York and wife Adeline with pack mules Texaco and Molly on the PCT

After selling his all-animal veterinary practice in 1986, Ben York, DVM, returned to doing what he loved most — riding backcountry trails. In the summer of 1992, he became only the second person to ride the entire 2,638-mile Pacific Crest Trail in one shot. (For more information, see “Border to Border” on page 50.)

York, who grew up in the saddle, graduated from high school in 1943, then spent four years in the infantry. He then attended veterinary school at the University of California-Davis. Summers, he led mule pack strings into the Sierra Nevada mountain range.

Meanwhile, “a great looking gal in the rodeo club” at U.C. Davis caught his eye. He made a favorable impression on Adeline Wright when he helped teach her Pinto, Starlight, to trailer load. “But she knew more about horses than I’d ever imagined,” he says about his wife of 52 years. They have three children, Victoria, Valerie, and Ben III.

After retirement, York became involved in the Backcountry Horsemen of California and the Pacific Crest Trail Association, eventually serving both as president.

Ben York, DVM, rides a rocky switchback along the 2,638-mile Pacific Crest Trail in September 1992, aboard Leverage, an 8-year-old Standardbred gelding.

When he and Adeline decided to tackle the Pacific Crest Trail, more than 250 friends and organization members helped to make their dream a reality. After an accident sidelined his wife, York continued on.

Although a few years later he rode the trail again, that first ride remains his most memorable. His journal, PCT by 2 in 1992, is a valuable commentary for anyone contemplating the journey. (To order, see the contact information on page 54.)

We caught up with York at his home in Alpine, California, to talk about that memorable 1992 ride, his best trail mounts, and more.

TTR: Tell us about your earliest memory of riding and your first horse.

York: I was born in Pleasantown, California, where my dad trained riding horses. One of my very first memories is of my dad putting me on top of a big, broad mare and promptly flying off into a manure pile!

Later, a little Nevada mustang mare named Trinket became my first horse. A local dog-food company routinely went to Nevada to round up mustangs, which could then be purchased for $10 each back in Pleasantown. Trinket was a sorrel mare, 14 hands high and about 750 pounds. She wasn’t real sociable, all business — but a great ride, and she taught me lots.

TTR: Tell us about your first “real” trail ride.

York: The first ride I recall was with my dad and my younger brother, Marshall, delivering a pair of Clydesdale horses from Livermore, California, to Modesto. It was a three-day ride, and Marshall and I rode one horse, dad another. We packed a mattress to sleep on at night, which was a real challenge during the high winds we encountered en route, crossing Altemont Pass. But for two young boys, it was all adventure and excitement.

After falling off that mare of early memory, a $10, 14-hand Nevada mustang mare named Trinket became York’s first horse. “She wasn’t real sociable, all business--but a great ride, and she taught me lots,” he says. York today, looking back on lifetime of riding.

TTR: How did you get involved with the Backcountry Horsemen of California, and why?

York: In 1986, I sold my veterinary practice, and we moved from central California to the San Diego area. We spent lots of time riding local trails, met members, and went to packing demonstrations and conventions sponsored by the Back Country Horsemen of California. I became president of our local unit and, in 1992, state president. 

TTR: Why did you want to ride the Pacific Crest Trail, and why in one shot?

York: I can’t resist saying, “Because it is there.” But I also wanted to see what condition it was in, and perhaps do something to improve it. Originally, I figured we’d do it over the course of several years, in two-week segments. But Adeline thought that by the second week we’d just be easing into a comfortable routine on the trail, so, she argued, why stop? It was her idea to do the entire trip at once, but I’m not sure she realized it was over 2,600 miles!

TTR: Tell us about your horse and the two mules that accompanied you on the trail.

York: My horse was Leverage, a Standardbred gelding who was then 8 years old. He’s a pacer that I bought for $400 after he’d been retired from the track. Today,

I wouldn’t sell him for $40,000! He rose to every challenge we encountered on the trail. And every afternoon, around 3:30 or 4:00 p.m., he’d spot a campground he found acceptable, walk up to a tree nearby, and just stop. I knew it was time to quit.

My two mules were Texaco, an 11-year-old jack, and Molly, an 8-year-old jenny. Originally, I had a third, Queenie, who was just over 2 years old, but after a short while it became apparent that she wasn’t strong or mature enough for the trip. Texaco and Molly each packed about 125 pounds, and I used a high line to tether them at night.

TTR: What tips can you give other riders who plan to ride the Pacific Crest Trail?

York: I believe your stock should be at least 6 years old or older, and well-broke. Use broken-in tack — you wouldn’t start a long hike with new boots! I use small, six-by-six-inch saddlebags and never put anything heavier than a jacket behind the saddle. That’s the weakest part of your horse’s back, and too much weight can easily create sore backs. I reshod my stock every 500 miles or once a month, whatever came first.

