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Magnesium And Thiamine Are No. 1 Nutrients For Calming Horses
Valerian shows results, too, but its effects may be limited to times the horse isn't otherwise stimulated, such as when he's in a stall.

If you’re looking for a quick-fix tranquilizer alternative that will instantly transform your horse into an automaton, this article isn’t for you.

Anyone with a horse that is too strong, too energetic, too eager, too forward for the job they want done, or for their level of riding expertise, needs a new horse, a trainer or both. You and the horse will be better off for it. Time, patience and retraining should also be used in an effort to solve behavior problems before hoping for a fix from a supplement.

Valerian and Performance Horses

Valerian has long been on the list of prohibited substances for horses competing in events that have a drug policy. Now that there is actually a test available, you need to realize that if you use this herb you could get caught.

Also, while effects are generally less pronounced than with drugs or common antidepressants that may have similar effects on the nervous system, the safety and effectiveness has not been determined for horses, especially for long-term use. Withdrawal symptoms have been reported in other species.

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A stallbound horse might need a calmative.
Sorting Through
Before even considering a supplement, it can be helpful to define the problem you’re having:

  • Horse was previously fine but develops behavior issues under saddle.
  • This could be a sign that the horse is hurting. Before doing anything else, make a list of things that trigger the behavior, such as being asked to jump, assume a canter lead, going up or down hills. These can be important clues to where the horse might be hurting. A horse like this may also simply be “sour,” bored with its routine.

  • Horse was recently purchased and was fine with the old owner and fine when you tried her out, but at your barn is showing behavior issues.
  • We hope you had your vet draw blood to hold for drug testing as part of your prepurchase exam. Both short- and long-term tranquilizers (30 days or longer from a single treatment) can be used to make horses behave well for prospective buyers.

    If you’re sure that’s not the problem, the horse may be testing you to see what she can get away with (try her with a more experienced handler and rider to see what happens), or she may simply be having trouble adjusting to her new environment and routine. Things like the loss of old buddies and changes in the level of turnout can lead to behavior issues. Different causes call for a different management and training approaches.

  • Isolated resistances and phobias.
  • This would include things like resistance to being bridled/haltered, or an inordinate fear of clippers. Depending on the problem, the first step is to rule out a physical cause (like sore ears), but for the most part these are training issues and should be addressed as such, not with drugs or supplements. (See sidebar on densensitization.)



    Grain And Hot Behavior

    While nutritionists agree that feeding grains/corn/sweet feed doesn’t cause sugar-high-related behavior problems like many people have suspected, a grain-fed horse often does have more energy. The exact cause isn’t really clear, but it may be related to their muscles having better stores of the energy source glycogen at their disposal.

    Whatever the reason, the solution is simple. Don’t over-feed concentrates. Grain shouldn’t even be considered unless the horse is doing enough work to be unable to hold a normal weight on free-choice hay and a protein/mineral supplement.  Along the same lines, though, don’t starve your horse in an effort to make him more controllable. If you feel a “need” to do this, consult a trainer for help.

    If the horse does need a more concentrated calorie source, and grain just creates too much of a Jekyll-and-Hyde situation in your horse, try beet pulp for a calmer response.    

  • Behaviors that may involve eyesight.
  • These include reluctance to enter a trailer, hesitation when moving from dark to well-lit areas, spooking, shying and being startled easily when approached from behind or only on one side. A thorough eye check, including the interior of the eye and the field of vision, should be done by a veterinarian or veterinary eye specialist.

    Some horses may have perfectly normal eyes but unusually large corpora nigra, small “balls” of pigmented iris that sit along the upper edge of the pupil. These are believed to normally act as visors against bright light but when large can actually block vision when the horse goes into bright light and the pupil constricts down.

  • Nervousness or personality.
  • Much time, effort and money can be wasted if you are trying to change the horse’s basic personality. If we define “nervousness” as an abnormal reaction, that’s one thing, but horses, like people, have different personalities and different likes and dislikes. Some horses are just naturally “up,” eager, energetic, full of life and looking for action. This is different from nervousness, which includes signs of anxiety/fear, even physical symptoms such as sweating, trembling and diarrhea. It’s important to know the difference. If you try to change a horse that is just simply full of life into a disciplined show horse or bomb-proof trail horse, you’ll both be miserable.



    True Supplement Candidates
    Horses that are overly sensitive to touch or sounds, are genuinely fearful, nervous or anxious in predictable situations, where physical and training issues have definitely been ruled out—and you’re sure it’s not just a matter of the horse being naturally high-spirited—may be helped by the correct supplement. Another scenario for supplement use is horses on forced stall rest. Once you have determined a calming supplement may be useful, the next step is actually picking one.

    To Longe Or Not To Longe


    Longeing before you ride is a common method for letting the horse “get his bucks out” and it works—if you don’t go too far. Longeing a horse that’s feeling good for a few minutes can let him kick and play before he has to work, but if the horse is routinely longed to the point he’s actually getting tired, all you’re doing is getting him fit.

    A better approach is more turnout. If extended turnout isn’t an option at your facility, at least try to get use of a small paddock or round pen before you ride, an area where he can’t really run at high speeds at will but has enough room to let off steam and roll. Turn him loose until antics subside.

    The Abused Horse
    Rescuing a horse from an abusive situation is a noble gesture, and we applaud anyone who has done this. However, many of these horses come with “emotional baggage” that shows up as behavior issues. A horse that has been physically abused will have learned a deep distrust of people and most likely an even deeper distrust of people who resemble the previous abusing owner. Horses that have been beaten for exhibiting behaviors they can’t truly control will become increasingly difficult to handle. This reaction can take many forms, including being easily startled, evasive of contact, extremely fearful or even quite aggressive.

