
“Each autumn, as shorter days and cooler temperatures approach, a familiar sound begins to echo across the fields and forests in Elk County, Pennsylvania,” writes Dave Paup. “It is, of course the bugle from the bull elk.”
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Each autumn, as shorter days and cooler temperatures
approach, a familiar sound begins to echo across the fields and forests in Elk
County, Pennsylvania, near the small township of Benezette. It is, of course,
the bugle of the bull elk. A call of the wild from Penn’s Woods that everyone
should have the opportunity to experience, while seated around the fire ring at
horse camp after a long day in the saddle.
Almost 50 years after the demise of the native species in
1867, elk were reintroduced to the state in 1913, with 50 Rocky Mountain Elk
from Yellowstone released into Clearfield and Clinton Counties. An additional 95
animals were released several years later, and the herd today now numbers near
600, with their primary range comprising about 225 square miles of Cameron and
Elk Counties.
Elk County Riding
The “elk ride” is perhaps the most anticipated trip of the
season for myself and many of my fellow trail companions. It’s usually our last
long weekend adventure into Pennsylvania’s big north woods, and the fresh fall
air is enjoyed by both horse and rider.
During my first few
years of travel to Benezette, I was fortunate to be able to tag along with
friends who knew the area well, and stayed at private camping sites owned by Elk
Foundation volunteer Don “Woody” Wood. Woody also has two organized trail rides
each year (June and September). These three-day rides are great opportunities to
experience and learn a portion of the trail system available in the Benezette
area.
Horses are also welcome at The Big Elk Lick, a private
campground located just outside of town along PA Route 555. There’s also an
outstanding horse trail located in the Elk State Forest, just north of
Benezette. The Thunder Mountain Equestrian Trail is a 26-mile double loop, with
trailhead access along the East Branch of the Hicks Run Rd., approximately 3.75
miles north of PA Route 555.
The trailhead parking area is a day-use facility only, but
you can obtain a free camping permit from the district office for two sites
located along Bell Draft Rd. Both sites provide connecting trails to Thunder
Mountain.
Bring water for your horses, as these are primitive sites.
I’d recommend staying at the north site (west of Bell Draft), which is far less
exposed and provides much more shade for your horses and rig than other
areas.
Summer Scouting
Trip
We made our elk-country base camp in the quiet little town of
Dent’s Run, just seven miles east of Benezette. Parking our rigs at a mountain
camp owned by our friend, Tim Flohr, we picketed the horses in a grove of locust
trees just close enough for us to check up on them during the night by shining a
small flashlight from the trailer door.
Tim doesn’t own horses and had very little prior riding
experience, but jumped at the chance to see the mountains he’d explored so many
times on foot. After a few Saturday tutoring sessions, he accompanied our group
on a late-summer scouting trip, prior to the fall rut. Unfortunately, after two
days of riding, we didn’t encounter any elk. We did spot a large coyote, which
is also a species fairly new to Penn’s Woods, but far less appreciated. On a
positive note, we did discover several new horse trails passing through areas of
forest we’d never explored before.
Waking up to a heavy rain on Sunday morning, we broke camp
and headed for home, hopeful that our return trip in September would offer more
opportunities to view our quarry.
With the designation of trails for horseback riding on State
Game Lands in 2003, there are now approximately 20 miles of marked trails
available on Game Land No. 311, which adjoins the state forest just north of
Benezette. You can access these trails from a parking area at the Winslow Hill
viewing area, as well as a connecting trail from Thunder Mountain.
These trails are closed from the last Saturday in September
to the third Saturday in January, and from the second Saturday in April to the
last Saturday in May (except on Sundays). All routes are clearly posted by
green-triangle markers with illustrations of a mountain bike and horseback
rider.
The opening of the Game Land trails allows riders to access
an additional portion of the elk’s primary range. These trails consist of dirt
roads and narrow paths, through natural forest and reclaimed strip mine planted
in evergreens. There are several challenging trails with steep drop-offs along
the mine spoil banks, which offer great views of the surrounding landscape.
Numerous food plots along these trails also increases the
opportunity to view elk, as well as other wildlife, such as whitetail deer, wild
turkey, and black bear. We’ve also had several close encounters with our state
bird, the Ruffed Grouse, thundering out from the grassy trail.

Unfortunately, after two days of riding, we didn’t encounter any elk,” notes Paup. “On a positive note, we did discover several new horse trails passing through areas of forest we’d never explored before.”
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Great
ExpectationsAs we headed back for horse camp in late
September, we were
filled with great expectations of spotting that
first big bull calling to his
harem of cows. Nothing gets your blood
pumping faster than having an animal
nearly as large as your horse
suddenly appear in the woods along the trail.
To save valuable daylight hours, we made the drive to Dent’s
Run,
arriving at camp after dusk the evening before our scheduled ride, and
headed straight for the parking area at Winslow Hill at daybreak the
following
morning.
We unloaded the horses,
grabbed the saddles and gear, and hit the
trail. It was an unseasonably cold
September morning, and my fingers
tingled as I held the reins. This minor
discomfort would soon be
forgotten, as I noticed the perk in my horse’s ears as
she listened to
something in the distance. It was obvious that the ride on this
day was
about to get much more interesting.
Directing our horses towards the sound of bugling elk, we
located
the first dominant bull, keeping a watchful eye on his group of cows. We
spent the entire morning following area trails, careful not to spook
the elk, a
practice that everyone should follow while enjoying this
incredible spectacle of
nature. By day’s end, we’d spot nearly a dozen
bulls, large and small, watching
several as they sparred with one
another over the cows.
Heading out from camp the following morning, our luck
changed;
although we rode through miles of beautiful forest, we didn’t spot any
more elk. We headed back to the trailers to prepare for our journey
home, more
than satisfied with our weekend adventure.
Pennsylvania’s magnificent elk country is a tremendous
resource,
providing those of us who live and ride in the eastern mountain region
just a small taste of this annual display of nature that our Rocky
Mountain
friends find commonplace.
For more information on
the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation Elk
Country Horseback Trail Ride, call (570)
278-4747, or visit
www.pennsylvaniarmef.org. For Big Elk Lick
information/reservations, call (814)787-4656. For more information on
The
Thunder Mountain Equestrian Trail, call the State Forest District
#13 at (814)
486-3353, or visit
www.dcnr.state.pa.us/forestry. For more on the State Game Lands,
visit
www.pgc.state.pa.us, and click on “State Game Lands.”