
When working a gate, start with your horse parallel to it, reaching your gate leg toward the gate and holding the off leg on the horse.
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If you and your horse head for the trail, the two of you must be prepared for
obstacles, both natural and man-made. You can ride around some of them, but when
you encounter a gate, you have to know how to work it, dismount and open it from
the ground, or give up and turn around.
Working a gate from horseback is usually the best option for you, but what
about for your horse? If you haven’t taught him how to partner with you to get
through it, a gate can appear to be as big a bogeyman to your horse as anything
that has ever spooked him in your travels.
Put yourself in your horse’s place. He may have docilely followed you on the
ground through any number of gates. But now you’re asking him to help move this
contraption. He sees something that could swing into him and attack him. Or it
might swing away from him and then he’s expected not only to follow it, but to
turn and face the enemy.
Your job is to prove to your horse that a gate poses no threat. The place to
do that isn’t on the trail, though. You need to train your horse how to move
through gates in a more controlled environment, where you can show him the
process, one step at a time. That way he’ll know what to expect, allowing you to
proceed safely and quietly, without incident.
Judy Bonham coaches adults and youths in many horse show disciplines,
including trail classes. She is an American Quarter Horse Association world
champion in trail and has trained several others to world titles. Bonham built
her own facility and barn in Norco, California, from where she trains.
Gates play a major role in almost any trail course. While working a gate on
the trail doesn’t require the precision needed for a judge in the show ring, the
principles remain the same.
"The exercises that you do to teach a show horse are going to come into play
out on the trail," Bonham says. In fact, Bonham’s former show horses often make
excellent trail horses because they already know how to maneuver through gates
and other obstacles.
If you have a former show horse that already has this training, great. But
you don’t need a horse with that experience. You can teach a horse to work a
gate by breaking down the process into a sequence of smaller maneuvers. Give him
the foundation that he needs, and before you know it, you and your horse will
proceed through gates like pros.

Here Judy exaggerates the incorrect way to reach for a gate latch. Don’t lean too far over and let your off leg ride up and away from the horse.
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The PreparationYou wouldn’t jump into an algebra class without first learning to add,
subtract, multiply and divide. Don’t ask your horse to do what amounts
to the
same thing. He needs to know the basics before you ask him for a
more advanced
maneuver such as working a gate. It will help his
confidence level and make the
learning easier and therefore more
enjoyable for both of you.
"First they have to learn to stop, back up and sidepass," Bonham says,
"because they do all of those maneuvers in working a gate."
You’ll also want to sack out your horse so that he is comfortable with you
moving many things around his entire body. Bonham pays particular
attention to
working over the top of the horse.
"Sometimes they’re afraid of you working over the top of them," she explains.
"With my 2-year-olds, I will get on my mounting block and stand over
the top of
them, moving around to get them used to that. Many times
I’ll pony them
also."
By riding a more experienced horse and ponying the young horse at her side,
Bonham can run a hand over the ponied horse’s head and neck, getting
him used to
the experience.
You should also get your horse used to you shifting your weight in the
saddle. When you unlatch a gate, you’re probably going to have to lean
down to
reach the latch, changing the balance of your seat. A horse
feels most
comfortable when you are balanced on his back. If you become
unbalanced, he will
often move to center himself under you.
Spend some time bending over to one side and the other without a gate so that
your horse will more readily accept it when you begin working with the
gate.
Get Used to the Gate
With your basics in place, you’re ready to introduce your horse to the gate.
Choose a gate that will be easy for you to open and close. You can
tackle the
more difficult ones after your horse accepts the idea of you
opening a gate from
his back.
Here’s where trail-class obstacles can be handy. Bonham has several
standalone gates that she can place in the middle of her arena. She can
ask a
horse to approach the gate from any direction and desensitize him
to the big,
scary object.
While a standalone gate has advantages, you don’t need one to introduce your
horse to the gate. Above all, choose a gate that’s as safe as possible,
even if
it means taking your horse to a nearby friend’s place. It also
helps if the gate
easily swings in both directions. Not all gates you
encounter on the trail will
be movable in both directions, so you’ll
want to teach your horse both the push
and the pull maneuvers.
You’ll also want a gate that’s big enough for the horse to easily move
through it, but not so big that it’s unwieldy for you. Bonham points
out that
while a bigger gate might seem easier because there
is more
room for a horse to
move through, the weight of a
larger gate means
it’s easier for you to lose
control of it.
