Flex for Control
Q: In the March/April ’05 issue ("Weanling Work"), you referred to lateral flexion. I’d like to know more what you mean by lateral flexion, and why it’s important in a trail horse. Also, how do I teach it to my 17-year-old Arabian gelding? Will he be able to flex as well — or at all — at his age?

Name withheld by request
Red Bluff, California

A: Lateral flexion (sometimes called doubling back) simply means side-to-side neck flexibility — that is, the ability to bend on either side between the poll and withers. Flexibility — and teaching your trail horse to bend his neck to the side on cue — will give you more control.

Horses of any age can learn to flex — I just taught a 16-year-old horse lateral flexion. But you might need to work longer with your aged horse than you would a younger one, and patiently wait for him to give you the correct response.

Before you start any new training program, have your veterinarian give your horse a thorough examination, including dental and soundness exams, and promptly address any problem. Continue to ride and train only if your horse gets a clean bill of health.

Here, I’ll explain more about the importance of lateral flexion; then I’ll explain how to teach your horse to flex while you’re on the ground.

Why Flex?
You’ll have more overall control of a supple, flexible horse than you have over a stiff, rigid one. This is because your flexible horse will physically be able to better respond to your cues. Also, when you teach him to flex in response to your cues, you gain control of his nose and neck. (The other three body parts you need to control are his shoulder, rib cage, and hindquarters, which we’ll discuss in future issues.) Such control is extremely important, because your horse is bigger and stronger than you are.

Lateral flexion also helps you execute the one-rein stop. If you’re on a trail ride and your horse spooks and bolts, he might not respond when you apply direct, rearward pressure on the reins. A stiff horse might put his nose straight in the air and continue on.

However, a horse that’s learned lateral flexion will likely respond to a one-rein stop. In this maneuver, you’ll slide one hand down the rein, bring your horse’s nose into his shoulder, and pull him into a tight circle. (For details on teaching lateral flexion under saddle and teaching the one-rein stop, see "Spook Control," On-Trail Training, January/February ’05.)

You can also use lateral flexion to head off a problem. If you’re on the trail, and you sense your horse is getting ready to buck, rear, or bolt, bend his neck to the side or even circle him to stay in control and to keep his mind on you.

Step-by-Step Technique
Your goal is to bring your horse’s nose to the side in each direction far enough to touch the shoulder. This will take time and patience. You’ll start with just a small bend, beginning with his left shoulder. Here’s a step-by-step technique.

Step 1. Outfit your horse in a halter and lead rope, and lead him to an enclosed area with good footing away from distractions, such as a round pen or arena corner.

Step 2. Stand on your horse’s left side, parallel to his ribcage, holding the coiled lead rope in your left hand.

Step 3. Place your right hand on your horse’s left hip and simultaneously apply light, lateral lead rope pressure to bring your horse’s nose toward his left shoulder. (If he resists don’t jerk on the lead rope. Apply a bit more steady pressure on the lead rope, if needed.) Note that if your horse moves his hind end during this step, that’s fine. But if you’d rather he keep his hind end still, position his right side along a safe fence or rail.

Step 4. As soon as your horse gives to the lead rope pressure — even if it’s only a half-inch — and relaxes, release the lead-rope pressure to reward him. Give him a soft pat on his shoulder, and praise him in a gentle voice.

Step 5. Repeat the bend cue several more times. Your horse will likely bring his nose farther toward his shoulder each time.

Step 6. After your horse learns to flex well to the left, teach him lateral flexion to the right. You need to teach him to flex on both sides of his body so that you’ll have control on both sides of his body.

Be Patient
As you teach your aged horse lateral flexion — or any new maneuver — be patient with him as he goes through the learning process. If he doesn’t immediately respond to your cues, it’s most likely because he simply doesn’t understand what you’re trying to teach him. Allow him to make mistakes. Go back to the point where he did respond, and show him again. Be patient, gentle, and kind.