TTR: How did your wife’s accident happen? Did you consider postponing your ride?

York: We were less than two weeks into the ride, and attempting to skirt the first snow we encountered near Big Bear [in Southern California]. We both had a bit of trouble making our way through some brush and trees. Adeline was riding Molly, and somehow she caught her spur between the two cinches. When I looked back to see how she was, she was on the ground. Unfortunately, Molly stepped on her shoulder, and it broke. That night, we stayed in our tent as a thunder and lightning storm raged outside.

The next morning, I rode down the road, and found a forest ranger who summoned an ambulance and a rescue unit. Ironically, the last thing Adeline said to me when I set off was, “Whatever you do, don’t call an ambulance.” So when I watched them load her into the ambulance and bounce down the hill, I knew I’d hear about it later — and I did!

Continuing without her was the most difficult decision of the trip. She really wanted to go, and had been an integral part of the inspiration and planning. But I rode on, with Adeline still very much involved. Finally, at Chinook Pass in Washington, she was able to start driving the rig, joining me at restocking points — and she rode some of the last miles.

TTR: How did you prepare for the changing weather conditions?

York: For changing weather conditions, layers of clothing that you can put on and take off work best. Light materials that breathe, such as Gore-Tex, are excellent. That said, I always wore chaps and cowboy boots, with my pants tucked inside the boot. I’ll admit that wet, cold cowboy boots are nearly impossible to get off, so lace-up, pack boots are probably better. Both Wrangler and Levi [Strauss] gave us jackets and shirts for the trip.

On the PCT, York originally had three mules: Texaco, an 11-year-old jack; Molly, an 8-year-old jenny; and Queenie, a 2-year-old jenny. “But after a short while it became apparent that Queenie she wasn’t strong or mature enough for the trip,” he notes.

TTR: What was the worst weather you encountered?

York: I had a hint the weather was deteriorating one night camped on a ridge on the west side of Lake Tahoe [on the California/Nevada border], when the wind and rain blew the fly off my tent. The next day, I encountered the worst weather of the trip. Riding towards Old Donner Pass, I couldn’t see 10 feet in front of me through the fog, sleet, snow, and rain. It was miserable.

When I came around a bend and into a clearing, I couldn’t quite believe my eyes: There was a horse trailer. Way out in the middle of nowhere, a Wisconsin dairyman and his wife had made their home. They put my stock in their corral, and gave me a hot shower and a good, home-cooked meal. I even had a shot of Scotch — and I hadn’t imbibed in 40 years! You can never predict when or where help might appear — there are “trail angels.”

TTR: How did you handle the logistics of replenishing your supplies?

York: You cannot live off the land — there’s water for your stock, but not sufficient food — so you need a support team to meet you with supplies, minimally every two weeks. There are plenty of opportunities where the trail intersects roads. To plan these, I used several books — including Pacific Crest Trail Volume I, California, and Volume II, Oregon and Washington — plus U.S. Forest Service maps, and maps of all three states. There were about 250 people who helped me, so you can get an idea of the considerable scope of the undertaking. The Backcountry Horsemen of California and Washington helped enormously, as did units belonging to Oregon Equestrian Trails.

York rides the PCT in 1992. He bought his Saddlebred mount, Leverage for $400 off the track. “Today, I wouldn’t sell him for $40,000!” he says. “He rose to every challenge we encountered on the trail.”

TTR: How fast did you travel, and how long did the entire ride take?

York: This is a scenic trail, not meant for speed. We traveled at a walk, and covered about 20 miles per day, six days per week. The trip took five months and one week.

TTR: What was your greatest challenge?

York: It’s a tossup — either the ground bee nests in the Northwest (exit fast, or you’ll have a rodeo on your hands), or the huge, black horseflies in Washington. Mosquitoes are troublesome, but not as miserable as those flies.

TTR: What was your most humorous experience on the trail?

York: I had lots of smiles along the way, many having to do with passing pack llamas (always keep your stock pointed at them), or surprising marmots or bears — who always bailed out fast! But I really had some laughs at Milk Creek, in Washington, near Lake Chelan. A bridge was out, and with the snow melt, the creek was more like a river. After the crossing, I made camp where a trail repair crew had been. I hadn’t even unpacked when dozens of fat little mice invaded my camp. As I cooked, they even tried to jump into my pot! But as soon as I turned the lights out, they disappeared.

York’s wife, Adeline, aboard her Missouri Fox Trotter, Fancy, at the start of the couple’s Pacific Crest Trail ride in 1992. Adeline later had to drop out of the ride due to an accident.

TTR: What’s the worst thing that happened?

