Before you begin a barefoot-transition program, consult a veterinarian and farrier who know your horse. They’ll evaluate your horse’s foot health and advise you on what problems to expect. If you pursue the “natural” route, attend several seminars with experts before signing on to a guru’s program. Here, Hiltrud Strasser, DVM, checks a clinic attendee’s horse.
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From coast-to-coast, natural-horse promoters are advising horse owners to pull
their horses’ shoes so that the animals may enjoy the comfort of the barefoot
life. You’re tempted to do the same, but you’re not sure if it’s a viable option
for your horse. Before you take the plunge, slow down, and learn a little more
about your horse’s hooves. The payoff might spare your horse a lot of pain — and
keep you in the saddle.
Here, we’ll take you into the front lines, where hoof-care professionals are
working to serve the needs of both horse and rider. To help you make a sound
decision about your horse’s feet, we’ve enlisted the help of two top experts:
Lisa Simons Lancaster, PhD, DVM, is a farrier and hoof researcher. She’s the
author of the landmark book, The Sound Hoof: Horse Health from the Ground Up
(available at www.hoofcare.com). An avid rider, Dr. Lancaster conducts research
on internal hoof structure at Michigan State’s Equine Foot Laboratory.
Tia Nelson, DVM, of Helena, Montana, has been a farrier for 26 years and a
barefoot hoof-care proponent for most of that time. Her interest in hooves sent
her to veterinary school; her clients’ horses were barefoot when barefoot
certainly wasn’t cool. She’s particularly interested in the effects of
environment and hard ground on the hoof’s ability to self-maintain its shape and
strength.
With the help of these experts, we’ll give you seven steps to keeping your
horse sound while making the barefoot transition. Along the way, we’ll describe
the dangers of radical trimming. We’ll also give you a checklist to
whether your shod horse might be a good candidate for living the barefoot life
, a glossary of terms used in the article
, and a resource guide to hoof boots, which many trail
riders use to protect their horses’ hooves on harsh terrain. But first, here’s a
bit of horseshoe history.
Horseshoe History
Every list of Western civilization’s great inventions includes two pieces of
horse equipment: the stirrup and the horseshoe. The stirrup enabled mounted
warriors to balance themselves in battle, and even loose a crossbow or heave a
spear from the back of a galloping horse.
The horseshoe, we might assume, enabled cavalry units, chariots, and supply
wagons to move mighty armies across the landscape. Horses, of course, could
already move great distances, left to their own devices. The horseshoe was
actually an equalizer tool, enabling armies to round up soft-footed local
remount horses from wet, low-lying regions and keep moving across mountains and
deserts.
If a horse is left alone in his own home environment, pastured on a uniform,
firm surface similar to ground on which he works, and properly conditioned to
the work demanded of him, he’ll probably live a sound life without shoes.
However, we continue to shoe our horses to serve our needs; horseshoes act as a
safety net in case the hooves aren’t acclimatized or tough enough for the task
at hand. Horseshoes help a horse to perform at the convenience of the owner,
without hoof conditioning.
But today, image is everything. Metal and even plastic horseshoes don’t fit
well in the image of a back-to-nature horse as prescribed by many leaders of
today’s natural-horse movement. Bitless bridles and treeless saddles suggest
that riders are more comfortable on the trail, so shouldn’t we remove those
ancient steel crescents from the hooves? Aren’t those nails a barbaric harbinger
of the Middle Ages? Read on for answers that may surprise you.
|
| Barefoot-Transition Checklist
Here’s a checklist to help you evaluate whether your shod horse might be a
good candidate for living the barefoot life.
• You’ve enlisted the aid and involvement of a professional farrier — either
one who usually shoes or an experienced trimmer — and a veterinarian who agree
that your horse is likely to succeed without shoes.
• Your horse is healthy, fit, and young to middle-aged. He’s neither
overweight nor underweight, and isn’t handicapped by limb or hoof capsule
deformities. (Note: Older horses may require more time to adapt, but they’re
often most deserving of the shoeless life.)
• You’re a healthy, fit, observant rider with time to exercise your horse
daily and provide hands-on care. Or, your horse is cared for and ridden by
someone who shares your interest in trying to trail ride without shoes.
• You give your horse ample turnout, preferably with good drainage and firm
ground similar to the terrain on which you typically ride.