Once your horse understands your cues, give him lots of praise, and end the session on a positive note. Then he’ll remember the positive aspects of training, which leads to a positive mental attitude. A good attitude, in turn, leads to an increased capacity to learn.

Here, trainer J.F. Sheppard establishes speed control at the walk with light rein pressure and body language. Work to establish speed control in every gait.

Speed Control
Q: I need your advice regarding my riding mare, Lady. One problem has been very troublesome for me, as it takes a lot of the pleasure away from our rides. She doesn’t want to stay in the speed or gait that I tell her — she continues to speed up. How can I get her to listen?

Judy Fraughton
Lazy Sun Ranch
Eagle Point, Oregon

A: First, understand that your mare is both a prey and a herd animal. Whenever you’re with her, you make up a herd of two. Become herd leader, and look at her as your student. You have to build a mutual bond of trust and respect; she has to allow you to be in the leadership position.

It’s all about control. Teach your mare that you’re in control in every area, on the ground and in the saddle. When you’re in control, your problem with her speed will be solved. Following are the steps to take to achieve this goal. You’ll start by building a strong foundation on the ground, then you’ll carry over this training to under-saddle work.

As you work, be consistent; horses learn through repetition. The more you work with your mare, the deeper the bond will be. Work with her four times in a row per week, or twice each day for two days in a row (morning and afternoon). End each session on a positive note. And be patient; patience is key in training a horse.

If you have trouble with any of these exercises, consult a certified riding instructor or reputable trainer. Don’t attempt anything that would be unsafe. Also, understand that every horse is an individual; no one method works on all horses.

Step 1: Work on Flexion
First, outfit your mare in a lead rope and halter, and practice the lateral flexion exercises I described in the May/June ’06 issue. Also use lateral flexion to move her hindquarters away from pressure. You’ll have more mind and body control over your mare when she’s flexible; you have no real control over a stiff horse. Using these exercises, you’ll teach your mare to bend between the poll and withers, bend her rib cage, and soften at the poll on cue.

Step 2: Teach Voice Cues
Once your mare is relaxed and supple, teach her to change gaits on the longe line in each direction. Outfit her in a halter and 20-foot longe line. Take up slack by folding the line back on itself multiple times. That way, if your mare bolts, the slack will play out and you won’t catch your hand in the line. Carry a longe whip.

Walk your mare to an enclosed area with good footing. Begin with a circle to the right: Hold the folded-up longe line in your right hand (your lead hand), and hold the longe whip in your left hand (your off hand). Send her out on a circle by leading her to the right, giving her a walk-forward cue (see below), and letting out slack in the longe line. To reverse direction, halt your mare (see next page), and bring her toward you, folding the longe line as you go. Place the longe line in your left hand and the whip in your right hand, and send her out on a circle to the left.

Teach verbal speed-up cues. Ask your mare to walk forward with one high-pitched cluck; ask for the jog with six-to-eight quick, high-pitched clucks. (Note: Never ask her for a gait change until she’s made at least one complete circle in the gait that you just asked her for. This will help keep her from being confused.) Ask for the slow lope with a kiss. Ask her to speed at the lope by kissing more than once. To reinforce your verbal speed-up cues, crack the longe whip behind her hind feet without making contact. The sound will reinforce her focus on you and will urge her to speed up. Repeat these speed-up cues until your mare understands them. She’ll then begin to make smooth gait changes on your verbal cues, which will carry over to your under-saddle work.

Teach verbal slow-down cues. Now, teach your mare the cues to slow down. At the lope, teach her that a cluck six to eight times in a high pitch tone means come down to a jog. To ask for a walk from any faster gait, say "easy." To reinforce your verbal slow-down cues, drop your longe whip on the ground, and place your off hand a few inches in front of your lead hand. Apply even pressure to the longe line. Repeat these slow-down cues until your mare understands them.

