Mark and Lisa Holtzer crossed remote mountain rivers while exploring the area of Wyoming mapped out by explorer Jim Bridgers more than 100 years ago.

I’ve always been into Western history; last summer, I had a chance to experience a piece of it. Inspired by a book about Jim Bridger—the historical mountain man, trapper, guide, and explorer—my wife, Lisa, and I planned a trip to explore a portion of the country he mapped out more than 100 years ago.

We started by researching the area around Wyoming’s Yellowstone Park. First, we located Bridger Lake on the map, then traced back trails to find an accessible trailhead. We chose the Turpin Meadows trailhead, about 50 miles east of Jackson.

Driving through Jackson was spectacular; the views of the Grand Tetons are just unbelievable. After arriving at Turpin Meadows, we found wonderful facilities, plenty of parking, and a horse-friendly campground. Hitching rails are located at each camping spot, and there are corrals around the trailhead, available on a first-come first-serve basis.

We set up our trailer and settled in for the night. Set-up for us is easy now that we have living quarters in our gooseneck trailer. We’d purchased our trailer stripped and built our living quarters ourselves.

Another World

Early the second morning, we set out on our adventure. We left at 8:30 a.m. and headed north up Buffalo Creek. We rode at a fast pace through a long, rolling valley where the going was easy. Along the way, we took note of side trails and inspected camping spots.

By noon, we’d reached the bottom of Two Ocean Pass, a major branch in the trail that leaves the Buffalo Drainage and crosses into the secluded valley of Pacific and Atlantic Creeks. This is the "Parting of the Waters" that Bridger charted.

We understood the importance of this landmark when we realized a fish could cross the Continental Divide and swim from one ocean to the other. It’s a weird feeling to watch the creek run the opposite way you’re traveling, then, without notice, run with you.

We joined the Atlantic Creek Trail and headed northwest toward Yellowstone Valley. Around 3:30, we found a wonderful camping spot near Joy Creek and set up a base camp for the next four days. Grazing and water were available. Since crossing the pass, it was as though we’d entered another world. Over the next four days we saw only six other people.

Serious Bear Country

The third day, we saddled up and rode into the Yellowstone Valley and through the Yellowstone River, 26 miles from the trailhead. Knowing that we touched waters that most people will never see was awesome.

On the fourth day, we saddled early and headed once more into the Yellowstone Valley, this time to locate and have lunch near the historic Bridger Lake. After a lengthy ride across the valley, we found a breathtaking sight: knee-deep green grass, eagles fishing over the lake, and beautiful mountains surrounding the scene. We stopped and sat at the lake’s edge, within 25 yards of an eagle’s nest where a mother eagle was watching carefully over her chicks. And we were a mere 30 miles from the trailhead as the crow flies.

One note: This is serious bear country! We followed all precautions, which included hanging our panniers in a tree at night. A bear still visited our Joy Creek camp the night before we headed out. Around 2:30 a.m., Mr. Bear decided to check things out. As he rummaged around the tent looking for a treat, we became a little nervous. When we realized that my wife was wearing raspberry-flavored lip balm, we became a lot more nervous. She sank deep into her sleeping bag to cover the scent, but didn’t sleep a wink until daylight. It was a good lesson for us to remember the importance of little details.

The next day, we headed on back to the trailhead at Turpin Meadows. We didn’t want to leave this place of tranquility.

Priceless Experience

This trip is not for the faint of heart or the inexperienced horseman. There aren’t many places in the United States where you can ride 30 miles from your vehicle one direction and still be that far from the nearest road in any direction. You must be prepared to handle the unexpected when dealing with such isolation from civilization.

However, the rewards for making such a trip are grand. Seeing country never seen before, touching the water of remote mountain rivers, and tracing the footsteps of history are opportunities experienced by few.

A new trailer with living quarters: $25,000. Two good mountain horses: $5,000. Experiencing a trip like this with a loved one: priceless!