• You plan to pull your horse’s shoes in the beginning of fall, as you head
into a time when your horse may have a lighter workload. |
Step 1: Consider the pros and cons. Of course, your horse
can survive without
his shoes. As mentioned, horseshoes are a human
convenience. For example, you
might create a need for extra protection
by deciding to take him on a
once-a-month 10-mile trek in the mountains
over rock and shale. Horseshoes are
also a handy support and therapy
option for horses troubled by lameness or
injury.
Barefoot considerations: There are two primary advantages of pulling your
horse’s shoes: One, you might (but not necessarily) spend less money
maintaining
his feet, and two, his feet won’t be damaged by repetitive
shoeing. The latter
is especially true if the quality of shoeing,
shoes, and nails used have been
substandard.
However, many horses "left" barefoot are also neglected. Many unshod
broodmares and older horses don’t receive adequate professional care,
leaving
their feet cracked, diseased, and misshapen. This "barefoot"
image tends to make
veterinarians and farriers skeptical when owners
proudly announce that they want
to pull off their horses’ shoes. (Note:
For the purpose of this article, a
farrier is a professionally trained
person who cares for a horse’s hooves, with
or without shoes.)
Sound, barefoot trail horses have hooves that are managed, not neglected.
Over time, the conditioned hoof becomes thicker and more robust, with a
wide
leathery frog and open heels. But it takes a magic formula of
nutrition,
exercise on firm surfaces, circulation, and judicious
trimming to achieve this
highly conditioned state.
With or without shoes, there’s always a risk your horse could go lame. No one
can guarantee that your newly barefoot horse will be sound by a certain
date, or
that he’ll be able to handle a certain trail or distance. Only
time and
conditions will tell.
Note that until the 1990s, most horses in northern climates went barefoot in
the winter. There were few winter shows, few indoor arenas, and only
horses that
had foot problems or really needed to work wore snow pads.
Today, snow pads,
traction nails, and anti-slip shoe modifications are
de rigueur. Indoor arenas
are also more common, and some think horses
are safer in winter turnout if shod
for traction; thus, many horses are
shod all year.
Until the year-round shoeing trend, an owner decided in the spring whether or
not to shoe the horse. Some delayed shoeing until summer, when the
ground
hardened. Others decided to shoe one year and not another, as
the horse’s level
of use changed.
Shoeing considerations: Many new horseshoes are on the market; there’s an
entire new class of products classified as "soft shoeing." Varying
densities of
plastic polymers can now be combined in a single shoe to
give support and
cushioning where needed. The future for synthetic
shoes looks bright, even as
new forging and casting techniques make
top-of-the-line steel horseshoes
available with clips, wider heels, toe
wear inserts, and even inner-edge
traction.
Keep in mind that horseshoe-material quality and application affects a
horse’s foot. Some farriers charge more than others, but use inferior
shoes and
nails. Others may charge less and yet use higher-quality
materials. A highly
skilled farrier may get excellent results from an
inexpensive shoe because of
his or her foot-preparation, fitting, and
nailing skills. Conversely, an
unskilled or rushed farrier may damage a
horse’s foot by applying an expensive
imported European horseshoe
that’s a size too small.
Before you jump to the conclusion that shoeing is an evil practice, keep in
mind that you’re responsible for your horse’s soundness and fitness,
qualities
you must nurture over your horse’s lifetime. You choose
who’ll shoe or trim your
horse, and who’ll treat lameness or health
problems. You’re responsible for your
past choices, as well as their
long-term effects.
If your horse’s hooves have been misshapen by years of wearing shoes that may
or may not have been properly fit and applied and changed or reset at a
recommended interval, don’t panic. Your horse’s heels didn’t contract
overnight;
you just learned to recognize the signs of long-term
"over-shod horse syndrome."
But don’t let anyone make you feel guilty;
a good farrier can help correct your
horse’s problems with or possibly
without shoes.
1. Artificial shoes made from resin or urethane can replace shoes on some sore-footed horses, especially in an emergency. 2. Marks on the bottom of the hoof show the hoof center and the widest part of the foot. The lower line shows where the new breakover will be. 3. The bottom of a hoof, after trimming; note how much closer the point of the frog is to the toe. 4. This side view of the foot shows a compact hoof capsule that will efficiently carry a horse and rider.
|
Step 2: Consult professionals. Across the country, more
trail riders are
successfully enjoying their barefoot horses over tough
terrain. What’s
their
secret? They have a team of
knowledgeable professionals helping
them through the
process.
