
As John and Preacher ride along here, you can see a good example of where your horse’s head should be when you ride. Imagine positioning his head no further than this off to either side.
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The horse’s head and neck are arguably the most beautiful part of
this wondrous creature. They’re also vital to the horse’s perceptions,
reactions, and balance. Some people really mess with their horses’ heads—in all
senses of the word. But, for the moment, let’s just talk about physical
placement of your horse’s head as you ride.
Gadgets, Fads & Shortcuts
It’s past time to take a clear look at some of the odd and
incorrect "tools" that are touted for improving the position of your horse’s
head and his responsiveness to the bit. Remember that you improve your horse’s
performance by using a specific formula: What’s real? How far? How little? How
fast? All of these tools require an objective outlook.
In his natural state, a horse knows exactly what to do with his
head and neck. When we climb on top of him, he has to learn how to carry our
weight and respond to our cues in a new state of balance. And he tries. We,
however—interfering creatures that we are—keep putting that important head and
neck in places and positions they shouldn’t be. Some of those places and
positions aren’t particularly safe for either of us.
Training fads in the horse industry can be tricky things. The
show ring regularly creates really bizarre postures that bring blue
ribbons—until the fashion changes. For the rest of us, maybe we don’t want to
ride with our horse’s ear in our mouth or his chin dragging on the ground.
Gadgets and shortcuts can be really tempting, especially if someone famous
pushes them.
Unfortunately, gadgets don’t work. There aren’t any "shortcuts"
in horse training. It’s easy to go too far and lose sight of what we really want
to accomplish. And it’s really simple to inadvertently teach our horses things
we really don’t want them to learn. This is what has happened to many people
over the last decade in regard to bending the horse’s head.
It has become quite the fad to "soften" or "supple" the horse’s
neck and "make him responsive to the bit" by bending his head all the way to the
rider’s knee while the horse stands perfectly still. But having the horse stand
while his head is pulled around very clearly says to him, "Let me bend your head
to my knee, but don’t change what you’re doing with your feet." This is not at
all the message we want him to remember as we ask him to respond to a bit cue at
a walk, trot, canter, or especially a dead run while heading for the highway or
a cliff.
If we need a panic stop, some people tell us to bend the
horse’s head around until he’s so unbalanced that he stops moving his feet. Then
we release the rein as the "Yes, that’s what I want" cue. It’s okay to release
the rein when the horse stops moving his feet, but the extreme overbending
repeats that "Let me haul your head far to the side, but don’t move your feet in
response to the rein" message mentioned earlier.
Bending the horse’s neck for any reason while his feet are
stationary makes no sense because what we need is the exact opposite. We want
our horse to change what he’s doing with his feet whenever we even reach for the
rein. That contact with the rein is his signal to do something different in
speed or direction. This is definitely not a tool we want to make dull!
Sometimes what we’re teaching is correct, but we stay with the
lesson too long. This has happened to many people in regard to bending or
positioning their horse’s head for a particular movement, such as softening the
shoulder to move the horse diagonally. It’s useful for a time, but can be and
often is done too much and for too long.
This sort of thing happens when you don’t have a checkpoint to
let you know when you and your horse have succeeded. Or maybe you find that
you’ve been struggling for what seems like forever with no progress. In this
case, you may find that there’s a more productive way to reach your goals and
get back on track with what you want to teach.

Defining your horse’s ideal head position begins with understanding the ideal finished head position. You want your horse’s nose inside the flat part of his shoulders. In other words, the best position is almost straight out in front of his body. Work to keep the bit from coming outside a line from the inside of your knee lined up with the flat part of the horse’s shoulder or in line with the sides straight forward. This gives you about a 4-inch area of movement off center in both directions for the nose.
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First GradeWith all that said, what is your goal for your horse’s head
position? First, what’s good for your horse’s balance is going to be best for
both of you. You’ll be safer and more comfortable. He’ll be happier and more
balanced.
To really balance himself, your horse has to be bent in the
direction he’s moving. If you’re going in a straight line, his body should be
straight. If you’re riding a circle or turn to the left, his body should be bent
slightly to the left. If you’re moving your horse on a diagonal to the left, you
want his nose slightly to the left, not to the right. The trouble is that it’s
so normal and easy to bend his nose to the right and move his hindquarters to
the left. It’s normal for us and it’s normal for him.
It’s not, however, the way he’s going to be in his best balance
when he has a rider on his back.
As perceptive readers, you’re now going to start paging back
through this and previous issues thinking, "Wait a minute. Every exercise we’ve
practiced so far in these "hips over" exercises has had us pick up the right
rein to move the hindquarters to the left!"
Yes. That’s the way we start. But now it’s time to progress to
the next level in head positioning. You should only spend a short time on an
exercise with your horse that allows him to bend his head too far and to the
incorrect side. You should be pretty much done with that now. Think of it this
way: Letting your horse bend his head as far as he wanted to on the right side
when he was moving his hips to the left was first grade. But you only want to
stay in first grade with your horse for a little while—not for a year or more,
much less forever.
Your goal is to have your horse’s nose slightly to the left
when he’s moving his hindquarters to the left. For these lessons, we’ll consider
this position to be 100%. Right now, he almost undoubtedly has his nose to the
right when he’s moving his hip to the left. We’ll call this 0%. This is okay for
a starting point, but not for the ending point.
