
One effect of this exercise is that the horse develops a smooth, beautiful look to his neck.
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You’ve read plenty of articles on how to solve different
problems, and perhaps you’ve worked through various training exercises. But
what’s missing in your mind is the framework — the overall plan — so that you
know how to fit all that training together. Well, here it is.
John uses this same system with every horse. It will give
you control if you have a horse who’s difficult to lead or who gets too frisky
on the trail. But doing a thorough job with this lesson will also give you more
sophisticated control, whether you’re headed to the show pen or the back
country. And when you run into a training problem, you’ll have a back-to-basics
plan to rely on.

John uses the "go forward" cue, tapping Preacher's hip, to tell him to walk or to speed up.
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The Plan •
We work
with just one part of the horse at a time, such as the
horse’s hip or
nose.
•
We teach the horse a rein language that says when there’s
pressure on
the rein, we want the horse to move one part of his body.
When he moves it in
the direction we want, we release the
rein.
•
The bridle is the main means of communicating with the
horse. Even
though you might ordinarily use body language, voice cues
or weight changes,
when you really need control, you’ll use the bridle.
So that’s what we want to
get our horse more responsive to.
This lesson will be fun, because you’ll find that by the
time you’re
ready to do a step, the horse will already be doing it correctly
about
50% of the time. Imagine how much fun spelling would have been if you
already knew half of the words.
We’re going to teach this lesson on the ground first,
because it’s
easiest for the trainer (you) to learn it that way. After you’ve
seen
how the horse responds and where his legs move with each cue, you’ll be
able to translate that to a feel from the saddle.

You don’t have to point to the hip, but mentally focus on it, whether you’re in the saddle or on the ground.
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First, the
TailStart out by putting a snaffle
bit on your horse. Be sure
that your reins are at least a medium
length. Short, roping reins won’t work
easily. If you don’t have long
reins, attach a lead rope to the bit ring.
Stand facing the horse’s shoulder, with your left hand on
the left
rein just a few inches from the bit. Hold a stiff whip (about 36 inches
long) in your right hand.
Raise the whip until
you can rest it on your horse’s left hip. Look
at the hip and begin tapping it
lightly. Keep tapping until he begins
to walk forward, then immediately stop
tapping and let your right arm
relax.
If the horse doesn’t move forward after about six taps,
then tap
harder. Keep tapping until he moves a step forward. When he does, go
along with him without pulling on the rein unless he tries to pull away
from
you.
When the horse is walking along well (usually about five
or six
strides), allow him to walk slightly past you, then look at his tail
and
pull the left rein toward his left hip. The moment he takes a big
step
to the
right — that is, his tail is moving away from you
— release the
rein. It will
take a few times for you to feel
the timing. The sooner
you release when the
horse is actually
making a big step over, the
quicker the horse will learn the
lesson.

Moving the tail, also known as “hips over,” ends each mini-lesson.
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At first, the horse may pull against your rein, or he may
throw his
head. Ignore that and concentrate on the tail. As soon as the horse
figures out that you’re talking to his tail, he’ll relax his head.
When the tail moves
away from you, the horse will probably stop.
That’s fine. Pet him. Begin the
exercise again.
After you’ve done this five times, then switch sides.
You’ll have to
teach the “go forward” cue from the right side, since the horse
won’t
automatically know it. Take your time and do one thing at a time.
Position yourself and look at the horse’s right hip. Tap
the hip
with the whip in your left hand. After a few steps, look at his tail.
Pull the right rein back toward his tail. The moment the tail moves
away from
you, release the rein. The horse will have turned almost 90
degrees to face you.
Do the exercise five times from this side.

The horse should “give” his nose in
response to the rein, as if he’s asking John, “What’s next?”
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Preacher gave his nose. John released the rein and now he’s asking Preacher to keep moving forward and to drop his head.
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Now that you have the idea, practice this for about 20
minutes.
You’ll be amazed at the difference in your horse. Go forward, look at
the tail, move the tail, release the rein. Change sides. Do
the same
from the
right, and then change sides.
You’re going to change sides almost every time. Mix it up
just a
little, though, so that the horse is responding to your cues, not the
pattern.
Be sure that you’re
actually using the rein to get the horse to
turn. Sometimes horses learn the
pattern and start the turn
from your
body language. That’s not what we want. If
the horse
begins turning on
his own, then tell him to go forward again. When
he’s going forward
consistently, use the rein to tell his tail
to move away from
you.
We’re going to teach a variety of movements in response to
a rein
cue, and each sequence will end with moving the tail.
Next, the
Nose
A horse can turn in two manners. One is with his
whole
body stiff, and the other is with a nice bend. Horses often start
out stiff, but
by the time they’ve practiced the exercise, their body
begins to bend. We’re now
going to get a little more specific and ask
the horse to turn his nose toward
us, even though he may be doing that
about half of the time.
Ask the horse to go forward. Instead of looking at the
tail, look at
the horse’s nose. Pull the rein lightly and hold steady, even
pressure
on it until the horse turns his nose toward you. It will be as if he
looked at you to say, “Now what?” Release the rein. He doesn’t have to
turn his
head fully — just a few inches — but it has to be a definite
move. Be sure that
you keep the horse walking forward, not stepping
into you.
When the horse “gives” with his nose, release the rein.
Immediately
pick up the rein and ask the tail to move away from you, as you did
before. When it does, release the rein and pet the horse. Change
sides.
When you feel that the horse is consistently giving you
his nose
when you ask from each side, then you’re ready for the next step.
Then the
Ear
We speak about the horse’s ear as a way of talking
about
the elevation of the horse’s head. When you began this exercise,
the horse’s
head was probably higher than it is now. That’s to be
expected.
The formula that we’ve been using is to put pressure on
the rein in
order to tell the horse we want him to move a part of his body. When
he
moves the right part in the right direction, we release the rein.
We can use the same
language to ask him to move any part of his
body. Even though it will seem like
we’re using the same cue to mean
different things, the horse is able to figure
out the difference. The
important thing is to think about what you want the
horse to do, to
look at the tail (or the nose, ear, etc.) when you use the rein
and to
release the rein the moment the horse guesses the correct
answer.
We can ask our horse to put his head at any elevation we
want, but
for this exercise, we want the ear about at the same level as the
saddle horn.
•
Ask
the horse to walk, as before.
•
Pick
up the rein. Ask the nose to look toward
you. When it does, release the rein.
•
Pick
up the left rein again and look at the left ear. When the
horse’s head (ear)
goes down (usually as the horse turns his nose to
the left), release the rein.
If the horse raises his head, keep holding
the rein until he drops his head
about a half-inch, and then release
the rein.
•
Look
at the hip. Pick up the rein and
ask the tail to move away from you. When it
does, release the rein and
pet the horse.
If your horse’s head was too low, use the same system to
ask the
head to come up. Hold the rein until he raises his head slightly.
Can you see that we’re
adding things into the pattern? We begin by
asking the horse to walk forward,
and we end each segment by asking him
to move his tail away from us. Each
movement in between sets the horse
up to do the next one correctly. We want him
to learn each cue, though,
not just the pattern, so you have to do one thing at
a time and pay
close attention so that you can release on
time.