Teach the halt cue. To halt your mare, give the verbal cue "whoa!" or "ho!" and apply even more pressure on the longe line, as above.

Step 3: Saddle Up
For under-saddle work, outfit your mare in a good-fitting saddle and a bridle with either leather split reins or a one-piece loop rein. Use a smooth, full-cheek snaffle bit, or an O-ring or a D-ring snaffle. Make sure it’s a true snaffle bit, with no shanks. With a true snaffle, you can apply lateral and vertical pressure without causing your mare pain or discomfort. (But be sure not to jerk on the reins.)

Work on lateral-flexion. Reinforce the lateral flexion exercises you did on the ground. Work on both sides, the halt, and the backup, all on your cues.

Cue for gaits. Ask your mare for forward motion at a walk: Squeeze lightly with your calves while simultaneously giving one high-pitched cluck, just as you did on the longe line. Avoid applying any bit pressure. Stay relaxed. For the jog, squeeze lightly with your calves while simultaneously giving the same verbal cue you used on the ground. For the lope, kiss once. (Note that I’ll cover leads in a future issue.) With all her ground training, your mare should follow your cues. It’s a lot of work, but there are no quick fixes to truly training a horse to do well in a positive way.

Step 4: Troubleshoot on Trail
If, after all this arena work, your mare still speeds up on her own, remind her that you’re still in control. If she speeds up, keep her going fast. If she gets tired and wants to slow down, don’t let her. Let her know that speed doesn’t intimidate you. Urge her to go even faster, and don’t let her slow down until you’re ready.

When you decide to slow down, sit deep in the saddle, and bring your legs forward a little to shift your body weight back. Simultaneously, apply light, even pressure on the reins. As soon as your mare slows to the desired speed, release all pressure, and tell her she’s a good girl. Praise her only when she’s done what you’ve asked her to do.

Trainer J.F. Sheppard (left) and friend Sonny Privette, each in the leadership position with his horse. Establishing a leadership position with your horse leads to on-trail control.

Help for a Herdbound Horse
Q: When I ride my 7-year-old Tennessee Walking Horse gelding with a group of friends on the trail, he tends to pay more attention to the other horses than he does to me. I’ve tried to ride him away from the group a couple of times; each time, he threw a fit and bolted back to the group. What can I do to change this negative behavior?

Pam Levens
Knoxville, Tennessee

A: You’re right to say that this is negative behavior. To correct this behavior, first understand your gelding’s survival instincts. Your horse is a prey animal and a herd animal. Whenever you’re with your horse, you make up a herd of two; you have to become the leader of the herd. Your gelding is deriving his security from the other horses on the trail, not from you.

Also, you’ve allowed your gelding to bolt back to the group, reinforcing his negative behavior. You should be able to guide your gelding to any place that you decide at anytime. You can accomplish this by establishing the leadership position. He’ll then derive his security from you, and will follow your direction without throwing a fit. Here’s how to accomplish this.

On the Ground
Go back to ground work to build a strong foundation and establish your leadership position on the ground. As you work, completely focus on your gelding, and try to maintain his focus on you. If you get his focus on you 90 percent of the time, you’re doing great. If he drifts mentally, correct it immediately with a tug on the lead to bring his focus back to you.

Also, relax. Let him know you’re secure with yourself. He’ll then begin to increase his trust in you and feel more secure with you as his leader. Take charge in a nonabusive way, and project the self-confidence you have in yourself to him. When he senses that you’re self-confident and trustworthy, he’ll allow you to become his leader. Here are a few ground-work exercises you should do with your gelding.

Step 1: Perform lead-line exercises. Outfit your gelding in a halter and lead rope, and lead him to a secure arena with good footing. Work on forward motion at a walk, and practice stopping, backing up, and lateral flexion. (For details, see "Asking for the Backup," September/October ’04; "Flex for Control," May/June ’05, and "Bonding Exercises," January/February ’06.)

Step 2: Longe in both directions. Deepen your leadership position further by longeing your gelding in both directions. (For details, see "Speed Control," September/October ’06.) Tip his nose slightly toward you with his inside eye in direct focus with you. If you see his focus wandering, apply light pressure on the longe line to get his attention back on you. He’s your student, and you’re his teacher. A good teacher doesn’t allow students to goof off in class.

In the Saddle
Once you’ve established the leadership position on the ground, start under-saddle work. Make sure that your gelding does everything under saddle that you’ve taught him to do on the ground.

Step 1: Work on lateral flexion. Get your horse supple and bending well between his poll and the withers. Work on bending his rib cage and moving his hindquarters away from leg pressure. (For details, see "Head Tossing Help," May/June ’06.) By doing these positive maneuvers, you’re teaching your gelding that you’re above him in the pecking order and that you’re a benevolent leader.

Step 2: Establish leadership on trail. Ask a friend to go on a short trail ride with you. Choose someone who’s established the leadership position with her horse and whose horse allows her to be his leader on the trail. Go on a trail where you both know the terrain well. The wider and more level the trail, the better, for training purposes.

Ride alongside your friend for a short while. Then ask your gelding to drop behind your friend’s horse. If he does this willingly, stay there for a short while. Next, cue your gelding to pass your friend’s horse and take the lead. If he does this willingly, stay there for a while, then ride beside your friend again. Repeat this exercise several times. If your gelding is doing well after a half hour or so, go to the next step.

Step 3: Drift off to the side. Slowly drift away from your friend, heading off to the right or left for a short distance. Return to your friend’s horse, then drift away again, going farther and farther each time. If your gelding has accepted you as his leader, he’ll continue to stay relaxed and feel secure.

Troubleshooting tip: If, during any of these exercises, your gelding becomes tense and starts to feel insecure with you as his leader, use direct-rein pressure to bring his nose toward his shoulder. Then bend his rib cage around your inside leg and move his hindquarters around. This will put his focus back on you.

Don’t let your gelding stop and relax until you’re sure that you’ve regained the leadership position. Once you reestablish control, allow him to stand and relax for a couple of minutes. Give him a rub, and praise him. Then continue with your exercises. Leadership means control.

Longeing Basics
Q: In the March ’08 issue, you recommended longeing to get your horse in shape for spring. I tried to longe my 14-year-old grade gelding, but he just doesn’t want to walk out on a longe line, much less trot or lope. He plants himself, then tries to walk away, pulling me with him. If I do manage to pull him back, he turns in toward me.What do you suggest?

Angie Waters
Spokane, Washington

A: Angie, it sounds as though your 14-year-old gelding has been getting away with this negative behavior for quite a while. He’s set in his ways, so you’ll have to be patient while rechooling him. Here, I’ll explain how you can accomplish this goal.

Teach your gelding to longe now, so that he’ll know this skill as you get him into shape next spring. You can also longe him as a warm-up before your trail rides. (Note: As you perform these exercises, always be safe. If you need help, consult a qualified trainer/instructor in your area.)

Step-by-Step Method
Before you begin, have on hand: a smooth-leather or nylon halter, a lead rope, your trail saddle, two long lines (each 20 to 25 feet long), a dressage whip, and a longe line. Find a level work area with good footing; an arena is best.

Step 1. Ask him to go forward. Outfit your gelding in the halter and lead rope. Stand on his left, facing forward, with your shoulder even with his throatlatch. With your right hand, hold the lead rope under his chin. With your left hand, hold the coiled lead-rope slack. Ask him to go forward at a walk by clucking once in a high-pitched tone while applying light, forward pressure on the lead rope and taking a step or two forward.

