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health: supplements
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| Magnesium And Thiamine Are No. 1 Nutrients For Calming Horses |
| Valerian shows results, too, but its effects may be limited to times the horse isn't otherwise stimulated, such as when he's in a stall. |
If you’re
looking for a quick-fix tranquilizer alternative that will instantly transform
your horse into an automaton, this article isn’t for you. Anyone with
a horse that is too strong, too energetic,
too eager, too forward for the job
they want done, or for their level
of riding expertise, needs a new horse, a
trainer or both. You and the
horse will be better off for it. Time, patience and
retraining should
also be used in an effort to solve behavior problems before
hoping for
a fix from a supplement.
| Valerian and Performance Horses |
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Valerian
has long been on the list of prohibited substances for horses competing in
events that have a drug policy. Now that there is actually a test available, you
need to realize that if you use this herb you could get caught.
Also, while
effects are generally less pronounced than with drugs or common antidepressants
that may have similar effects on the nervous system, the safety and
effectiveness has not been determined for horses, especially for long-term use.
Withdrawal symptoms have been reported in other species. |

A stallbound horse might need a calmative.
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Sorting Through
Before even
considering a supplement, it can be helpful to define the problem you’re
having:
Horse was
previously fine but develops behavior issues under saddle. This could
be a sign that the horse is hurting. Before doing anything else, make a list of
things that trigger the behavior, such as being asked to jump, assume a canter
lead, going up or down hills. These can be important clues to where the horse
might be hurting. A horse like this may also simply be “sour,” bored with its
routine. Horse was
recently purchased and was fine with the old owner and fine when you tried her
out, but at your barn is showing behavior issues. We hope you
had your vet draw blood to hold for drug testing as part of your prepurchase
exam. Both short- and long-term tranquilizers (30 days or longer from a single
treatment) can be used to make horses behave well for prospective buyers. If you’re
sure that’s not the problem, the horse may be testing you to see what she can
get away with (try her with a more experienced handler and rider to see what
happens), or she may simply be having trouble adjusting to her new environment
and routine. Things like the loss of old buddies and changes in the level of
turnout can lead to behavior issues. Different causes call for a different
management and training approaches. Isolated
resistances and phobias. This would
include things like resistance to being bridled/haltered, or an inordinate fear
of clippers. Depending on the problem, the first step is to rule out a physical
cause (like sore ears), but for the most part these are training issues and
should be addressed as such, not with drugs or supplements. (See sidebar on
densensitization.)
| Grain And Hot Behavior |
While
nutritionists agree that feeding grains/corn/sweet feed doesn’t cause
sugar-high-related behavior problems like many people have suspected, a
grain-fed horse often does have more energy. The exact cause isn’t really clear,
but it may be related to their muscles having better stores of the energy source
glycogen at their disposal.
Whatever
the reason, the solution is simple. Don’t over-feed concentrates. Grain
shouldn’t even be considered unless the horse is doing enough work to be unable
to hold a normal weight on free-choice hay and a protein/mineral
supplement. Along the same lines,
though, don’t starve your horse in an effort to make him more controllable. If
you feel a “need” to do this, consult a trainer for help.
If the
horse does need a more concentrated calorie source, and grain just creates too
much of a Jekyll-and-Hyde situation in your horse, try beet pulp for a calmer
response. |
Behaviors
that may involve eyesight.These
include reluctance to enter a trailer, hesitation when moving from dark to
well-lit areas, spooking, shying and being startled easily when approached from
behind or only on one side. A thorough eye check, including the interior of the
eye and the field of vision, should be done by a veterinarian or veterinary eye
specialist.
Some horses
may have perfectly normal eyes but unusually large corpora nigra, small “balls”
of pigmented iris that sit along the upper edge of the pupil. These are believed
to normally act as visors against bright light but when large can actually block
vision when the horse goes into bright light and the pupil constricts
down.
