Elkhorn Hot Springs Lodge, built in 1921, offers rustic cabins, lodge rooms, and horse camping. "A hearty breakfast at the historic lodge is included with overnight lodging", note Kent and Charlene Krone.

The Pioneer Mountain Range is a little-known gem in southwestern Montana’s Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest. This beautiful, mountainous area is divided into the West Pioneers and East Pioneers.

The West Pioneers are plateau-like, covered with thick pine forests, dotted with mountain lakes, and home to numerous riding trails. In contrast, the East Pioneers are vastly more rugged. Trails penetrate high peaks, lofty passes, and pristine mountain lakes. They boast 42 peaks over 10,000 feet in elevation.

These two mountain sections are divided by the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway. Numerous campsites and trailheads are located along this well-maintained mountain road. Campers can enjoy a setting comparable to Yellowstone’s vast beauty and open spaces.

A good source map of the area is the Southwest Montana Interagency Visitor/Travel Map, west half available from the Beaverhead-Deerlodge National Forest Supervisor office (406/683-3900; www.fs.fed.us/r1/bdnf/).

Elkhorn Hot Springs
For our base of operations, we selected Elkhorn Hot Springs (800/722-8978; www.elkhornhotsprings.com) at the southern end of the Wise River Scenic Byway Road.

Elkhorn is a commercial development with a large gravel area for camping and horse use. Also available are rooms in the lodge, as well as cabins. The lodge was built in 1921; the cabins were added in the 1920s and 1930s.

The cabins are extremely rustic, some even with outdoor toilets. A hearty breakfast at the historic lodge is included with overnight lodging.

Hot-spring pools were first built at this site in 1918. The pools have been revamped and are available today to soak saddle-weary bones after a long ride.

If you don’t have your own horse or need an extra one for your travel group, head for Diamond Hitch Outfit-ters (800/368-5494; www.diamondhitchoutfitters.com). This company offers rides out of the hot springs area on mountain-savvy horses.

Cast of Characters
Our ride at the Pioneers was a group ride. We invited folks from Idaho to Georgia to join us in our exploration of this beautiful region.

Our dear friends, Angie and Joyce Bissell, joined us from Idaho. Angie is a rancher and inventor. Joyce is an excellent horsewoman, fabulous seamstress, and general "keep Angie out of trouble" person.

Also in our group were the Bissells’ daughter, Angie Lee Morrow, and their 12-year-old granddaughter, Shay. In addition, our friend Kristi Raap, an educator and computer technician, and her 12-year-old son, Jake, came along.

Traveling the farthest was Pat Thompson and his wife, Maniya Barredo, from Georgia. Pat is an artist, realtor, and genuine Georgian cowboy. Maniya was our group celebrity. She was the first prima ballerina from the Philippines and has performed for kings, queens, and presidents around the world.

Rounding out our group was Kent’s mom, Betty Shadduck. She doesn’t ride anymore, but she’s still a go-getter! She drives her stick-shift 4X4 truck, hikes, explores, and possesses an insatiable curiosity about everything in life.

Blue Creek
Our first ride was from the group camp at Elkhorn Hot Springs up the Blue Creek trail. We were nine riders strong. (Kent’s mom and Kristi explored tourist attractions by vehicle.)

We rode south from Elkhorn for almost a mile on the main road past Grasshopper Campground to the Blue Creek trailhead. Then we rode west up the trailhead and took Trail #425. After a short distance we hit a trail junction; we took the trail that went right.

This is a great break-in ride with good trails and a gentle uphill grade. However, be careful. Because the West Pioneers are plateau-like, it’s very easy to become confused by interconnecting trails and flat riding. Although loops are possible, always be aware of your back trail. People not familiar with the area have attempted loops and came out on the wrong side of the mountains!

The trail wanders uphill past boulders and forested ridges. We rode past several large meadows filled with grasses and flowers. Finally, we came to a very large flower-filled meadow. What a perfect place for lunch! Sunshine blanketed the meadow while insects droned a sleepy lullaby. Wildflowers appeared to frolic and toss their heads in the summer breeze.

Everyone enjoyed the nice rest, tasty lunch, and gorgeous view. Pat showed us his insulated saddlebag inserts from Country Supply (800/637-6721; www.horse.com) that kept his food and beverage cold. Buddy mistook my thumb for a carrot and bit off the end of my fingernail!

The Blue Creek ride is a great break-in ride with good trails and a gentle uphill grade, note the Krones.

Odell Lake
For the ride to Odell Lake, we trailered a few miles north of Elkhorn to Odell Meadows Trailhead. Take Forest Rd. 2417 off the Wise River Rd. for the last few miles to the trailhead. This parking lot has ample turnaround for horse trailers, plus hitching rails.

The ride to Odell Lake is truly beautiful. The trail meanders past meadows, through forests, and up to terrific alpine views. The distance is about five miles to the lake past one unmarked trail intersection. We took the trail to the right.

