
Author Ann Neville on Ransom, her 3-year-old Tennessee Walking Horse gelding, at St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge. She and her friend Lynda Rehse rode in several of Florida’s state parks over spring break in early March.
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The weather
during my annual early March spring break is often cold in my home state of
Tennessee.
So my south Florida friend, Lynda Rehse, and I decided to
meet in three state parks where we hoped the weather would be perfect. The ideal
time to ride Florida is early spring to avoid heat and
insects, and to enjoy wildflowers and budding trees. Our goal was to ride in the
parks and a national wildlife refuge, plus fill in a few adventures along the
route.
Ready to
Ride
We
trailered our Tennessee Walking Horses from our respective homes on a Friday,
with plans to meet at the Coldwater Recreation Area in the Blackwater River State
Forest near the towns of
Milton and Munson. Coldwater has 72 stalls and 60 paddocks, plus 62 campsites
with full amenities. The 190,000-acre forest occupies the western part of the
Florida
panhandle.
Lynda and
her 6-year-old spotted Walking Horse gelding, Tonto, arrived before I did, with
my 3-year-old palomino Walking Horse gelding, Ransom, in tow. By the time I got
there, Lynda had picked out our campsite and stalls, and was ready to ride. The
forest’s clay and sand trails traverse the largest stand of long leaf pines in
America. There are a number of
sandy-bottom streams in the area; juniper and oak trees dot the forest.
We rode
Saturday and Sunday in the Blackwater. On our last evening, as we were roasting
hot dogs and marshmallows, a former resident of my hometown of Lynnville, Tennessee, pulled into our camp to invite us
to her home for a trail ride and lunch on Monday.
Lindsey
Burns had served as huntsman for the Mell’s Foxhunt in Lynnville prior to
relocating to the edge of Blackwater Forest. She led us on a super ride,
pointing out blueberry bushes, pitcher plants, and a beaver dam. Lunch on her
back deck consisted of 15-bean soup and homemade bread that filled the air with
a wonderful aroma. We hated to say good-bye to Lindsey, but we needed to drive
to the Florida
Caverns State
Park before dark.
Caves,
Camping, and Wildlife
Florida
Caverns is a small, scenic state park located near Mariana. We were the only
people in the equestrian section on Monday evening. Riding is limited, with just
eight miles of riding on the Upper Chipola
trails, but quite beautiful. This is an area of sinkholes, abundant white
lilies, and a swimming hole that’s spring fed and perfectly clear. (No horses
allowed.) You’ll find a visitor’s center and film for your camera, plus tours of
the caverns.
Our next
destination was O’Leno State Park near High Springs. O’Leno is difficult to
access. To get to the equestrian campground, you need to pick up a key and a map
at the main campground, then drive approximately four miles. But once inside,
outstanding horse facilities await. You’ll find spacious barn stalls and
warm-water wash racks — and 30 miles of trails. Again, Lynda and I were the only
inhabitants of the campground. Tonto and Ransom had the barn to
themselves.
We chose to
ride on the 16-mile outer loop that took us by the spot where the river that had
disappeared underground a half-mile away suddenly pops up at the spot labeled
“river rise.” On this ride, we came eye-to-eye with a deer that stood
nonchalantly by the trail, and detoured around an opossum that was “playing
possum” right in our path.

Rehse and Tonto at Blackwater River State Forest.
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Ranching
and Roping We had no
definite destination for Wednesday, but we wanted to head north and west; we
ended up on the Gulf of Mexico. Lynda made a
few calls and lined up accommodations at the Wellborn Quarter Horse ranch in
Wellborn, between Lake City and Live Oak. This was a fun
stopover. We rode the trails on the ranch property, introducing our horses to
longhorn steers, a Miniature Horse, a donkey, and a herd of miniature goats. We
enjoyed putting our horses through the obstacle course and visiting with the
proprietors Andrea and Tom Schomberg.
We wanted
to spend our last two nights near the coast. We were fortunate to arrange stalls
for our horses at the Taylor County Horseman’s Association rodeo arena, thanks
to board members Chris Olson and Ursula Brown. These two ladies graciously
offered to lead us on a trail ride after they got off work that afternoon. On
our way out of the town of Perry, we passed azaleas, dogwoods, and redbuds
in full bloom, then hit the forest trail on the outskirts of
town.
Later,
after bedding down our geldings at the rodeo grounds, we were anxious to try the
local specialty — blue crab claws at Poppa Jim’s. They were delicious, as were
the baked oysters and cheese grits. Then we checked into a local Perry motel,
where the proprietor happily gave us permission to park our horse-trailer rigs
on the lawn.
On Friday,
we scheduled a day at St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge. We toured the
lighthouse and visitor center, then hit the trails. For a late-afternoon meal,
we trailered into the fishing village of St.
Mark’s. There, we enjoyed an open-air restaurant on
pilings as we watched pelicans and river barges.
We ended
our day’s adventure with a walking tour of the nearby San Marcos de Apalache
Historic State Park’s Spanish fort ruins. That evening, we attended a roping
competition at the arena. Our Tennessee Walkers watched wide-eyed as the Quarter
Horses raced by. It seemed that everyone in the county was a roper — youngsters,
men, and women.
Sadly, our
trip ended as we headed home the next morning. The motto of the Florida State Park system sums up what we
experienced: “Florida State Parks...The Real Florida.” Beautiful scenery,
unusual natural features, abundant wildlife, and extremely friendly people of
the “real Florida” made our trip memorable.
Contact
information: Coldwater Recreation Area, (850) 482-9598,
www.florida-outdoors.com/equine.htm; Florida Caverns State
Park, (850) 482-9598,
www.floridastateparks.org/floridacaverns/default.cfm;
O’Leno
State Park, (386) 454-1853,
www.floridastateparks.org/oleno/default.cfm; St.
Marks National Wildlife Refuge, (850) 925-6121,
www.fws.gov/saintmarks;
San Marcos
State Park, (850) 925-6216,
ww.floridastateparks.org/sanmarcos/default.cfm.