
Before you seal the deal on your next horse, invest in a prepurchase examination by a qualified equine veterinarian. Here, we’ll tell you why you shouldn’t skip this all-important step and answer frequently asked questions about the exam.
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After months of searching, you’ve found the perfect horse to buy.
You envision long days in the saddle, going on challenging trail rides. All you
need to do is hitch up your horse trailer, head over to the prospect’s current
barn, seal the deal, and drive him home.
Wait! Before you take the plunge, invest in a prepurchase
examination by a qualified equine veterinarian. Here, we’ll tell you why you
shouldn’t skip this all-important step and answer frequently asked questions
about the exam.
Q: Do I really need to schedule a prepurchase exam for my prospect?
A: Yes, you do. You want your new horse to be healthy and sound. A
prepurchase exam is your one chance to acquire important information about a
horse before he becomes
your horse.
Prepurchase exams can be nail-biters, but postpurchase exams can
be stomach-droppers. After an unsatisfactory prepurchase exam, all you have to
do is say "No, thank you" and walk away. A postpurchase exam is another matter
entirely, because all the bad news is about the horse
you already own.
Q: Are all prepurchase exams the same?
A: No, they differ depending on the horse’s projected use. A good
prepurchase exam isn’t generic. It can’t be. Every horse is unique; every rider
is unique. Discuss your plans, goals, and ambitions with your vet when you
schedule the exam, so that it’ll be designed for this horse and for
your purposes.
Q: Will my veterinarian know what to look
for?
A: In general, yes, but you’ll need to have the right vet. Try to use
your own vet, but be aware that you might need to call in a different vet if the
horse you want is outside your vet’s experience in terms of breed, gaits, or
other factors. Also, ask the right questions, based on what you need the horse
to do. If your vet understands your specific requirements and demands, the
answers you get will be much more useful.
Q: Walk me through the exam — what will my veterinarian do
first?
A: Usually, your vet will begin with a quick look at the horse’s
overall conformation, stance, and physical condition. The next step will be to
check the horse’s heart and lungs, eyes and ears, and gut sounds. If everything
is normal, the teeth will be checked next. A dental exam is a good way to
confirm that the horse has had good care; it’s also a way to determine or
confirm a horse’s age.
Q: What about equine protozoal myelitis and other neurological
problems?
A: You might see your veterinarian bend the horse’s neck this way and
that, ask the horse to back or turn in a tight circle, or tap the horse to check
certain reflexes. If there are signs of a possible neurological problem —
whether caused by a mechanical problem, such as an injury, or by a disease —
your vet can perform agreed-upon additional tests.
Q: What about conformation and lameness?
A: If you’re planning on riding the horse over miles of trails, your
veterinarian will be looking closely at conformation, and he or she will be
attentive to even the slightest sign of lameness. If the horse seems sound and
healthy, your vet will evaluate the horse’s structure in terms of the demands
you’ll put on the animal.
If the horse’s conformation doesn’t reveal any potential problems
that could interfere with your plans, the lameness exam will begin. This is a
two-part exam. First, with the horse in his stall or the barn aisle, your vet
will conduct an up-close-and-personal, hands-on investigation. This is the
passive part of the lameness
exam, in which the horse won’t be asked to do anything. Your vet will handle the
horse extensively, palpating
(carefully feeling) the horse’s legs and checking his
bones, joints, muscles, tendons, and ligaments. He or she will likely palpate
the horse’s back. Your vet will also look closely at the shape, balance, size,
and quality of the horse’s feet and hooves, and use hoof testers to check for
any soreness. The old saying "No foot, no horse" is still very true.
The next step will be the active lameness exam, in which
the horse will be asked to move. Your vet will watch closely as the horse is led
at walk, trot, and canter/lope. Then your vet will likely perform flexion tests
(in which various joints are manipulated) to reveal any pain the horse may have
in certain joints, especially those in the lower leg.
If the flexion tests go well, your vet will then ask to see the
horse longed or free-longed in a small circle, preferably on a hard surface. If
the horse seems steady, even, and level at walk, trot, and canter/lope, that’s a
very good sign.

A dental exam is a good way to confirm that the horse has had good care; it’s also a way to determine or confirm a horse’s age.
