A few years ago, while on a trail ride in northwestern Montana, we had the good fortune to meet a charismatic rancher by the name of Wayne Cross. After visiting for a while, he casually mentioned that he’d be rounding up cattle in a few weeks, and that we’d be welcome to join him and his friends on his ranch.

The Cross Ranch is family owned. Cross’ great-grandparents bought acreage in this beautiful section of northwestern Montana in the early 1900s. The responsibility of caring for this 6,000-acre ranch, and the challenge of making a living from it, has fallen on Cross’ broad shoulders.

During summer months, Cross’ cattle graze in the upper elevations along with deer and elk. Ranchers place salt blocks and provide water tanks if water isn’t accessible.

When fall rolls in, riders move out and herd cattle down from the hills. We accepted Cross’ kind invitation to saddle up and join in the fun.

A Hardy Group
We arrived at Cross’ ranch the night before the scheduled roundup with our 11-year-old friend, Jake Rapp, and his mom, Kristi Rapp. As we drove up to the ranch, we could see cowboys silhouetted against a flaming campfire. These long-time friends and neighbors of Cross’ welcomed us warmly.

Out West, ranchers have traditionally helped one another with big seasonal jobs, such as cattle roundups and branding. In northwest Montana, this tradition is alive and well. Friends and neighbors had come from all around to help Cross. One woman, Cheryl Burt, rode her horse from her home on the other side of a small mountain range.

We spent time visiting around the fire, listening to stories that may or may not have been true, but enjoying them all the same.

Early the next morning, we had coffee and breakfast by the fire and listened to what was planned for the day. This was mostly for our benefit. The 20 to 30 folks present knew what to do; they’d been helping with roundups for years.

Drought-Influenced ‘Drive’
We eagerly saddled our horses and headed out. However, our cattle-herding distance was cut short! Because of drought, the amount of graze in the hills had become scarce, thus causing the Black Angus cattle to be exceptionally accommodating: The older steers led the younger ones down to Cross’ holding corrals.

Still, we got to be part of a Western experience. There was the Big Sky backdrop, mountains looming in the distance, and a black mass of slowly moving cattle. Our job was to maintain a perimeter and help guide the herd toward the corrals. However, these cattle didn’t really need our "guiding." They’d spotted the huge hay roll Cross had in his front loader and were happily heading toward him.

The final scene in every cattle roundup involves looking for strays. That’s what we did the next morning. Other groups found a few strays and spotted a herd of elk. One group even glimpsed a mountain lion.

We didn’t find anything except a couple crumbling homesteads to explore. Later, Cross told us that John Bonner, an early Montana governor, had lived in one of these cabins when he was a little boy.

Every fall, friends and neighbors of ranch owner Wayne Cross help with the drive. Shown is Bonnie Stenberg aboard her cutting horse.

Work & Reward
After the cattle were gathered, the real work began. Cowboys and cowgirls danced their horses through the sea of cattle, separating mothers from their calves. The calves were then herded into a chute where Cross and other men were vaccinating them in a flurry of factory efficiency.

When the vaccinating was completed, the cattle were separated. Some would be shipped to market; others would be put on winter range.

After the work was done, there was a big outdoor barbecue. Everyone brought a dish to share, more wood was thrown on the fire, and a cold keg of beer was tapped. As darkness descended, Cross’ neighbor Jean Nemeth gave us a special treat. A talented musician, she played a hauntingly beautiful rendition of "Shenandoah" on her harmonica. A perfect ending to a perfect day!

Cattle-Drive Roundup
Here’s is a list of cattle drives available to the general public. These drives take place from Canada to Arizona. The experience can be anything from rustic to deluxe. You may stay in a tent as you travel with the cattle, or stay in a lodge and ride out each day.

You’ll have a great Western experience working cattle on horseback. You’ll enjoy the cattle work, the wide-open spaces, wildlife, local history, and nature. You’ll learn a lot about this unique experience and maybe even a little about yourself. The late, great, Western artist, Charlie Russell, got his start herding cattle in Montana. As Russell once said, "One can see what is manmade from the seat of an automobile. But, one can only see what God created from the back of a horse."

Before you book a drive, ask the outfit these questions: What’s the cost? What’s included in the cost? Can you bring your own horse? How many days will the drive be? How many head of cattle can you expect to drive? How many people will be on the drive? Do you stay in cabins, a lodge, or travel with the drive and stay in a tent? What do you need to bring? What kind of weather can you expect? How long can you expect to be in the saddle each day?

Bar W Guest Ranch, Montana. For a week each May and another week each September, the Bar W Guest Ranch rounds up cattle in some of the prettiest country in the Northern Rockies. All horses, food, and accommodations are included. The first two days are at the ranch. The middle three days are on the range, staying in tent camps. The last two nights are back at the ranch. The week includes some instruction in horsemanship, reading cattle, penning, and possibly roping. Cattle are gathered, roped, branded, vaccinated, and moved into other pastures. The last day culminates with a wagon ride and barbecue. Contact: (866) 828-2900; www.thebarw.com.