Nervousness or personality. Much time,
effort and money can be wasted if you are trying to change the horse’s basic
personality. If we define “nervousness” as an abnormal reaction, that’s one
thing, but horses, like people, have different personalities and different likes
and dislikes. Some horses are just naturally “up,” eager, energetic, full of
life and looking for action. This is different from nervousness, which includes
signs of anxiety/fear, even physical symptoms such as sweating, trembling and
diarrhea. It’s important to know the difference. If you try to change a horse
that is just simply full of life into a disciplined show horse or bomb-proof
trail horse, you’ll both be miserable.
True Supplement CandidatesHorses that
are overly sensitive to touch or sounds, are genuinely fearful, nervous or
anxious in predictable situations, where physical and training issues have
definitely been ruled out—and you’re sure it’s not just a matter of the horse
being naturally high-spirited—may be helped by the correct supplement. Another
scenario for supplement use is horses on forced stall rest. Once you have
determined a calming supplement may be useful, the next step is actually picking
one.
| To Longe Or Not To Longe |
|
 Longeing
before you ride is a common method for letting the horse “get his bucks out” and
it works—if you don’t go too far. Longeing a horse that’s feeling good for a few
minutes can let him kick and play before he has to work, but if the horse is
routinely longed to the point he’s actually getting tired, all you’re doing is
getting him fit.
A better
approach is more turnout. If extended turnout isn’t an option at your facility,
at least try to get use of a small paddock or round pen before you ride, an area
where he can’t really run at high speeds at will but has enough room to let off
steam and roll. Turn him loose until antics subside.
The Abused
Horse Rescuing a
horse from an abusive situation is a noble gesture, and we applaud anyone who
has done this. However, many of these horses come with “emotional baggage” that
shows up as behavior issues. A horse that has been physically abused will have
learned a deep distrust of people and most likely an even deeper distrust of
people who resemble the previous abusing owner. Horses that have been beaten for
exhibiting behaviors they can’t truly control will become increasingly difficult
to handle. This reaction can take many forms, including being easily startled,
evasive of contact, extremely fearful or even quite
aggressive. |
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These
horses should always be considered dangerous in the sense that you can’t always
accurately predict what might trigger a memory and cause the horse to act in
self-defense in a way that could get you injured. You can’t really “blame” the
horse for this, nor can you train them out it, or supplement them out of it. It
simply takes time to regain their trust. If you have no experience with an
abused horse, you definitely should get professional guidance. When handled
properly by someone knowledgeable, these horses often form strong bonds, but
there are many do’s and don’ts along the way.
Horses that
have been starved but not necessarily physically abused otherwise can also be a
problem. Even long past the time when they have regained their weight and should
“know” that they can count on being regularly fed, they will often be protective
of food, to the point that feeding in a group situation might not be an option.
You also need to be careful about getting too close to the horse when he is
eating. Note:
Be aware that, in some horses, aggressive behavior caused by abuse may reappear
at any time, even with good, loving care. Precautions and proper handling may be
needed long-term. |
Products In our
“Ingredients And Typical Effects” chart on page 6, we’ve listed the ingredients
you’re likely to find in calming products. Unfortunately, little solid
equine-specific information is available, so we’re forced to give you common
human conditions.
In our own
field trials and experience with horses and calming supplements, we’ve found the
best results with thiamine, magnesium or combinations of the two when dealing
with horses that are excessively nervous, easily startled and over-reactive.
Horses that became pushy or aggressive when worked up also responded but not
completely.
Overall,
we’ve found the best responses were to magnesium in the range of 3 to 10
grams/day. The level of magnesium naturally present in most horses’ diets is
considerably below the 1.5:1 to 2:1 ratio of calcium:magnesium recommended by
some equine nutritionists.
If the
horse isn’t receiving grain or doesn’t accept powders well, we found Foxden’s
Quiessence pellets effective and palatable. Vitamin B
can sometimes enhance the response to magnesium. Horses are calmer but alert and
full coordinated, not at all “drugged.”
