
Ben Theyre and BeBop, a purebred Straight Egyptian
Arabian. To prepare for his 170-mile trek in India, he rode
BeBop on day-long treks beginning in early summer.
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A few months ago, Vanessa and I became fascinated with the idea of
taking an international horse trek. (See "Ride of a
Lifetime,"
Life’s
Lessons on the Trail, November/December
’08.) We decided to visit northwest India and take a horse safari in Rajasthan
to the world-famous Pushkar Fair.
Although we’ve traveled internationally in the past and booked
flights overseas, we were humbled by the realization that we had virtually no
knowledge about traveling to or within the Indian subcontinent. So we decided to
employ a travel service that specialized in international horse safaris and seek
the counsel of an international travel health service.
Armed only with the introductory information provided by the
television shows Equitekking and
Passport to Adventure,
we began our quest to learn about traveling to rural India and taking
horse safaris.
Our first stop was the local book shop to pick up a copy of the
Lonely Planet guidebook, India. With 600-plus
pages of pictures, maps, and anecdotal stories, it’s an easy-to-read, up-to-date
reference on travel and basic survival.
The Internet, specifically The Google and
YouTube, became an indispensable resource in our
planning. With the India guidebook at her
side, Vanessa spent hours online researching and bookmarking sites. Each night,
we’d go over her findings, taking notes in a black-and-red bound notebook.
Happily, we learned that there are several travel services to
choose from that specialize in international riding adventures. And we were
sobered to learn of the health risks posed by travel to India. Travelers are
exposed to malaria, hepatitis, polio, dengue fever, and digestive disorders, to
name just a few.
Trip preparation quickly became serious business. We needed to
make informed decisions to assure a smooth, seamless travel itinerary that would
maximize our equine adventure experience and minimize our health and safety
risks.
At Our Service
After sending a number of e-mails and making follow-up telephone
calls to various companies, we chose the Philadelphia, Pennsylvania-based travel
service, The Compleat Traveller (www.ridingholidays.com).
The owner, Artie Sacks, gained our trust as a knowledgeable
equestrian who’d traveled throughout India and on horseback in other countries.
Artie gave us insights about the Indian culture and international travel; he’s
savvy, informative, personable, and always a joy to talk to.
Artie has authored two books on international riding holidays and
belongs to the prestigious Long Riders Guild (www.thelongridersguild.com), the
world’s first international association of equestrian explorers who’ve ridden
more than 1,000 continuous miles on a single equestrian journey.
Normally, The Compleat Traveller takes care of all the
arrangements and itinerary negotiations for its clients. However, because I’m a
journalist, Artie thought I might want to learn how he develops itineraries for
equine adventures. We welcomed the opportunity to peer inside the process.
Artie introduced us, via e-mail, to Ute at Princess Trails
(www.princesstrails.com), a small Indo-German family business owned by Ute’s
husband, a member of one of the oldest, most honored families of nobility in
Udaipur. They’d be hosting our seven-day safari from Udaipur to the Pushkar
Fair. Artie worked with us during the planning, making suggestions and interacting with Ute and us throughout the entire process.
The first thing we received from Princess Trails was a basic
information form.
It asked us a number of questions, including how we’d rate
our riding skills. We both checked "Experienced" and returned the form. Several
days later, Artie called to let us know that Vanessa and I were accepted
for the safari.
An e-mail from India told us that the safari group traveling to
the Pushkar Fair would have five other riders: two from Germany, one from Italy,
and two other Americans. We’d all be riding Marwari horses. Using Google Earth,
Vanessa estimated that our seven-day safari would cover about 170 miles.
Princess Trails also handled our arrangements for two three-day
periods that bracketed the safari, when we’d have time to explore India on our
own. Hotels, air reservations, meals, sightseeing, and even a visit to the Taj
Mahal were included in a comprehensive itinerary that culminated in a taxi ride
to the airport for our flight home.
Admittedly, it was a bit frustrating at times. All this
communication was being sent during India’s monsoon season. After one extended
lag in a response to an e-mail, we learned that Princess Trails occasionally
lost "connectivity" during the rainy season. I guess it lost power, too!
