If you ride in the backcountry or off the main roads you’ll likely encounter wildlife, large and small. You’ll pass most critters without incident, but some encounters can pose a danger to you and/or your horse. Small animals may spook your horse; large animals, especially predators, can be more threatening.

It pays to be prepared. Here, we’ll cover four wildlife categories: (1) snakes/reptiles; (2) small mammals/birds; (3) deer/elk/moose; and (4) bear/mountain lions/wolves/coyotes. We’ll go over the critters’ habits, the potential danger they pose to you and your horse, how to prepare before you leave home, what to do if you encounter them on the trail, and what not to do. We’ll also give you riding-group safety tips and explain how to remove skunk odor from your horse’s haircoat.

Snakes/Reptiles

Most reptiles aren’t dangerous, but their sight and sound can frighten your horse. And, of course, a bite from a poisonous snake, such as a rattlesnake, can inject venom into your or your horse’s bloodstream.

Habits. Most snakes flee when startled, but when shedding or mating, they may strike out at anything that approaches. Rattlesnakes’ striking distances vary.  Sidewinders in the desert Southwest can lunge farther than the smaller prairie rattler. The latter can usually strike about two-thirds of its own length, unless it’s uphill from you — in which case the strike’s momentum will carry it farther.

Snakes are most aggressive when emerging from their dens in early spring (except on cold days when they can’t move very fast), or in early fall, during their mating season. If you ride near a den site in spring, you may stumble onto a large number of snakes in a small area. In August, you’re apt to find snakes in pairs. If you step back from one, you may bump into the other.

Snakes and any other reptiles are most active in warm/hot weather. Being cold-blooded, their body metabolism slows in cool weather, preventing fast movement. In the evening, after sundown, you might see snakes lying on the trail or roadway, soaking in ground warmth. During the heat of the day, they’re more likely to lurk in tall grass, in the shade.

Danger to you/your horse. Your horse may spook, throwing you to the ground. Your horse may suffer injuries due to a spook, spin, and/or bolt. A bite from a poisonous snake can be life-threatening to you. Most rattlesnakes, except for the very largest types, don’t have enough venom to seriously affect your horse, unless he’s bitten on the nose/face. A facial bite will swell, which may close off air passages, causing suffocation. A bite on the leg, by contrast, may create swelling and possible infection, but isn’t life-threatening.

How to prepare. If you’ll be riding in rattler country, pack a snakebite kit, which contains suction bulbs for drawing venom out of a bite wound. Also pack a small container of DMSO gel, which will help prevent excessive swelling and tissue damage. DMSO is especially useful if you’re bitten on the hand or leg, or if your horse is bitten on the nose. 

What to do if encountered. “If you see a snake in the trail, stop, and wait for it to move off,” advises Steve Nadeau, State Large Carnivore Manager of the Idaho Department of Fish and Game. “Don’t walk over it with your horse, or he may get bitten. If the snake doesn’t move, dismount, and prod it with a long stick to encourage it to leave.” Never get within striking range. And be aware there may be more snakes in the area. If your horse is bitten on the nose/face, run cool water over the bite site, then apply DMSO. Slowly proceed home or to your trailer, then call your doctor or veterinarian. (If it’s a life-threatening human emergency, call 911.)

What not to do. Don’t pursue and attempt to kill a fleeing snake; a cornered snake may become aggressive. If you or your horse is bitten, don’t rush home; the increased blood circulation will pump more venom through the body. Don’t slash the bite area with your knife and suck out the venom, as was recommended in the past; this may lead to further tissue trauma or excessive bleeding. And don’t ice the bite site “to localize the poison”; ice can also cause further tissue damage.

Small Mammals/Birds 

Skunks, raccoons, badgers, foxes, jackrabbits, wild turkeys, grouse, and other small animals can frighten your horse if you come upon them unexpectedly, or if they emerge suddenly into your path.

Habits. Many small mammals are somewhat nocturnal, so you’re most apt to see them at dawn or dusk. Most birds roost at night and are active during the day.