Step 2. Reinforce your forward-motion cue. If your gelding doesn’t budge, pick up the dressage whip. Switch the lead rope to your left hand, and hold the dressage whip in your right hand, facing downward. Keep enough slack in the lead rope so that you can bring his nose in toward his shoulder, flex him, and move his hindquarters away from you, if he balks or jigs. Repeat Step 1 while lightly tapping him behind his left shoulder with the dressage whip. As soon as he takes a step or two forward, stop him, praise him, and give him a light pat on his neck and shoulder. Let him relax and soak in what he just accomplished.

Step 3. Use a verbal cue only. When your gelding has moved forward on cue a number of times, and relaxes after each time, give him a cluck only as a forward-motion cue. If he doesn’t respond at first, go back to reinforcing your forward-motion cue with the dressage whip. After a while, he should respond to your verbal cue without the whip aid. Important: Use the dressage whip only when you have to, and use it lightly.

Step 4. Ask him to stop. As you teach your gelding the forward-motion cue, also work on the stop. To ask him to stop, stop walking, say "whoa," and apply light, backward pressure on the lead rope. The lead-rope pressure reinforces your verbal cue. As soon as he stops on cue, praise him.

Step 5. Ask him to back up. Now ask your gelding to back up. To do so, cluck several times in a bass tone while applying light, backward lead rope pressure. Important: Don’t ask your gelding to back up more than three or four steps before you stop him and praise him. Otherwise, he might become confused.

Step 6. Introduce long lines. You’ll have greater success teaching your gelding to longe if you start with two lines to keep him on track. To introduce the long lines, first, saddle your gelding. Then attach a long line to each side of his halter, on the side buckle or ring.

Step 7. Longe him to the left. You’ll start by longeing your gelding to the left. Run the outside (right) long line through your saddle’s right stirrup only. Stand several feet away from him, and face his left ribcage. With your left hand, hold the inside long line. Point your hand leftward, and cluck once to ask for a walk.

Step 8. Reinforce the forward cue. If your gelding doesn’t move forward on your cue, ask him to walk, then tap him lightly just above his outside (right) hock with your outside long line. If he still balks, pick up a longe whip, and crack it behind his heels (but don’t make contact) so he knows you mean business.

Step 9. Keep him on track. If your gelding tries to turn toward you or away from you, apply appropriate counter-pressure on the long lines. As soon as he complies, release all pressure.

Step 10. Ask for the trot and lope. When your gelding longes on two long lines at a walk, teach him to longe at the trot and lope. To ask for the trot, cluck in a high-pitched tone six to eight times while tapping just above his outside hock with the long line. For the lope, kiss once, and tap. If he balks at either gait, tap a bit harder, and crack the longe whip to reinforce your cues. Once he understands what each cue means, he should respond to your verbal cue only.

Step 11. Switch to a longe line. When your gelding longes well on two long lines in both directions, switch to the longe line. Use the same cues you used with the long lines to longe him to the left and to the right.

Q: I'm 13 years old and own a 7-year-old Quarter Horse gelding named Louie. My grandmother bought him for me last April. Louie is now in a pasture with five cows. When I first started riding him, I could ride anywhere. Now, when I want to ride in the field, he stands still, then backs up, tosses his head, and tries to turn around. How can I correct this behavior?

Amy Denman
Reedsburg, Wisconsin

A: Amy, you’re smart to realize that Louie is displaying negative and dangerous behavior, and to ask for help. Even though I’ll offer my advice, you must also get help from a qualified trainer or certified riding instructor in your area for hands-on training. Also, ask him or her to make sure your tack fits and that Louie isn’t suffering any physical discomfort.

Here’s what’s happening: Your gelding has decided that he doesn’t want to work for you. To avoid working, he’s using balky behavior to test and intimidate you. If you allow him to get away with this negative behavior, you’re actually training him to continue it.

To stop your gelding’s balky behavior, take him from the field and his cow buddies, and work him four times a week in a round pen or arena. Or at least find level ground with good footing. And be sure to wear a good riding helmet both in the saddle and on the ground.