And, as we learn more about managing this
transition, the process
should become simpler.
In the meantime, do you have the resources you need to help your horse? To
make sure, see the "Barefoot-Transition Checklist," below. Pay special
attention
to the number-one item: enlisting the services of a
professional farrier and
veterinarian who agree that your
horse is
likely to succeed without shoes. Find
professionals
who’ll return your
calls and agree to see your horse whenever
necessary; close proximity
is key. Don’t count on online
friends or company
representatives with
products to sell.
Their advice can be valuable, but they
can’t evaluate
your
horse in the flesh.
Many barefoot opinion leaders are sincere practitioners with plenty of
information to share, and you can learn from them. But beware of anyone
who
prescribes a "one trim fixes all" approach to every horse
or
someone whose
experience was gleaned from a weekend course.
Don’t let a
novice trimmer learn
on your horse.
Never underestimate the value of a professional opinion, whether it’s from a
farrier, a veterinarian, or both. If your current veterinarian/farrier
isn’t
interested in your shoeless goals, ask for a referral to
someone
who is. Chances
are, he or she knows who’s good at
keeping barefoot
horses sound.
Step 3: Work with your farrier. Most "traditional" farriers declare that
they’d rather trim horses than shoe them and are delighted to work with
owners
who choose not to shoe. However, they may become
disgruntled if
they feel your
horse isn’t receiving proper
care. They might also
object to trim
recommendations quoted
from a website that aren’t
suitable for your horse. A
farrier
who’s seen an owner neglect a horse
with thrush or white line disease
in
the past isn’t likely to be
confident in that owner’s
long-term commitment to
caring for a barefoot
horse.
Many farriers also feel that barefoot hoof care is a fad and resent so-called
experts who write volumes on a specific hoof structure,
without
considering the
big picture of the whole foot, which
is, of course,
connected to a living horse.
Farriers are
taught to look not just at
the bottom of a foot, but the way a
horse stands, how the foot lands,
and the way the leg is
constructed. They know
that if weight falls
unevenly on parts
of the foot, the hoof capsule will tell
the story.
Farriers
work to support the foot’s attempt to bear weight and move
the
horse.
A farrier’s job is to care for a horse’s hooves so that the horse will be
useful to his owner for work or recreation. Fifteen years ago, the
market was
flooded with plastic pads that promised to cushion
a horse
from hard ground and
protruding rocks. Today, some
horse owners want to
gallop over rocks to see if
their horses’
bare hooves are tough enough
to take the abuse. That’s a big
change.
Dr. Lancaster questions the "barefoot or bust" pressure that some owners put
on their horses. "Like many farriers, I recognize that the bare foot is
often
able to do the work of a shod foot, and also that
barefoot
rehabilitation of
disease or lameness is often highly
effective," she
says.
"I was initially inspired by successful barefoot practitioner Jaime Jackson
[of Camarillo, California, author of The Natural Horse and Horse
Owner’s Guide
to Natural Hoof Care] to try gearing my practice
to
barefoot performance horses.
In doing so, I’ve observed
more cases than
I’d previously thought possible in
which bare
feet are adequate or
perhaps even more desirable than shod feet. And
yet, like farriers in
general, I recognize that many horses
simply cannot do
their jobs
without shoes."
Farriers may well be disturbed when they see a formerly sound horse limping
and are told that the pain is occurring because the horse "can now feel
his
feet," and there’s no plan on the owner’s part to treat
the
lameness, or consult
a veterinarian.
|
| The Cruelest Cut
A hoof knife is sharp and can cause a great deal of damage if it slips in
your hand. Whether made intentionally or unintentionally, a deep cut into a
horse’s foot can lame him for months or even permanently. Some barefoot
advocates believe horses need radical trimming — more like surgery than farriery
— to begin their barefoot experience. Once trimmed, they may recommend forced
exercise, often against the horse’s will. In some cases, this "death marching"
is prescribed as a therapeutic treatment for laminitis.
