Gaited horses have several more "gears" than do trotting horses. As a
gaited
horse owner, your goal will be to "get the gait" consistently, without your
horse reverting to a trot or pace. Further, you need to make sure he isn’t
performing a stepping pace, which is smooth to you, but will wreak physical
havoc on him over time.
The good news is that training your horse to gait is as easy as 1-2-3-4:
walking! That’s right, you can easily learn how to walk your horse right into
his best natural saddle gait.
Before you begin, make sure your horse is comfortable in his tack, and has
plenty of freedom through his back. Discomfort or physical restriction of any
kind will sabotage your best efforts.
Plan to ride with the impulsion aids with which you’re comfortable, such as a
crop, spurs, or long reins. To perform a correctly timed saddle gait, your horse
has to use every muscle in his body. Therefore, you must insist on this gait as
strongly and persistently as is necessary.
(Note: Avoid a gaited-horse trainer who uses shortcuts, such as unnatural
shoeing and trimming, weights, chains, and other artificial aids. Such
techniques can affect your horse’s soundness and aren’t effective in the long
run.)

This mare lacks collection at a moderate gait. (Note the hollow back.)
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Get the Gait
Here’s my step-by-step technique for getting a smooth saddle gait.
Step 1. Ask for an active walk. Mount up, and ask your horse
for an active,
vigorous walk, but don’t allow him to jump up to a
faster gait. If he does,
apply a light rein cue to check him, while
simultaneously using your seat and
leg to keep the forward momentum.
Ask him to walk as fast as he can without
changing gait. I call this
exercise "working the walk."
Step 2. Maintain an active walk. As you apply these cues,
your horse might
tend to pick up speed, but immediately return to a
slower walk. Anticipate this
behavior, and take quick action to prevent
it. The instant you feel him begin to
take a slower step, sit back, and
use your leg and impulsion aids as strongly as
necessary to maintain
his speed. Tip: Avoid continually using your boot heel to
bump your
horse up to speed. He’ll simply learn to ignore the continual,
annoying
nudging on his rib cage.
Step 3. Increase collection. When your horse is willingly
"working the walk,"
begin increasing his degree of collection.
This
will help maintain correct form
and timing, while
enabling you to
obtain greater impulsion and speed.
To do so, walk your horse right up to (and perhaps slightly over) the "edge"
of where he can maintain the walk without breaking into a faster gait.
If he
starts to break, perform a halt that’s similar to a
"mini"
sliding stop: Keep
your hands low, push down into your
seat, and apply
leg aids while applying
backward pressure
equally on both reins. This
will ideally get him to shift his
weight back over his haunches when he
halts. From the halt,
ask for a couple of
backward steps by continuing
to apply
backward rein pressure. Then halt, and
allow some slack in the
reins.

Here, the rider allows a bit more slack in the reins, then asks for a light half halt. The mare now works her gait in comfortable, beautiful form.
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Step 4. Again move into an active walk. From the halt, ask
your horse to
again move into an active walk. Maintain light rein
contact to encourage him to
keep his weight rearward. This lightens up
his front end, encourages him "dig
in" from behind, and thereby
improves his gait’s speed and timing.
Troubleshooting tip: If your horse raises his head or worries the
bit in
response to rein pressure, lighten your rein contact just a bit.
You might be
requesting more collection and impulsion (which works his
topline muscles) than
he’s ready for. However, don’t allow too much
rein slack, as this will allow him
to shift his weight forward — and a
horse that’s heavy on the forehand won’t be
able to perform a correct
gait. Your horse will better respond to your cues as
he builds muscles
and stamina.
Step 5. Ask for increase collection and speed. When your
horse responds well
to the halt and rein-back exercise (this should
take only two or three riding
sessions), request greater collection and
speed via the half halt. The half halt
is essentially the same as the
halt, except that the instant your horse responds
to your rein and
weight aids by hesitating (indicating a backward weight shift),
you
maintain rein contact, and ask him to move more actively forward.
By consistently working the walk, and increasing collection, impulsion, and
speed by practicing the halt, rein back, and half halt, you’ll soon
become your
horse’s best gaited horse trainer!

The Walkaloosa broodmare speeds from a walk into a perfect four-beat gait at liberty. Note the streaming mane and tail.
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Is He in the Stepping Pace?
As you ask your horse to gait, he may raise his head, hollow his back, and
revert to a trot or stepping pace. Such action allows him to avoid
employing the
big muscles along his entire topline, and just sort of
shuffle his legs
underneath himself in an easy, lazy amble.
The stepping pace may actually be smooth, but it’s in bad form and is hard on
his hocks and stifles. It also hinders your ability to obtain gait
consistency.
There are two ways to tell, from the saddle, whether your horse is performing
a stepping pace, rather than the correct, square gait: (1) If he jumped
right up
from a slow walk to a fast gait, with no "middle gear" or
smooth transition; and
(2) if his head is moving from side to side,
rather than up and down, indicating
a lateral, or pacey, gait.
Note that some horses will always have a slight inclination toward a lateral
gait. But if your horse is holding correct walk form, his mane will bob
up and
down. Any correctly formed gait will ultimately be expressed in
front via some
degree of head nod or shake.