Thiamine
has a long history of use as a calming supplement for horses, either orally or
intravenously by a vet in combination with calcium. It doesn’t work 100% of the
time, but when it does the results are very good with nervous and anxious
horses. Dosage is 500 to 1000 mg/day. Of the
available herbal supplements, valerian produces the most obvious effects. With valerian-only, it takes about a
week to see a difference, while with valerian-combination products, some calming
was noted in a few days, more noticeable after 10 days to three weeks.
| Desensitizing |
|
Many
classical training/learning techniques are routinely used in dealing with
horses. These include:
Positive
Reinforcement: Treats for properly performed tricks/tasks, a pat, a “good
boy.” Negative Reinforcement: Removal of a negative stimulus as reward – e.g.
release of bit pressure when the horse slows or stops. Punishment: Use of
spurs or crop if the horse does not respond to weight, legs or
voice.
A 2006
study performed at the Danish Institute of Agricultural Sciences looked at the
response to some traditional learning tools when the goal was to eliminate
fearfulness. They used two-year-old stallions and a flapping white plastic bag
as the scary stimulus. They used five three-minute training sessions per day.
Methods tested were:
Habituation: Exposure to the full
stimulus. Desensitization: Horses were gradually introduced to the bag, then
to gradual increases in its movement. The horse did not move onto the next step
until it had shown no reaction to the previous one. Counter-conditioning. The
horse was given positive reinforcement (food) immediately before being exposed
to the full stimulus. The horses
trained by the desensitization method showed fewer flight responses and required
fewer training sessions in total to learn to accept the frightening bag.
“Sacking
out” is desensitization. Another example of putting this into practice would be
horses frightened of clippers. To follow this method, you would allow the horse
to see the clippers and cords at a distance then up close, moving on to touching
the horse with them around his head and forequarters, then all over his body.
The next step would be turning them on at a distance, and moving closer in
increments. Final desensitization would involve touching the horse for brief
periods with the vibrating clippers, all over his body, finally actually
clipping. Keep the steps small, and don’t move on until the horse is showing no
fearful reactions. |
While the
horses were calmer, or even “dopey” in their stalls, the effects didn’t
necessarily hold when the horse was stimulated. Horses that were hard to handle
in the paddock, or spooky on rides, seemed to often snap out of the effects of
valerian entirely under those conditions, but it’s a good choice for a horse on
stall confinement.
Bottom Line Before
reaching for a calming supplement, take a detailed look at your problem to see
if management changes or training aren’t better solutions. Make sure there’s no
physical cause for the horse’s behavior, that you’re not actually over-mounted,
that the horse enjoys the type of work you want from him and that you’re not
mistaking a naturally high energy level and zest for life for a behavior
problem. You can’t change personality.
If it truly
is a situation where a supplement might help, first try adding magnesium oxide
or thiamine alone to the horse’s diet. If this doesn’t work, we’d consider a
commercial product that combines these ingredients. The nutritional approaches
gave more consistent and reliable results with our test
horses.
Of the
products we’ve used, Seroquine, At Ease and ExStress produced excellent, solid
results in our field-trial horses. Seroquine gets the nod for potency and price.
If your
nervous horse also gets aggressive, we suggest you try either L-tryptophan
alone, as is found in B-Kalm paste (which may work at even a half dose), or in
combination with magnesium and B vitamins, a combo we like in At Ease.
Effects
with the herbal-based products were milder and less reliable in our test horses,
but with valerian producing the most obvious effects when dosing was high
enough. Equilite’s Equine Relax Blend, the valerian-based formula, worked the
best. Its combination of valerian with milder but more-rapid-acting herbs
produced results quickly with peak effect in about two weeks.
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Stumble It!
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Magnesium And Thiamine Are No. 1 Nutrients For Calming Horses
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