John’s holding the rein, waiting for Preacher to relax the long muscle in his neck. It’s a subtle movement, and sometimes easier to feel than see.
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Though Preacher’s head is just a little lower than ideal, the long muscle in his neck relaxed, so John released the rein.
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A Subtle
Change
As you continue
working through this
lesson, the horse will get more and more relaxed. In fact,
you’ll
realize why you needed a specific “go forward” cue, to
tell him to get
moving.
Up until now, we’ve
asked a particular part of the horse to move.
Now we’re going to focus on the
long muscle in the horse’s
neck, but we
want to see or feel it relax. And like
the other
steps in this lesson
plan, the horse will already be relaxing it 50%
of the time before you
focus on it.
Imagine you were shaking hands with someone. You’d easily
be able to
feel if the other person’s arm was relaxed or tense. As the horse
gives
you his nose the second time, pretend that he was
shaking hands with you.
There will be a moment where his neck is tense,
then it relaxes. That
relaxation
is what you want to
reward.
It’s subtle, and the horse may be automatically doing it.
If you
don’t see any change, but you don’t feel any stiffness or tension in
his
neck, then release. Move the tail and release to finish the
exercise.
Switch
sides.
Here are the steps for this part of the lesson:
•
Ask the
horse to walk, as before.
•
Ask
the nose to look
toward you. When it
does, release the rein.
•
Check the elevation of the
horse’s head. If it’s where you want it, then
go on to the
next step.
If not, then ask him to drop his head.
•
Pick up the rein again, focusing on the long muscle on the
horse’s
neck.
When you see it relax (usually as the horse
turns his nose toward
you), release
the rein.
•
Move the tail, then release the rein.
From the
Saddle
Now that you have the exercise down pat from the
ground,
you’ll easily be able to translate it to riding. After
all,
it’s the same horse
and the same rein. The only
difference is that your
legs will tell him to go
forward,
instead of the whip signal. Be
definite in your movements, but not
hurried or aggressive.
Ride the horse forward. Pick up the left rein and think
about the
horse’s hindquarters moving to the right. Hold steady, even pressure
on
the left rein until you feel the horse’s rear end shift
over. Release the
rein. Ride him forward and do the same thing with the
right rein.
Be sure that you don’t use leg cues to tell the horse to
turn. We’re
conditioning the horse to rein cues only right now.
When the horse is “giving” with his hindquarters well,
then turn
your attention to his nose. Ride forward and pick up the left rein.
When the horse turns his nose to the left, release the rein.
Immediately pick up
the left rein and move the hips over.
Release the
rein. Practice from both
sides.
Ride forward and pick
up the left rein. Ask the nose to give to the
left, as when you were on the
ground. Release the rein. Pick
up the
left rein again and hold pressure on it
until you see
the tip of the
horse’s left ear go down, then release the rein.
Pick it up and again
move the tail over. Release and change
sides.
As you repeat this
exercise, notice when the long muscle in the
horse’s neck will relax. When
that’s happening at least 50% of
the
time, then it’s time to ask for it to
happen. Ride forward
and ask for
the nose. Release. Then the ear and release.
Then
pick up the rein
again and release it the moment you see the long
muscle relax. Move the
tail and release the rein.

John has released the rein, rewarding Preacher. When the horse is in good position, leave the reins alone.
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Practical
ApplicationSo now that you have
this drill
down pat, what can you do with it? You can use the whole exercise or
pieces of it, depending on your situation.
Having trouble turning your horse? Forget about steering
his nose.
Point his tail where you don’t want to go, and he’ll automatically be
aimed in the correct direction.
What about the horse who’s upset because his buddy is
leaving? Work
him through the entire exercise. It will help him to calm down and
give
you control over each part of his body at the same
time.
Is your horse balking about going out of the driveway or
trying to
rear? Move his tail, release. Work through the exercise, getting his
head at the elevation you want. That will keep his front feet
on the
ground.
Or maybe your horse is
just a little frisky heading out on the trail
or when another horse enters the
arena. No problem.
Move his
hips, ask
his nose to give, then drop his head, then
relax his
neck, move his
hips, and so forth. You’ll
have him looking like a show
ring winner in
no time.