    These horses should always be considered dangerous in the sense that you can’t always accurately predict what might trigger a memory and cause the horse to act in self-defense in a way that could get you injured. You can’t really “blame” the horse for this, nor can you train them out it, or supplement them out of it. It simply takes time to regain their trust. If you have no experience with an abused horse, you definitely should get professional guidance. When handled properly by someone knowledgeable, these horses often form strong bonds, but there are many do’s and don’ts along the way.

    Horses that have been starved but not necessarily physically abused otherwise can also be a problem. Even long past the time when they have regained their weight and should “know” that they can count on being regularly fed, they will often be protective of food, to the point that feeding in a group situation might not be an option. You also need to be careful about getting too close to the horse when he is eating.

    Note: Be aware that, in some horses, aggressive behavior caused by abuse may reappear at any time, even with good, loving care. Precautions and proper handling may be needed long-term.

    Products
    In our “Ingredients And Typical Effects” chart on page 6, we’ve listed the ingredients you’re likely to find in calming products. Unfortunately, little solid equine-specific information is available, so we’re forced to give you common human conditions.

    In our own field trials and experience with horses and calming supplements, we’ve found the best results with thiamine, magnesium or combinations of the two when dealing with horses that are excessively nervous, easily startled and over-reactive. Horses that became pushy or aggressive when worked up also responded but not completely.

    Overall, we’ve found the best responses were to magnesium in the range of 3 to 10 grams/day. The level of magnesium naturally present in most horses’ diets is considerably below the 1.5:1 to 2:1 ratio of calcium:magnesium recommended by some equine nutritionists.

    If the horse isn’t receiving grain or doesn’t accept powders well, we found Foxden’s Quiessence pellets effective and palatable.

    Vitamin B can sometimes enhance the response to magnesium. Horses are calmer but alert and full coordinated, not at all “drugged.”

    Thiamine has a long history of use as a calming supplement for horses, either orally or intravenously by a vet in combination with calcium. It doesn’t work 100% of the time, but when it does the results are very good with nervous and anxious horses. Dosage is 500 to 1000 mg/day.

    Of the available herbal supplements, valerian produces the most obvious effects.  With valerian-only, it takes about a week to see a difference, while with valerian-combination products, some calming was noted in a few days, more noticeable after 10 days to three weeks.

    Desensitizing

    Many classical training/learning techniques are routinely used in dealing with horses. These include:

  • Positive Reinforcement: Treats for properly performed tricks/tasks, a pat, a “good boy.”
  • Negative Reinforcement: Removal of a negative stimulus as reward – e.g. release of bit pressure when the horse slows or stops.
  • Punishment: Use of spurs or crop if the horse does not respond to weight, legs or voice.
  • A 2006 study performed at the Danish Institute of Agricultural Sciences looked at the response to some traditional learning tools when the goal was to eliminate fearfulness. They used two-year-old stallions and a flapping white plastic bag as the scary stimulus. They used five three-minute training sessions per day. Methods tested were:

  • Habituation: Exposure to the full stimulus.
  • Desensitization: Horses were gradually introduced to the bag, then to gradual increases in its movement. The horse did not move onto the next step until it had shown no reaction to the previous one.
  • Counter-conditioning. The horse was given positive reinforcement (food) immediately before being exposed to the full stimulus.

    The horses trained by the desensitization method showed fewer flight responses and required fewer training sessions in total to learn to accept the frightening bag.

    “Sacking out” is desensitization. Another example of putting this into practice would be horses frightened of clippers. To follow this method, you would allow the horse to see the clippers and cords at a distance then up close, moving on to touching the horse with them around his head and forequarters, then all over his body. The next step would be turning them on at a distance, and moving closer in increments. Final desensitization would involve touching the horse for brief periods with the vibrating clippers, all over his body, finally actually clipping. Keep the steps small, and don’t move on until the horse is showing no fearful reactions.

  • While the horses were calmer, or even “dopey” in their stalls, the effects didn’t necessarily hold when the horse was stimulated. Horses that were hard to handle in the paddock, or spooky on rides, seemed to often snap out of the effects of valerian entirely under those conditions, but it’s a good choice for a horse on stall confinement.

    Bottom Line
    Before reaching for a calming supplement, take a detailed look at your problem to see if management changes or training aren’t better solutions. Make sure there’s no physical cause for the horse’s behavior, that you’re not actually over-mounted, that the horse enjoys the type of work you want from him and that you’re not mistaking a naturally high energy level and zest for life for a behavior problem. You can’t change personality.

    If it truly is a situation where a supplement might help, first try adding magnesium oxide or thiamine alone to the horse’s diet. If this doesn’t work, we’d consider a commercial product that combines these ingredients. The nutritional approaches gave more consistent and reliable results with our test horses.

    Of the products we’ve used, Seroquine, At Ease and ExStress produced excellent, solid results in our field-trial horses. Seroquine gets the nod for potency and price.

    If your nervous horse also gets aggressive, we suggest you try either L-tryptophan alone, as is found in B-Kalm paste (which may work at even a half dose), or in combination with magnesium and B vitamins, a combo we like in At Ease.

    Effects with the herbal-based products were milder and less reliable in our test horses, but with valerian producing the most obvious effects when dosing was high enough. Equilite’s Equine Relax Blend, the valerian-based formula, worked the best. Its combination of valerian with milder but more-rapid-acting herbs produced results quickly with peak effect in about two weeks.

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