some guidelines:

• Use a halter/lead rope. Use a rope halter and a 12-foot lead rope without a snap. "If the lead attaches with a snap, most of the feel sent down the lead rope will die at the snap," explains Cameron. "Your mule will easily push against the flat nylon and ignore your frustrating, futile attempts at lead-rope direction. The messages you send down the lead rope will be much clearer if you use a good-fitting rope halter with the lead attached directly to it."

• Never use a shanked bit. As your mule becomes well-trained under saddle with a snaffle bit, you may also use a snaffle bit to perform this exercise. Avoid bits with shanks; pressure from the shanks will interfere with your cues.

• Find a good work area. Generally, ground work is done in an enclosed area. However, for halter-driving, you don’t necessarily need the confinement of a pen, says Cameron. "You can work next to a trailer before a ride, out in the pasture, or even in the hills."

• Have a plan. Before you work with your mule, know what you want to accomplish and how you’ll accomplish it.

• Be patient. Take your time, and set realistic expectations. A lesson may take an hour, a day, a week, or even a month.

• Be confident. Always proceed as though your mule will perfectly perform the lesson. This approach will instill confidence in both your mule and yourself.

• Reward with pats. Reward desired behavior with pats or rubs, not treats from your hand, says Cameron. Treats can encourage biting.

Step 1: Small Circle Left

Step 2: Tighten the Circle

3-Step Method
"If you can control the feet, you can control the mule," notes Cameron. Here’s his three-step method to halter-driving your mule, which focuses on foot control.

Step 1. Ask for a small circle. Stand just behind your mule’s left shoulder. Hold the lead rope in your left hand, and the remainder in your right hand. Ask your mule to go forward in a small circle to the left, at a walk, as though longeing him. Use lead-rope pressure to guide him. Twirl the end of the lead rope to encourage him to follow your guide hand. If you need to, bump him on the hip or hindquarters.

As your mule walks in a circle, his body will arc around you, his body bent out, and his head and hindquarters curved in toward you. Point your feet in the same direction as his feet, and move in an equal stride. As soon as your mule understands this step, circle him a few times, then go to Step 2.

Step 2. Tighten the circle. When your mule walks well on a circle to the left, ask him to make the circle a little tighter. To do so, you’ll ask him to turn his hindquarters so that his left hind leg crosses in front of his right foot. (This sounds complicated, but it’s not.) To achieve this, hold the lead rope in your right hand and the remainder in your left hand. Then change your direction of travel by walking toward your mule’s tail. Now, you’re still turning him to the left, but by switching your guide hand, you’re bending his nose more to the inside (Photo 2B). As you move toward your mule’s hip, watch for his hind feet to cross over. Note that your feet are now going the opposite direction of his feet. It’s kind of like you’re doing a do-si-do with your mule!

Step 3. Change direction. When your mule smoothly performs a couple of crossover steps, ask him to change direction, using the bend you achieved in Step 2. To change direction, halt your forward movement. This should halt your mule and shift his weight back onto his hindquarters. Simultaneously, use your right hand (still your guide hand) to direct him to turn until he changes direction. His forehand will cross in front of you, putting you on his right side.

When done smoothly, you won’t move your feet; your mule will do the moving. Of course, it may take a number of attempts to perform this step smoothly. Be patient. Your mule may not immediately understand what you’re asking, but when he does, this step will become easy.

Now your mule is set up to go on a circle to the right. Perform Steps 1 through 3 to the right. Repeat this entire exercise from both sides several times. You’ll gradually get to the point that you can ask for a specific number of circles in Step 1, cross-over steps in Step 2, and direction changes in Step 3. Congratulations, you’re in control!