Equitours. This riding-tour operator arranges adventures around the world. Its offerings include several western United States cattle drives. One is the Long Valley Cattle Drive at the Utah/Arizona border. In October, cattle are moved from the high-country summer pastures near Bryce Canyon to the winter range on the north rim of the Grand Canyon. In June, the drive is done in reverse. Another drive is the Bitterroot Cattle Roundup in Wyoming. Guests herd cattle in more than 50 square miles of high mountains, forests, clearings, and river valleys. Contact: (800) 545-0019; www.ridingtours.com/horseback_riding_destinations/cattle_drives.cfm.

Flynn Ranch Cattle Drives, Montana. This ranch gives a select number of guests the chance to participate in an authentic one-week cattle drive three times per year. At that time, just 12 guests join the traditional ranch hands to round up 600 to 1,000 cattle and drive them to their summer pastures in southwest Montana’s Big Belt Mountains. This isn’t a dude ranch experience. Guests must be 18 years old or older, and intermediate or better riders. Additional activities include cowboy poetry, roping, history night, branding, campfire songs, and wildlife viewing. Contact: (406) 266-3534; www.workingranchvacations.com.

Hidden Trails. Based in Canada, Hidden Trails is another organization that offers worldwide equine adventures. In the United States, it features cattle drives in Montana, Wyoming, New Mexico, and Texas. Contact: (888) 9-TRAILS (987-2457) or (604) 323-1141; www.hiddentrails.com/usa/cd/index.htm.

Members of the Stenberg family (from left to right, Jerome, Joseph, Bonnie, and Jarrod) sort cattle.

Home On The Range, Alberta. Imagine moving cattle over the picturesque rolling landscape of Alberta. You’ll ride with experienced ranch hands whose life’s occupation has always been a cowboy. It isn’t all hard work. After a day in the saddle, you can spend the evening savoring a delicious home-cooked meal and relaxing by a crackling campfire. This outfit recommends no less than intermediate riding experience. Contact: (866) 760-8334; www.homeontherange.ca.

J.M. Nansel Ranch Company, Montana. The J.M. Nansel Ranch is a third-generation working cattle ranch that started in 1948. Whether it’s moving cattle to summer pasture or to different water holes, the rich history of the West comes alive at these cattle drives. These folks can accommodate most all needs. You may stop at the cow camp for an overnight experience or be back at the guest house before dark to enjoy an evening in the hot tub. Experienced cowboys are available to give you riding lessons and/or help you learn how to drive a draft-horse hitch. Contact: (406) 356-7253; www.nanselranch.com.

Laughing Water Ranch, Montana. This outfit has cattle drives during selected weeks in May and September. Depending on the week, you’ll round up, sort, brand, and move cattle from their winter pasture to summer range in May, or from summer range to the home ranch in September. This ride gets you off the beaten path where you chase cows and calves that have their own ideas of when to stop and where to go. The drive involves about 170 head of cattle. Contact: (800) 847-5095; www.lwranch.com.

Montana High Country Cattle Drive. This cattle drive winds through the Big Belt Mountains just east of Townsend, Montana. It’s a big drive! Guests move between 400 and 1,000 head of cattle. Along with the cattle drive, the outfit offers educational opportunities and entertainment. It has a cowboy poetry night, country dance night, and awards night. A special area-history program is provided. A wagon-train ride is also offered for guests who don’t want to ride a horse, but would like to participate in the cattle drive. Contact: (800) 345-9423; www.montanacattledrive.com.

Powder River Cattle Drive, Montana. These folks furnish your horse and tack, meals, and a cowboy teepee. A typical camp setting on this drive has portable toilets, solar-heated showers, and a large tent with open bar for evening music, dancing, and cowboy poetry. Meals are furnished around the chuck wagon with plenty of wholesome food.

The drive consists of four to six horse-drawn wagons driven by experienced teamsters, a herd of longhorn cattle, and a remuda of extra horses. The days are strenuous and require physical exertion. In the words of one repeat guest, "It ain’t for babies!"

The experience is reminiscent of what our ancestors participated in when they came west many years ago. Contact: (800) 492-8835; www.powderrivercattledrive.com.

Rockin Bar-A Cattle Drive, Utah. This dude ranch and cattle drive is located in the Blue Mountains of southern Utah. This is the area that the famous outlaw Butch Cassidy came from. In fact, some staff members of this ranch are Cassidy’s descendents. The ranch program includes all the standard guest-ranch services and activities, such as lodging, meals, trail rides, cattle drives, campfire singing, roping, wildlife viewing, and chuck wagon dinners. You’ll get a real taste of the Old West. Contact: (866) 435-3132; www.bluecattledrive.com.

Roundup Cattle Drive, Montana. For nearly 20 years, this cattle drive has been taking place near Billings, Montana. Hundreds of head of cattle are gathered, sorted, doctored, and moved. Fifty guests are assembled from all over the globe. Their days are filled with exciting cattle work, awesome scenery, and great grub.

A portable horse-drawn dance floor is taken along for a little two-stepping at night. The drive includes 15 wooden-wheeled wagons that make a 40-mile circle in rugged sandstone and jackpine-covered mountains. Contact: (800) 257-9775; www.roundupcattledrive.com.