Remember that taking inventory of where your horse is in his
training helps you to know when to go to the next step. Before you begin to
focus on advancing your horse’s head off that 0% position, you should be able to
accomplish the following:
• Using less than 6 ounces of pressure on the rein, you should
be able to move your horse’s hindquarters away from the rein, even to the point
of doing a turn on the forehand.
• You should see a gradual lessening of the bend of your
horse’s head to the side when you want the hindquarters to move. It’s important
that you, as the rider, are not on automatic pilot when picking up the reins and
are not inadvertently pulling his head exactly the same distance to the side to
move his hip over.
Let’s say you’re asking your horse to move his hips over to the
left. You’re putting 6 ounces of pressure on the rein. Your horse is bending his
head to the right at about 2 o’clock or less. He’s completely stopping his front
feet as he continues to move his hindquarters to the left, making a nice pivot.
You are now ready to go on to the next step.

Preacher moves his hindquarters over on a loose rein without bending his head too far to the side (Photo 1). You’ll aim for a good head elevation and nose position, like Preacher has here (Photo 2). John’s hands are soft and relaxed, helping Preacher’s head stay low. He’s also focused on what he’s doing, helping you to see deliberate practice in action (Photo 3).
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Bend Toward MovementUp to this point, you’ve probably spent two or three days
working with your horse’s hindquarter control. It could have been a bit less; it
could have been a bit more. Your plan now is to get this slight bend to the left
as he moves his hips to the left during one lesson. It should take you 30
minutes to an hour.
Your goal is to get your horse’s head to that 100% mark, which
is about 4 inches to the left of the left front concho on your saddle instead of
to the right, while he does exactly what you’ve been asking him to do with his
front feet and hindquarters. You won’t ask for perfection right away. The first
step is just to limit by a few degrees how far he bends his head to the
right.
The aid or tool that you’ll use to keep your horse from bending
too much is the outside rein. Yes, the left one. You’ve let that left rein be
slack up to this point whenever you asked him to move his hindquarters to the
left. Now you’re going to use it to limit how far his head can go to the right
when he responds to that right rein asking him to move his hindquarters to the
left.
That’s a lot of lefts and rights, so re-read it a few times!
Think about it slowly as you close your eyes and hold imaginary reins in your
hands. Right hand asks for the movement. Left hand keeps the head from moving
too far over.
A big factor in making all this come together as planned is
your leg cue that keeps the horse moving. It’s pretty much guaranteed that the
first time he feels pressure from both reins he’s going to want to stop moving.
Do not under any circumstances pull harder on the right rein to try to get his
feet moving again.
When (not if) he stops, keep your hands the same. Brace them in
the same position, then begin asking with both legs evenly for the horse to move
his feet. When he starts moving again, he’ll probably go forward rather than
move his hips over. As he does this, with each step he takes forward, continue
adding just a little more pressure evenly to both reins. Do not pull more on the
right rein than you do on the left rein. This would cause him to bend his head
more to one side, which is what we’re trying to get rid of.
If your horse just doesn’t understand that you still want him
to move his hindquarters to the left when there is any pressure on that left
rein, then you may have to increase the pressure on the right rein for just a
time or two. Keep a little left pressure, but go ahead and bend your horse’s
head another inch to the right until he gets the idea to move just his
hindquarters. The next time you make the same request, try to bend his head a
little less to the side.
If this happens, don’t view this as a failure for either of
you. You’re trying to explain to your horse what you’re thinking. He doesn’t
automatically know what he’s supposed to do. Any hint you can give him is a good
thing. It only makes the learning process easier on both of you.
Try again. Keep light contact with the left rein while you cue
for the "hips over" turn with the right rein. Your horse will probably again
continue forward for two or three or four steps and then stop all movement
again. Use your leg cues to get the feet moving again. He should then move his
hindquarters a step or two to the side. At that moment, instantly release both
reins.
You’ve now accomplished an improvement of about 5% less bend to
the right! Repeat the same exercise until your horse is doing it consistently
with less bend in his neck. Then work on consistently using less and less
pressure until he’s doing the maneuver on a slack rein.
When you’ve both achieved this, you’re ready for another 5%
increase toward your goal. Each subsequent increase should take about the same
amount of time. Sometimes it may be a little more, sometimes a little less. As
you become more proficient at teaching the lesson, any horse you are working
with will generally take less and less time.
When you have reached your 100% goal, your horse’s head will be
to the left, at the line of your left stirrup and the flat part of his shoulder.
When you begin to pick up the right rein, asking his tail (right hip bone, our
right hip pocket) to move to the left, the slack doesn’t come out of either
rein. The horse begins to slow his forward motion and begins to move his tail
(right hip, your right hip pocket) to the left.
Win-Win Situation
You win. Your horse wins. He didn’t want to bend his head to
the right anyway. You’ll also have to practice this move to the right, of
course. Depending on your time availability, you can do that now or wait for
your next ride.
What makes this lesson go very smoothly and quickly is the time
and effort you put in to teaching the "hips over" and tail control with the one
rein.
When you can move the hips over while keeping the horse’s head on the same
side as the direction his hips are moving, don’t practice letting the horse
bring his head to the other side at any time unless you’re doing a very short
review for advancing to another performance maneuver. An example of this would
be when we begin to teach a haunches or hips in and collection. But we’ll get to
that later…