Just before the lake, we came to a large alpine meadow. At this point, all horses jolted to a stop and their ears popped up. A short distance to the left, a herd of about 20 elk bolted from the grass. They made a wonderful sight as they ran over the hill.

Also at this point, the trail mostly disappears! Resist the temptation to go left and farther uphill. Instead, ride straight or slightly right through the meadow; Odell Lake will appear below in a meadow-enclosed bowl.

Ride to the far end of the lake. This is a great spot to stop, relax, and study a landscape unmarked by passage of time. If you wish to ride farther, continue on the same trail, which leads to more lakes.

Lunch and fishing called to us. Most lakes in the Pioneers have healthy populations of rainbow, cutthroat, and eastern brook trout. Odell Lake is a rarity in that it has grayling.

Angie and Joyce helped Shay fish, while we helped Jake set up his fishing equipment. Pat and Maniya plopped their line into the water a short distance away. Within an hour, we had a nice batch of pan-sized grayling for dinner.

Every Western horse outing needs evening entertainment. Jake chopped wood and built a crackling fire. Angie brought out his homemade wine. Tales were told around the campfire while we munched on s’mores.

Several folks took part in our little roping clinic. Much to the dismay and closed eyes of Maniya, Pat tried his hand at bullwhipping. Mom and Kristi shared their adventures of the day.

One night, we brought in cowboy poet and singer Val Prophet. Val has been a writer of original poems and songs for 50 years. He mesmerized us and brought tears to our eyes with his singing and stories.

Angie Lee and Shay got into the act forming a mother-daughter singing duet with Val’s song about nearby Sand Lake.

Ghost Town
With time for one more ride, we trailered a few miles south to the ghost town of Bannack (406/834-3413; www.bannack.org).

Bannack is a wondrous place to spend time and soak up authentic Western atmosphere. This town is the cradle of Montana history. Back in the 1860s, it became Montana’s first territorial capital and the site of a big gold rush.

With gold, came outlaws. In the course of a relatively short time, they killed and robbed an estimated 102 people in Bannack and the surrounding area. The leader of the outlaws was none other than the sheriff of Bannack, Henry Plummer.

Town citizens formed a group of vigilantes. Within a couple months, they captured and hung 24 of the outlaws, including Plummer. The sheriff was hung on gallows that still stand outside town today. His last words were, "Give me a good drop, boys."

Today, Bannack is a state park where dozens of buildings are preserved in their original condition. Visit the small visitor center, then tour the town at your leisure.

Take special note of Hotel Meade, originally the county courthouse. Walk inside, peer into the vault, and meander upstairs on the spiral staircase. In 1877, when the Nez Perce were being chased by the cavalry, town citizens gathered in this building to fend off an attack. The tribe passed by peacefully.

In Bannack, there’s a special place for parking horse trailers. At the town entrance, turn right on the dirt road. Cross a stream, and go around the town’s southern boundary to a large parking lot on the eastern side.

At the visitor center, you can pay the entrance fee and obtain maps that show horse trails going north from town. We selected a route on the original stagecoach trail to Road Agent Rock.

Riding through the edge of town, we passed old buildings whose doors and shutters creaked aimlessly in the breeze. We imagined bygone days with people going about their business, mines clanking and clonking, and scruffy prisoners in the small jail biding their time.

Look in the jail where rings remain on the floor. Prisoners were shackled to these rings. One small window provided a view straight uphill to the waiting gallows! We rode up by these gallows and past a small cemetery to a bluff where we could look back upon all the buildings in town. What a view from the past!

Our trail led up through open hills blotted with patches of sage. We had fantastic views across the hills, valley, and back to the Pioneers. Folds of hills and mountains were a multicolored tapestry; various hues of green and brown greeted our eyes. Breezes brought fragrances of sage.

At Road Agent Rock, we paused and reminisced on history. This was the site of many holdups by outlaws. Wagon ruts mark an old stagecoach trail that runs next to the rock.

Legend has it that before Henry Plummer was caught and hung, he hid a box of gold and stolen goods in this area. A quick search by our party didn’t turn up the strong box. But we did have a treasure trove of beautiful views.

Another ride out of Bannack is south of town; open hills lead to forest-covered mountains in the distance. The ride is a combination of old wagon roads and cross-country trails. On the way, we rode by an old line shack.

Once in the tree line, ancient tree stumps recall the gold dredge days. Lumberjacks with horse-drawn wagons cut timber from these hills. Logs would then be returned to Bannack to provide fuel for boilers powering the gold dredges.

The region east and south of the tree line is under consideration by the Bureau of Land Management to become a designated wilderness area. Ride to your heart’s delight in country that remains as it was back in the days of the Old West!

Fond Farewell
As we said goodbye to our friends, the Pioneer Mountains, and the history of southwestern Montana, we once again appreciated everything we were able to experience due to the beauty of sharing our life with horses.

During the precious time we spent in nature with friends and horses, we thought of John Muir when he said, "In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks."