
Ask yourself: Do you really need to paint stuff on your horses hooves?
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Hoof problems are among the most common complaints owners
have—just a scan of a catalog or tack-store shelves and the huge number of
supplements and topical products for hooves bears that out. Of course, optimal
nutrition is the No. 1 solution to hoof problems, and we’re going to address how
to do that and how hoof supplements can fit into the picture in an upcoming
issue. Meanwhile, many common hoof problems—chipping, cracking, thrush and lost
shoes—can be minimized to a large extent by proper hoof care:
Avoid:
• Rasping the hoof wall to remove ridges and make it “look
pretty.” Some rasping is necessary, but it removes the natural waxy covering on
the hoof, so you want to minimize it. Over-rasping makes a hoof more susceptible
to drying, cracking and chipping.
• Routine use of any type of hoof dressing, except for a
specific purpose for a limited amount of time.
• Stretching the time between trims. Every six weeks is
optimal period for most horses.
• Repeated exposure to soaps and shampoos.
Always try
to:
• Pick out the horse’s feet daily and after each ride.
• Keep stalls dry.
• Be sure horses on turnout have an access to dry areas.
• Find a competent farrier.
A correct and careful trim is essential for keeping feet
healthy. Some common errors that
can result in hoof problems are:
1) Over-trimming the horse to counteract paddling or winging,
or medial to lateral (side-to-side) imbalance. This results in uneven weight
distribution through the foot that predisposes to cracking and can lead to joint
problems. The horse moves the way nature intended—for better or worse—and you
can’t make “corrections” on a mature animal.
2) Overly long toes.
This stresses the white line and predisposes to hoof abscesses, “gravels”
and white-line disease.
3) Improper trimming of the frog. If the frog is not in
contact with the ground, all weightbearing shifts to the hoof walls, overloading
them. When accompanied by underrun
heels, heel or quarter cracks may occur.
4) Failure to round off the ground-surface edge of the hoof
wall in a barefoot horse. This is a
surefire way to get hooves chipping and cracking.
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Put It To Use • Optimize nutrition. • Stay timely on trims. • Learn basic hoof care. • Avoid topicals. • Inspect hooves daily. • Skip stimulants. • Exercise daily. |
5) Over-thinning the walls. On a normal bare foot, the walls
at the quarters are somewhat thinner than in the forefoot, which allows
them to
expand a bit on weightbearing. Over-thinning at the quarters
leads to too much
expansion and a risk of cracks.
Over-thinning forward of this also leads to too much expansion and
traction on the white line.
Thinned walls can lead to problems with shoes, too. They may require
using a lighter/thinner
nail than really required by the weight of the
shoe so that the shoes are not
securely held to the feet, and thin
walls are usually more prone to cracks.
6) Failure to trim the frog. Predisposes to
thrush.
7) Failure to properly clinch nails. Incorrect
clinching will can cause loss
of part of the hoof wall if the shoe
comes loose, but filing off the ends of the
nails completely doesn’t
hold the shoe on well, leading to lost shoes and
chipping of the foot
at ground surface.
8) Leaving shoes on too long. Going too long between
resets results in
nail holes widening and shoes coming loose. A
foot that trimmed to accept a shoe
doesn’t withstand chipping well if
the shoe comes off.
Nutrition
While no supplement or topical can substitute
for correct
hoof care, some nutritional problems lead to poor hoof
quality. If your horse also has skin or coat
problems, a
nutritional link to quality issues is even more likely. Some common
dietary deficiencies that
can affect the feet
include:
• Zinc. A common deficiency in hays, often made worse by
excesses of competing minerals such as iron and manganese.
• Protein. Including the essential amino acids lysine and
methionine, which may be deficient even if the total crude protein in
the diet
is adequate.
• Essential fatty acids. Processed grains and dried
hays lose
much of their essential fatty acid content, especially the
omega-3 fats.
• Copper. Another common deficiency, made worse by excess of
other minerals. Copper is essential for the formation of the connective
tissues.
• Cobalt. Cobalt containing vitamin B12 derivatives are
essential for cell division and protein metabolism. B12 is
synthesized from cobalt in the
diet.
• B vitamins.
Everyone connects biotin with
hoof health, but the other Bs are also
important for normal protein
metabolism and skin/connective tissue health.
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Heredity And Hooves While most hoof problems are created, some hoof-quality
characteristics appear to be genetic. As a general rule, breeds that have
remained fairly true to their ancestral, wild horse characteristics, like many
pony breeds, mustangs or Arabians, tend to have naturally good horn quality and
feet an appropriate size for their body.
Bad feet are the kiss of death in the wild, and such horses would not be
likely to survive and reproduce.
It’s a different story with the newer breeds, horses that
have been selectively bred for speed, gait or other physical characteristics
with little, if any, attention paid to their feet, or even selected to have
“dainty” feet that are really too small for the size of their bodies.
White vs. Black The age-old debate about whether dark feet are stronger than
white or striped rages on, and even farriers are divided regarding whether
there’s any difference. A 1996
study performed at the Equine Research Centre, University of Guelph, Canada,
tested sections of hoof wall from white and colored feet and found no
differences in their mechanical properties.
Hoof Growth Stimulants You may have heard if you rub moisturizers into the coronary band, or irritant
creams, the hoof will be stimulated to grow faster. It’s really
not a good idea. Moisturizing the coronary band surface
has
little effect. The most potent
stimulant of hoof growth is
exercise. |
Fixing Problems
How long it takes to correct your horse’s
hoof-quality issues
will depend on the cause. If the hoof wall
has been
rasped or abused with harsh
topicals that strip away
the protective
layer, you’re going to have to wait for
the
hoof wall to grow
down.
1) Correct trimming often can work wonders to help, but
you’ll have to stay on top of it.
Problems that were
trim/shoeing related in the first place usually can be
remedied fairly
quickly, and once the damaged areas of the
foot have grown out
the
problem often will be solved.
2) Examine your horse’s diet carefully evaluated for any
contributing nutritional factors.
3) If your horse has hoof problems, before shampooing your
horse, protect the hoof wall and coronary band with a thin layer of
petroleum
jelly, which you can wipe off when finished.
4) If your horse’s hoof wall has been rasped/smoothed, or
stripped of its waxes by hoof-shine products or harsh topicals, ask
your
veterinarian about the advisability of a hoof sealant to
protect
those areas
while they grow out, but don’t use these
products on the
new hoof growth or get
the products on the
hoof coronet band.
5) Pay attention to balance. The horse’s hoof should show an
equal amount of area on either side of an imaginary line down
the
center of the
frog. Breakover should be centered directly
in front of
the point of the frog.
After the trim, watch the
horse walk coming
toward you. The foot should land flat, not one
side
before the
other. Make sure flares are removed.
6) With barefoot horses, make sure the edges of the hoof
wall
at ground level are slightly rounded.
7) With horses losing shoes and breaking up their feet,
consider going barefoot, or barefoot with boots, until the damaged
areas grow
out, or go with glue-on shoes.
8) Learn the basics of hoof care. Ask your farrier to
show you the correct
way to remove a sprung shoe and how to
smooth off
areas starting to chip. It’s
also wise to always
keep a boot or two on
hand to use in the event the horse
loses
a shoe.
Bottom Line
Good nutrition and farrier care are the
cornerstones to healthy, strong
hooves.