Danger to you/your horse. You and/or your horse may suffer injuries due to a spook, spin, and/or bolt. Unlike a larger animal readily seen from a distance, a small animal may suddenly scurry (or fly) right under your horse’s feet. Small animals rarely pose a direct danger, but some (such as skunks, foxes, and raccoons) may carry rabies. Keep your distance if you see an animal wandering in the open during the day, staggering, and moving erratically; it might have rabies, which is transmitted via a bite.

How to prepare. At home, introduce your horse to a wide array of unusual/sudden sights, sounds, and movements on the ground and when mounted. For help, consult a certified riding instructor or reputable clinician or trainer. Put trail miles on your horse. Once you and your horse trust each other, he’ll be more apt to stop and listen to you, rather than spinning or bolting when something startles him.

What to do if encountered. If your horse spooks, relax, and try to keep him calm and in control. If you’re relaxed, your horse will be more apt to relax. He takes his cues from you just as he would any herdmate. Speak soothingly to him, rub his neck, and assure him there’s nothing to fear. If the animal doesn’t flee/fly when it sees you, go around it, giving it a wide berth. Don’t get too close to a skunk to avoid a spray. On a narrow trail, resign yourself to following very slowly behind it or staying put until it returns to the brush.

What not to do. Don’t corner an animal. Don’t try to get a closer look. Even a small creature, such as a fox or badger, may try to attack if it feels threatened.

Deer/Elk/Moose/Antelope

Habits: You’ll likely see deer, elk, moose, and antelope in wide open spaces. Mule deer are generally found in foothills or mountain country, while whitetail deer tend to frequent valley bottoms, along the creeks or rivers, and in brush. Whitetail are adaptable and may even live in the suburbs, feeding in yards and gardens, and on shrubs. Elk are a little more elusive, but readily lose their fear of humans and horses in non-hunting areas. Moose frequent stands of willows, marshlands, and lakes. Antelope prefer open country, and tend to keep their distance.

Danger to you/your horse: Moose can be dangerous, because they’re not afraid of anything. Elk can also pose a threat. Antelope are rarely a problem, because they generally see you at a distance and take off. Deer aren’t very aggressive, though a whitetail doe may occasionally come toward you to protect her fawn. The biggest threat to you and your horse would be a spook, spin, and/or bolt.

How to prepare: In deer country, be alert so you can keep your horse in control if he’s startled. If you’re on a green horse, ride with someone on an experienced horse. Your horse may then take confidence in the other horse’s calmness and settle down more quickly after an encounter. He’ll also be less likely to bolt, since he’ll want to stay with the other horse for security. In moose country, stay alert, and try to avoid the animals. Steer clear of dense stands of willows.

What to do if encountered: “If you run into a moose cow and calf, the cow may be very aggressive and charge at your horse, as will a bull during mating season in the fall,” says Gary Power, retired regional supervisor of the Idaho Department of Fish and Game. “Back off, because these animals will probably hold their ground. Retreat until they move away to where you can safely go around them. On a narrow trail, turn around slowly, and get off to the side. If the animal follows you, get off the trail to give it room to get by you. If the moose or bull elk challenges you and comes toward you, don’t run; a horse cannot outrun these animals. Stand your ground, and make a lot of noise, always giving the animal room to go by you.”

What not to do: If faced with an animal that doesn’t leave, don’t panic (even if your horse is). Don’t leave quickly; your horse may lose his footing in steep country if you allow him to take off when he’s frightened.

Bear/Mountain Lions/Wolves/Coyotes

In some instances, coyotes, wolves, bear, and mountain lions can pose a real danger to you and your horse.

Habits. Most large carnivores are most active at night; you’re more apt to encounter them hunting at dawn and dusk. Most also come back to a kill. Watch for ravens, magpies and other scavenger birds that indicate a carcass in the area, so you can avoid confrontation.

Bear are most aggressive when coming out of their dens in the spring or protecting their cubs. In spring and summer, you’ll encounter bear in berry fields and along the river corridors. As the snow melts, they then move up in elevation along with vegetation growth. In late summer and fall, they’ll be along the creeks where chokecherries are ripening. In late fall, they forage all day long to put on fat for winter.