York: The worst happened on the Blue Ribbon Trail in the Angeles Forest, north of Los Angeles. There was a wooden bridge across a stream, but the side rails appeared too narrow for the mules to get through with their packs. There was a dam on the upstream side made of rocks secured with hogwire, which I decided to ride across instead of the bridge.

Leverage was crossed successfully and Texaco followed, but Molly refused. So I dismounted and untied Molly from Texaco. But while I was doing that, Texaco somehow fell between the dam and the bridge. His left hind shoe caught in the wire, he flipped onto his back, and his packs prevented him from righting himself. Quickly, I cut both of his cinches. He pulled his left foot free from the shoe and jumped up. It was a close call, but we were okay — praise the Lord!

TTR: What was your most difficult on-trail emergency?

York: I didn’t have emergencies, just situations that called for common sense, preparedness, and calm.

TTR: What tips would you give other riders to help prevent on-trail emergencies?

York: Before you plan a long trail ride, join the BCH, and learn how to take care of yourself and your stock on the trail. Feed well. I fed them each two pounds of pellets, three times per day, and well-cured alfalfa hay.

Border to Border About the trail: The Pacific Crest Trail spans 2,638 miles from Mexico to Canada through three western states: California, Oregon, and Washington. It boasts the greatest elevation changes of any of America’s National Scenic Trails, passing through six out of seven of North America’s ecological zones. Riders go from the scorching desert valleys in Southern California to rain forests in the Pacific Northwest; from old-growth forest to artic-alpine country; from the glaciated expanses of the Sierra Nevada to the volcanic peaks and glaciers in the Cascade Range. Trail history: Clinton C. Clarke, often credited as the “father” of the PCT, founded the Pacific Crest Trail System Conference in the early 1930s to promote linking and extending the John Muir, Oregon Skyline, and Cascade Crest trails into one continuous trail from Mexico to Canada. In 1968, the PCT and the Appalachian Trail were officially designated as the country’s first National Scenic Trails. Agency trail crews, contractors, and volunteers worked on completing the trail for many years. In 1993, the Pacific Crest Trail Association joined the USDA Forest Service and other land management agencies in celebrating the completion of the trail with a “Golden Spike” ceremony near Soledad Canyon in the Angeles National Forest. For more information: Call the Pacific Crest Trail Association at (916) 349-2109, or visit www.pcta.org.  — Courtesy of the Pacific Crest Trail Association

Many trail problems can be avoided by good animal husbandry. That is, take care to tether your stock so they don’t get rope burns because you carelessly staked them out, and don’t continue when you’re overtired, because that’s when accidents occur. Care for your animal’s back. At the end of the day, I always washed the mules’ backs with cold water and checked for chafing or sores. Know how to load the packs properly; otherwise, you’ll get into trouble when packs shift.

You’ll need to vaccinate your stock, and have Coggins tests [for equine infectious anemia] to satisfy border-crossing requirements. Pressure bandages are useful, but outside of Banamine [a prescription nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory medication], I didn’t carry drugs. Basic first-aid kits are available through the BCH, and it’s not a bad idea to take first aid classes for yourself and your horses.

The happy trailriding couple has been married 52 years.

 

TTR: What other tips can you give to someone interested in riding the Pacific Crest Trail today?

York: Learn to ride really well, and don’t take a bronc. Every year on the trail, you’ll encounter different conditions, so I tell people, if you’re adaptable, ingenious, and well-prepared, you’ll succeed. And join the BCH and the PCTA!

TTR: Finish this sentence, “At the end of a long day in the saddle, I love to treat myself with...

York: ...a quart of water mixed with Crystal Lite — or maybe two.”

TTR: Which three people, past or present, would you like to swap stories with around a campfire?

Leverage left, and Fancy take a break on the PCT in 1992.

York: Number one would be Jesus Christ. And I’d invite George Washington, because I’d like to ask him about taking the army from New York to Virginia to whip Cornwallis. [The English general who commanded British forces during the American Revolution.] Forget crossing the Delaware, that 400-mile, cross-country trip was a real challenge! And I’d invite my great-grandfather, Pastor Gyon, a military chaplain.

TTR: What’s your idea of perfect happiness?

York: When my daughter Victoria, then 17, was the Cattle Call Queen, and was interviewed at the Salinas Rodeo, she was asked what her goal in life was. She answered, “I want to go to heaven.” Well, that’s my idea of perfect happiness.

TTR: What image remains with you, long after your PCT ride is over?

York: As we finished the ride in Canada, Adeline snapped a photo of me sitting on a rock, jotting notes into my journal. Leverage stands with his head resting on my shoulder. A dozen years later, it still brings tears to my eyes to think that my horse didn’t know where he was, or even where he’d been, but he was always ready and willing to go whenever and wherever I asked. And the mules were always close behind.