It’s important for you to
have control of the gate in these early
stages because you don’t want
your horse’s first experiences
to include the gate
banging into his
hindquarters and scaring
him.
Walk your horse up to the gate on a loose rein and let him look it over.
"I try to relax them and pet them at the gate," Bonham says. "Instead of
forcing them to stand there very long, I’ll remove them from the gate
and go
work on something else for a while. Move them around a
little
bit and then bring
them back. Let them stand there and
find out that
when they’re standing there,
they can stand
relaxed. This is their
relaxing place, while away from the gate
is where they work."
Working the Gate
Bonham first teaches pushing the gate. She says that it’s easier for both
horse and rider because of the forward motion through the gate instead
of having
to back up while pulling the gate toward you.
"When you’re pulling a gate toward you, you’re pulling it into the horse,"
she says. "That could potentially scare the horse more than pushing the
gate
away from you."
Walk your horse up to the side of the gate or sidepass him to it so that he
is parallel with the gate. "If you approach it directly, the horse’s
head will
be facing the gate and you won’t be able to work
it," Bonham
explains. "You work
a gate from the side. You
can’t reach over a
horse’s head and reach the
latch."
Once you and your horse are in position, reach down to unlatch the gate. This
will unbalance your seat somewhat, which is
where
your earlier
preparation on
shifting
your weight will
pay dividends. Still,
Bonham
advises
that there is a
right way and a wrong way to
lean for
the
latch.
Use your legs to keep your body as centered as possible while you reach for
the latch with the hand closest to the gate. Bonham recommends keeping
your off
leg (the leg farthest from the gate) on your horse,
not
letting it ride up and
outward, which would tip
your
balance too far
toward the gate. Keep your gate
leg away from
the horse.

Especially with a larger gate, it’s important to keep your hand in the middle of the top rail, which gives you better control over the gate as you open it.
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"It’s very important to remember that the gate leg needs to reach toward the
gate and the off leg needs to hold the horse," Bonham says. She
demonstrates
both the correct and incorrect position
above.
Practice this until your horse will stand still while you unlatch the gate.
Keep in mind that you don’t have to go any further with the lesson.
Going
through the gate and latching it can wait for another
day. It’s
better to end on
a good note instead of
taking that
extra step, which
might frustrate both you
and your horse.
Next, move your hand from the latch to the top of the gate because this is
how you will control the gate’s swing.
"Slide your hand down to the middle of the top rail of the gate so that you
have more control of it," Bonham says.
Push the gate open and ask your horse to move his hips over, away from the
gate, which will position him to go through it. You’re in
effect
asking him
for a turn on the forehand. In this way,
he can
walk through
the gate without
his hips banging
on either side
of the gate.
Then ask him to move forward through the gate. Keep your hand on the gate so
that you can keep the gate open and away from his body.
"If you give the horse a place to go, he’s going to go willingly," Bonham
says.
As your horse walks through the gate, slide your hand from the middle of the
top rail back toward the end of the gate. You want to make sure that
you keep
the gate open while your horse’s hindquarters clear
the
gate.
"If your horse gets nervous, just let go of the gate and walk through,"
Bonham says.
Once your horse walks through the gate, ask for another hips over. This will
bring his hindquarters away from the gate opening and bring him
parallel to the
open gate. Slowly swing the gate closed while
asking
your horse to sidepass
toward the gate. Then
you’ll be
able to latch
it.

Left: Judy shows the gate to her young Quarter Horse filly Graceful Potential, petting her neck and getting her to relax. Right: As she reaches for the gate latch, Judy pays attention to how Graceful Potential is handling the new situation.
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After you teach your horse to go through the gate with the push maneuver,
you’ll want to teach him to do it while you pull the gate toward you.
This
requires your horse to move more before you ask him to go
through
the gate.
Once you unlatch the gate and move your hand to the top rail, ask your horse
to back up a step or two while you move your hand down to the middle of
the
rail. Ask for a sidepass away from the
gate while
you pull
the gate
toward you.
Ask
your horse to move
his hips away from
the gate—just as
with the push,
essentially another turn on
the forehand—until he can
face the opening.
As your horse goes through, you’ll have to pull the gate after you. Ask him
to back up while you slide your hand back along the gate’s rail toward
the
latch.
Above all, Bonham advises to keep the training sessions fairly short. "Don’t
just drill and drill and drill," she says. "We want them happy to do
their
job."
If you take your horse through a gate step by step, he will be happy going
through it. Once he’s mastered the technique, think of how much farther
your
trail rides can expand.