Mountain lions (also called cougars) aren’t as predictable. They have a fairly tight home territory they defend against other mountain lions, though they make large hunting circles. They often work rugged areas and steep slopes; you’re not as likely to run into them on most trails.   

Wolves may be more fearless, especially in a pack. They hunt in pairs or packs, and often leave their pups in a mountain meadow while they hunt deer and elk. If you encounter wolves in a meadow and they don’t run from you, they likely have pups there, which can cause them to act aggressively.

Coyotes are most aggressive during their mating season (late February) and in summer, when they have pups. At other times, they’ll generally flee when you

approach.

Danger to you/your horse. Often the biggest danger to you is a panicky, uncontrollable horse that may fall off the trail or down a steep mountainside, bolt, buck, or go over backward in his attempt to get away from the scary predator. Rarely will a predator actually attack a horseback rider. Note that if you have a dog with you, a wolf or coyote may lure him away and kill him.

How to prepare. You can carry pepper spray on your belt while riding in bear country, but be careful not to spray your horse by mistake. Better, make enough noise as you ride so that animals will hear you coming and have a chance to leave; most potentially dangerous encounters occur when you suddenly meet a predator close up. Tip: Attach a small tinkle bell to your cinch or girth as a noisemaker.

Horse-camping tip: Most problems with carnivores occur in camp. Keep horse feed, human food, and garbage out of reach, at least 8 to 10 feet off the ground.  

What to do when encountered. If you suddenly meet a bear, cougar or wolf face to face on the trail and the predator doesn’t flee, halt your horse, and try to keep him calm and still. If he’s panicky, and you think you’ll lose control — especially if he’s jumping around on unsafe footing — dismount, and continue to calm him. Then follow these general guidelines:

Avoid eye contact. “If you stare at a bear, cougar, or wolf, you may trigger an aggressive response,” notes Power.

Move off the trail. “If there’s room, get off to the side to enable the animal to get away,” says Power. “Most of the time, predators will leave, if given a chance.  If you meet a predator on a narrow trail where there’s no room to maneuver, back out slowly.

Make noise. If you follow the above and the predator holds its ground, make noise to encourage it to leave you alone, advises Power. Talk loudly, yell (if that won’t spook your horse), and clap your hands.

Here are animal-specific tips:

Bear. “A black bear usually won’t attack a horse, but a grizzly is more unpredictable,” says Nadeau. “If you see a bear in the trail, stop, and let it know you’re human by talking to it. Then it won’t mistake you for a moose and will usually leave. If you find yourself between a mother bear and her cubs, he adds, quietly back away to give her a clear path back to her offspring.

Also, make yourself look big. “Turn your horse sideways, so the bear gets a full view of you and your horse,” says Nadeau. “If you’re into a tight situation with a grizzly, you’re safer on horseback. You appear larger, and the bear is less apt to bother you.” Adds Power: “If you’re on foot, hold your coat over your head, and spread it out.”

Mountain lions. Power says a mountain lion will likely slip away. “It’s almost like they’re an apparition; you see them, and then they’re gone.” If one does stand its ground, slowly and quietly back away, says Power. Nadeau notes that your horse will likely be agitated by the smell of a mountain lion, his natural predator, so focus on keeping him calm.

Wolves. “Horses don’t pay any attention to wolves,” says Nadeau. “A horse might get excited if wolves circled or tried to chase him. But if you stand your ground, most wolves will leave a horseback rider alone.

Horse-camping tip: Keep horses tied in camp. “Wolves typically take down large animals when running; wolves may chase loose horses if they run,” says Nadeau.

Coyote. If you’re on horseback and have no dog along, coyote will tend to leave you alone.

What not to do. Don't try to leave hastily, or the predator may chase you. A mountain lion will often chase a fleeing creature, just as a cat chases a mouse. A pack of wolves may also chase a running animal. Your horse can't outrun a cougar, wolf or bear.