In-Hand Work
Start with ground work to teach Louie that you’re his leader. Be firm, but gentle. First, perform in-hand work. You’ll need a nylon or leather halter and a six-foot lead rope.

Step 1. Ask him to go forward. Take your gelding to your work area. Stand opposite his left shoulder, facing forward. Cue him to go forward by taking a step forward while applying pressure on the lead and giving a few clucks. When he responds to your go-forward cues, praise him and pat him.

Step 2. Ask him to stop. After you’ve gone forward a few steps, ask your gelding to stop on your cue. Stop, and apply backward pressure on the lead rope while saying "whoa." As soon as he stops, praise and pat him.

Step 3. Ask him to back. From the stop, ask your gelding to back by applying backward pressure on the lead rope while clucking to him. As soon as he backs a few steps, stop him, then praise and pat him.

Step 4. Ask for lateral flexion. Next, ask your gelding for lateral flexion to the right and to the left. To do this, from a stand still, bring his nose in toward each inside shoulder by applying lead-rope pressure. This exercise will flex his neck muscles and lead to more control under saddle.

If your horse is balking under saddle, go back to ground work to teach him the basics. Longeing is an excellent ground exercise to teach your horse that youre his leader. If you can, longe your horse in an enclosed work area with good footing, as trainer J.F. Sheppard demonstrates here.

Stop Balky Behavior
Longeing Work
When your gelding complies with your cues in-hand over several days to a week of work, it’s time to longe him. You’ll need the same halter, plus a 20-foot longe line and a longe whip. While longeing him, wear a helmet, and stay out of his kick zone.

At first, your gelding may buck, kick out, or take off in a full gallop in protest. But once he realizes you won’t give up your training program, the protesting should stop. He’ll see that you’re self-confident and will gradually become a willing student. Stay focused on your gelding, and keep him focused on you. Longe him in both directions in each training session.

Step 1. Longe him to the left. Holding the longe line in your left hand (on a circle to the left, this is your lead hand) and the whip in your right hand (your off hand), send your gelding out on a circle to the left. Cluck once to ask for the walk. If he resists in any way, crack the longe whip behind his heels to let him know that you’re in charge. Keep him at a walk with lead-rope pressure.

Step 2. Keep him on the circle. If your gelding tries to turn toward you, drop the longe whip, and slide your off (right) hand up the longe line about three feet. Then twirl the end of the longe line toward his inside (left) eye. Keep a safe distance away, and be sure you don’t actually hit his eye.

Step 3. Longe him to the right. When your gelding longes to the left without protesting, ask him to stop. With your off hand, apply pressure on the longe line, position yourself slightly in front of his inside (left) shoulder, and say "whoa." As soon as he stops, bring him in to face you, then turn him so he’s facing right. Then hold the longe line in your right hand and the whip in your left hand, and send him out at a walk on a circle to the right.

Step 4. Ask for the trot. Once your gelding is moving forward well on cue in both directions, ask him to trot. To cue the trot, cluck six to eight times. If he balks, crack the longe whip behind his heels. If he speeds up, slow him by applying longe-line pressure. After a few circles, ask him to walk. Then stop him, and praise him.

Step 5. Ask for the lope. Next, ask for the slow lope on cue. From the trot, give a kiss cue, and crack the whip behind his heels. If he balks or speeds into a fast lope or gallop, use the methods I’ve described earlier to keep him in the correct gait. Your goal is to get him into a slow lope using a combination of lead-rope pressure, body language, and whip-crack cues.

Step 6. Practice gait changes. Give your gelding a couple of weeks to learn your cues for walk, trot, lope, and stop. Then ask for a variety of gait changes. Ask him to complete at least one full circle in each gait before you ask him for a different gait.

When Louie is responsive to your cues from the ground, saddle him, take him to your work area, and ask him to circle to the left and right in all gaits. If you still have problems, your trainer/riding instructor can help you.