
Dave Paup and his family rented a cottage near their riding destination, the Monongahela National Forest in West Virginia. Shown is Janell Paup.
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For several years now, as the mountain foliage begins its
season-ending transition from a humble green to a myriad of autumn colors, my
family has loaded up the horses and traveled south into Appalachia. Just like
the opening lyric from John Denver’s song, Country Roads, I honestly believe the mountains of the Virginias
can truly be described as "almost heaven," especially when highlighted in their
peak fall splendor.
This year, we decided to explore a portion of the nearly
one-million-acre Monongahela National Forest of West Virginia, having ridden in
the George Washington National Forest and Shenandoah National Park regions of
old Virginia the past two seasons. I located a rental cottage near the town of
Glady, situated very close to several mapped trails within the national forest.
Glady Fork Cabins provided us with an adjacent acre of fenced
pasture for the horses. This would allow them to graze a bit and give them
access to plenty of fresh drinking water, all within the confines of a safe,
secure paddock.
Rainy Start
On a rainy October morning, we arrived at Glady Forks and picked
up our cabin key, having enjoyed the scenery during the drive down through the
West Virginia panhandle. I’d purchased a United States Forest Service map and
contacted several ranger districts, but with the enormous amount of riding
possibilities open to us, I took this brief opportunity to chat with cabin owner
Gary Ransbottom about any recommended local trails.
Gary offered to walk with us on the trail leading down to the
river to show us the best place to make the crossing into the national forest.
We happily accepted, and agreed to meet him after we unloaded the horses and
settled into our cabin. After a quick lunch, my dad and I caught two "reluctant
horses" enjoying themselves in the pasture, and rode down to meet Gary at the
water crossing. Unfortunately, within minutes, the clap of thunder rolled across
the mountaintop, and the rain returned with a serious intent on soaking us right
down to our boots.
I gave my young gelding, Hondo, a very brief introduction to the
slope on the riverbank then quickly headed back for the cabin, hopeful to see
brighter skies with the sunrise.
The Allegheny Trail
The following morning, we saddled up the horses and hit the trail
early. It was a blustery day, but thankfully, the rain had finally ended and a
much more seasonable temperature graced the mountain air.

Wayne Paup crossing a creek on the McCray
Trail, off the Allegheny. The area offered scenic ridgeline views.
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We crossed the river and followed the Allegheny Trail north,
paralleling the shoreline for several miles before the trail changed course up a
steep grade along the hillside. After leveling off just long enough to give the
horses a brief respite, the trail then headed back down toward the river to the
turnoff for the eastern branch of the McCray Trail.
This route then took us up a hollow along the creek bed, providing
scenic views of the Frazier and McCray Ridge lines above us. The trail
eventually joined a primitive forest road, allowing us to make another
three-mile loop before returning to McCray Creek.
On our return trip back down to the Allegheny Trail, we noticed
several fresh-cut trees obviously felled by an industrious beaver. Perplexed as
to how this evidence went unnoticed on our trip in, I tied my horse and
scrambled down the hill through rhododendron. As I reached the river, I spotted
the hidden pond created by the beaver dam. I snapped a few photos and climbed
back up the hill to the trail.
We then continued on along the riverbank, making our crossing at
the westward branch of the McCray Trail, continuing on until reaching Glady
Road. This return route required us to ride several miles of hard road — my
least favorite venue. But with little traffic and numerous meadows set beneath
the colorful background of Shavers Mountain, it was still an enjoyable final leg
of our ride.
There’s an interesting grave marker along this road that reads:
"Here lies Peter Shaver~ Killed by Indians 1781~ This Mountain and Shavers Fork
River are named in his honor."
The following morning, as we packed our gear and loaded up the
horses, the entire family agreed this was a wonderful trip with "stellar
accommodations." One that we’ll certainly repeat in years to come, as there are
many more miles of trails yet to explore in the beautiful Monongahela National
Forest of West Virginia.
For more information on trail riding in the Monongahela National
Forest, call (304) 636-1800, or visit www.fs.fed.us/r9/mnf/rec/horse
back_opportunities.html. For more on Glady Fork Cabins, call (877) 636-6574, or
visit www.gladyforkcabins.com.