Left: Judy asks her filly to back up as she moves her hand to the middle of the fence, getting ready to push it open. Right: Judy pushes the gate open and asks Graceful Potential to walk through, taking care that the gate doesn’t bang the filly’s hindquarters.
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Open & Shut DecisionsWhile you may encounter all types of gates on the trail, some gates are
easier to work than others. If you’re installing a gate on your own property,
Judy Bonham recommends the flexibility of a gate that works in both
directions.
"I build all my gates to go both directions so that I can choose which way to
work it," she says.
She also pays close attention to the safety of the latches. She prefers a
latch that is flush with the edge of the gate in the open position.
"It’s very important that the latch be flush with the gate before you work
it," she says. "You don’t want it to catch in your horse’s girth."
Gates on trails are often latched with a length of chain and a snap. Bonham
advises examining these latches because sometimes the chains will be permanently
attached to one side of the gate, while others will simply be a loose piece of
chain wound around both ends.
"I’ll often put those around my saddle horn while I work the gate out on the
trail," Bonham says. "You have to be careful that you don’t drop it while you’re
working the gate. Then you can go through the gate and tie it back up."
Safe, Simple Passage
• Your job is to show your horse that the gate is no threat.
• You should be able to reach around in all directions toward neck, ears,
sides and tail from the saddle before you begin to work gates.
• Make sure your horse is completely relaxed with you shifting your weight
and body position in the saddle.
• To open and close gates, you’ll need to teach your horse both the push and
pull methods.
• Your horse should be skilled in moving forward, backward, and sideways, one
controlled step
at a time.
• Your horse should stop and stand when asked.
Gate Etiquette on the TrailOnce you teach your horse to work a gate, you’ll want to put that new
knowledge to use on the trail. When you and your friends go out for a ride, keep
proper gate etiquette in mind so that you’re polite not only to the others in
your group, but to the land owners.
You may encounter gates on public and private property. When you do, remember
the #1 rule: Leave the gate as you found it, whether it’s open or closed.
Obviously, a closed gate may mean that the land owner is keeping livestock in.
However, if the gate has been left open, don’t assume that you’re doing the
owner a favor by closing it. He may have a very good reason for keeping it open.
Also, obey any gate closures and regulatory signs.
If you and your horse can open and close a gate without you dismounting, you
can provide a useful service to your group. It’s best to dismount, though, when
encountering a wire fence.
Russell True, owner of the White Stallion Ranch, a guest ranch in Tucson,
Arizona, requires his wranglers to dismount at any wire gate.
"We have that rule for the safety of the horses," True says. "We tell our
wranglers to dismount and pull the gate all the way back so that the group can
go through easily. There are a lot of gates that are just barbed wire strung
together with a post at the end, and we don’t want the horses anywhere near
that."
White Horse Ranch has rides for people of all ability levels. The wranglers
must look out for the people and horses as well as guiding the ride, so they
will dismount and open the gate on foot if they see any difficulty. Sometimes
they are riding an inexperienced horse, and True recommends that they or any
rider dismount if they feel it would be better for the group’s safety.
It’s also polite—and safer—to hold the horse of the person who is opening the
gate on foot. That way the person on foot can concentrate on opening the gate
and letting people through without having to worry about his horse. Be sure that
the horse is comfortable being held while you are mounted. If he isn’t, then a
second person from your group should dismount and hold both horses.
"We want the gate to swing in the direction that we’re going," True says.
"Our wranglers will push the gate away from them if they have the choice. Again,
it’s a safety issue. We don’t want anyone to catch a stirrup on the gate." True
said that his wranglers will usually dismount if the gate only swings toward
them simply as a safety precaution, even though they and their horses are adept
at both the push and pull methods of working a gate.
If someone in your group dismounts to open a gate, be sure all the riders go
through, clear the gate with room to spare, and then wait for him to latch the
gate and mount his horse. Horses in a group can be difficult to mount if they
see their buddies heading down the trail without them. And if you’re holding the
horse of the person opening the gate, take his horse through the gate so that he
doesn’t have to do it himself.
When you’re working a gate in a group, whether on horseback or on foot,
handle the gate slowly and quietly. Not every horse will have undergone the
training that you’ve given your horse around gates, so some of them may be
nervous or easily spooked. Let the gate person know if you’re riding a horse
without a lot experience walking through gates.
A gate is like any other obstacle you may encounter on the trail. It has the
potential to scare a horse, so the more time you take paying attention to the
safety of the group, the better chance you’ll have of a trouble-free and
pleasant ride.