The Marwari Horse
The Marwari Horse is an ancient breed native to Rajasthan. It’s
well-suited for long rides in its homeland. It’s a highly intelligent animal
with great stamina.
The Marwari Horse has Arab and Turkmeni ancestry. Formerly bred as
war steeds, these horses were brought to the desert kingdom of Marwar (a region
of the Rajasthan state) by central Asian and Muslim invaders 800 years ago. From
there, the Marwari spread through the whole of Rajasthan.
The horse’s name literally means "from the land of death." Over
eight centuries, it was bred in the harsh desert climate of Rajasthan by warring
clans. It’s a cherished and honored breed — the pride of the Rajputs.
The highlight of our adventure will be to ride these historic
horses on our journey to Pushkar, as we travel across the mountains, forests,
and deserts of Rajasthan.
Health Concerns
The fact that we’d be riding seven days straight for nearly 170
miles through a variety of land forms and sleeping in tent camps got our
attention early in the planning process. Vanessa and I both realized that it was
essential that we be in good physical shape for riding those distances.
Early in the summer, we began a regular schedule of riding Thunder
and BeBop for day-long treks. We rode in the Bristol Hills near our farm, in the
hills of the county park, and on the Otter Creek trails in the North Country.
Our bodies soon began to look better, our weight dropped, and our legs became
stronger.
Frankly, we haven’t had the need or desire to get into condition
for that type of riding for several years. Vanessa was last in top riding
condition in 2003. But the last multi-day ride I did was nearly nine years ago,
when I was in my mid-40s; I was definitely in better shape back then.
Nonetheless, we rode regularly, and the regimen served us well.
Close to our departure date, we kept our appointment with Passport
Health, a service of the University of Rochester that assesses travel health
risks and offers counsel on staying healthy in foreign countries. For a small
fee, we were given access to a medical expert on travel in India. We
received inoculations for several health risks we’d face while there, and a
personalized 50-page booklet with directions on how to prevent digestive
problems, dehydration, malaria, and even jet lag.
In the event we did get injured, we obtained supplemental health
insurance from MEDEX Global Group through the International Center of Syracuse.
This service assures prompt evacuation to an approved MEDEX hospital, quality
medical care in its worldwide health network, and a telephone contact in the
United States. Our Passport Health consultant was familiar with the service, and
agreed it was well worth the $30 premium.
Terrorist Threats
In our post-9/11 world, the threat of terrorist attack can’t be
ignored in many foreign lands; arguably, incidents can be expected.
Sure enough, five bombing incidents occurred during September in
the markets and streets of New Delhi. That opened our eyes. We’d planned to
spend three days sightseeing there, prior to our flight to Udaipur for the
safari.
To get the full story, we fired up the laptop and visited
The Times of India website. After
reading several articles on the events, we contacted Artie and Ute to request a
change in plans that would keep us out of large cities.
Ute wrote that terrorist attacks are a way of life in India’s big
cities, and locals are typically the targets. She felt the best way to protect
against these "unfortunate events" would be to avoid crowded marketplaces.
We insisted on the change. With little said, our flights and hotel
reservations were switched and a revised itinerary was sent. We were charged
only $40. It was really painless.
Last stop: As we’d be away November 4, Election Day, we called our
county board of elections and requested
absentee ballots. We fulfilled our civic responsibility, voted early, and were
now ready to travel.
Just Visitors
A trip is often defined by its purpose. We chose a horse safari to
expand our knowledge of horses and world cultures so that we can better
appreciate our homeland when we return. India is there for us to discover.
The planning of this trip can be boiled down to two maxims:
• A well-planned itinerary is essential to fully enjoy our
adventure in this exotic land.
• Being aware of the major risks, and taking measures to
reduce them, will, we hope, keep us healthy and safe.
It’s just as important for us to remember that we’ll be guests in
a culturally diverse country. We’ll be there to experience the people and
culture of Rajasthan and its proud history of horses.
In the next issue (March ’09), we’ll bring you the story of the safari and
our destination, the Pushkar Fair. To check out our video diary of the trip,
visit www.bentheyre.com.