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Q: What if there’s a small problem, such as a slight lameness?
A: It depends. A slight, almost imperceptible lameness — for example,
the sort that might be revealed only after several minutes of trotting in a
small circle — might be acceptable if you were buying an experienced,
15-year-old horse to carry you gently down the trail. But any lameness in a
4-year-old is cause for concern.
Q: What other kinds of tests are there?
A: Your veterinarian will likely draw blood and store it for later
testing. If your vet and you are concerned about particular illnesses (or the
presence of specific drugs), you can arrange for specific blood tests.
X-rays can reveal bone condition, but they don’t tell the whole
story. Some sound, comfortable horses take "bad" X-rays, while some unsound,
uncomfortable horses take surprisingly clean X-rays.
Not every physical imperfection is an unsoundness; wind puffs, for
example, are considered a blemish. A horse that’s been injured might have a
scar, but no residual lameness. Not every conformation flaw is a deal-breaker,
either.
Q: Will my veterinarian tell me whether the horse passed or
failed?
A: There’s no official "pass" or "fail" on a prepurchase exam; your
vet won’t tell you to buy the horse or walk away. The question you’re asking
your vet isn’t, "Should I buy this horse?" but, "What can you tell me about this
horse’s health and condition today, and does he appear
capable of doing the things that I want him to do?"
Your vet is the expert in horse health, structure, and movement;
his or her job is to identify any existing problems and give you an informed
opinion about any problems the horse may be likely to develop later. The final
decision, though, is all yours. The information provided by the prepurchase exam
should help you make a sensible, informed decision about whether or not this is
the horse for you.
Q: Why do people sometimes complain about prepurchase exams?
A: The two common complaints about prepurchase exams are: "I can’t
believe the vet didn’t check X or Y or Z!" and "I can’t believe how many
expensive tests the vet did!" You can avoid both of these problems by
communicating clearly with your veterinarian about what you want and what you’re
willing to pay.
To get the most from a prepurchase exam, discuss it with your vet
when you make the appointment. You and your vet may have different ideas about
what the exam should include. If you know which tests you want to schedule, list
them. If this is all new to you, or if you’re unsure about which tests would be
best, ask your vet which tests would be most useful and informative, what will
be involved, and how much they’ll
cost.
Q: So, just how much does a prepurchase exam
cost?
A: It depends on the number and types of tests involved. If you want
a horse for light, quiet riding, you won’t need extensive tests designed to
reveal subtle lameness or the potential for lameness in long-distance riding
over rugged terrain. Because your needs are modest, those prepurchase exams
wouldn’t lengthy or expensive.
However, if you want a horse to compete with, you’ll need to
schedule a lengthier and more detailed prepurchase exam. You’ll need to
determine whether the horse is healthy, sound and suitable for what you plan to
do.
Three factors influence the cost of a prepurchase exam: (1) your
location; (2) the prospect’s selling price; and (3) the depth and complexity of
the exam itself. You might pay $120, $1,200, anywhere in between, or possibly
more.
You can safely assume that a quick once-over during which the only
tools used by your veterinarian vet are eyes, hands, stethoscope and
hoof-testers will cost considerably less than a long, extensive exam that also
involves X-rays, an endoscope, various drug tests and an ultrasound exam. Some
test results might indicate a need for more elaborate tests, so be prepared.
When you schedule a prepurchase exam, ask your vet he or she
recommends and what each one will cost. You and your vet should be on the same
page regarding the type and extent of tests to be performed. Don’t guess or rely
on your assumptions; your vet’s idea of a thorough prepurchase exam may be very
different from your own.
If your vet fails to perform certain tests that you wanted but
didn’t request, you’ll be unhappy, and the same will be true if your vet
performs expensive tests that you didn’t know about in advance.
Q: If I don’t buy the horse, that’s all wasted money,
right?
A: Not at all. If you spend several hundred dollars to discover that
a horse isn’t suitable, the prepurchase
exam will have served you well. Investing in a prepurchase exam is like paying
your mechanic for a buyer’s check on a used truck; if you learn that the frame
is bent and the axles are cracked, or, in your case, that the horse’s legs are
unlikely to stand up to your demands, you’ll be glad you got that information
before closing the
deal.