In the United States, humane groups and veterinary boards haven’t challenged
radical barefoot trimming as veterinary malpractice, although the Guild of
Professional Farriers has warned horse owners of potential harm. But in Great
Britain, the situation is different. The British Equine Veterinary Association,
Farriers Registration Council, International League for the Protection of
Horses, and especially the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to
Animals have all issued warnings to horse owners to not allow their horses to be
intentionally lamed by radical barefoot trimming practitioners.
The RSPCA has taken two British practitioners to court on cruelty charges. In
January 2006, a hoof trimmer was found guilty of cruelty in not seeking
veterinary care for a horse with chronic laminitis under her care.
"Lame But Proud" isn’t a banner under which most owners would like to see
their horses. Routine hoof trimming shouldn’t result in anything but the mildest
discomfort, if that. If your horse is lame, contact your veterinarian. Soaking
boots may be helpful equipment in the early weeks of shoelessness. Seek
veterinary advice on the best way to alleviate painful hoof soles and hoof walls
before you start a trimming protocol.
Check references of anyone who offers to work on your horse, and ask to see
sound horses that have been under this person’s care for at least a year. |
Some farriers may be more interested than others in your quest for a sound
barefoot horse. Talk to your farrier honestly before you ask him or her
to pull
your horse’s shoes. He or she may give you
new
information
about your horse’s
feet that you’ll
need to
consider.
Make sure that anyone you hire understands that trail riding is your goal and
that your horse’s welfare is tantamount. Many
"natural"
farriers have
excellent
communication
skills and will work
with owners to understand
the value of
daily
exercise,
turnout, and supportive surfaces. Such
suggestions don’t replace
professional-level horse-handling
and
trimming skills, years
of experience, and
an
understanding that you
wish to ride your
horse on the trail on
a daily or
weekly schedule.
"So why call myself a farrier if my business is limited to trims?" muses Dr.
Lancaster, who recently graduated from veterinary college and will be
expanding
her services. "I have not renounced my intention to
shoe. I
am not against
shoeing. I am not, in the
words of many
barefoot
advocates, a ‘former farrier’
or an ‘ex-farrier’ or a
‘converted
farrier’ or any
number of other terms
implying
something ‘beyond’ an
ordinary farrier.
"A farrier’s job is to care for the hoof," she concludes. "That’s what I’ve
always done."
Should you use a "big truck" shoe-oriented farrier or a "hoof hugger" natural
farrier? Competent natural farriers are hard to find
in many
areas, and
some
shoeing-specialist farriers
may try to
convince you that it is
easier to just
keep the shoes on if
you want to keep riding. Weigh your
options, and choose the
most experienced professional
who has the best
interest of
your horse at heart,
regardless of what’s on the business
card.
Step 4: Consider the trim. Most responsible experts agree that "the slow
approach" is preferable to an aggressive trim that may cause lameness.
The best
trim for your horse is one that takes him a step
closer to
ideal hoof balance.
Taking too much sole,
heel, bar,
or wall at once
can damage the foot, and isn’t
necessary.
Judicious trimming makes the
bars, sole
and frog share the
weight-bearing on a shoeless hoof but it
may not be possible,
or wise, to
recruit them in the
first trim.
If your horse feels progressively sure on his newly bare feet as each week
passes, he’ll be a pleasure to ride. If he fears for his hooves, he’ll
take
short strides, will fatigue easily, and won’t be a
pleasant or
safe mount for
anyone.
Step 5: Manage problems. The most common problems in newly bare hooves are a
shortened stride, tender soles, and, in some cases, extreme soreness.
Your horse
may be sore simply because he’s using his foot
ligaments
differently. However,
most of the time,
soreness
results when too much
sole, heel, bar, and/or wall
has been
trimmed away, or the foot isn’t
level. These
problems resolve with
time, but require first-aid, such as
soaking, sole-packing,
and applying a foot
wrap. You
might even need to
have the
trimmer return to level the
foot.
Barefoot horses can be abscess victims and may even develop laminitis. (On
the other hand, some chronically lame horses respond positively to shoe
removal.) Another source of lameness is the sudden
over-lowering of the
heels,
particularly on a club
foot or on
a horse with chronic navicular
or heel pain.
If you’re unsure
of your horse’s lameness history,
arrange a consultation
between your veterinarian and
farrier; x-rays
will likely be
needed to evaluate
inner structures.
|
| Troubles Down the Trail?
You finally hit the trail with your sound, barefoot horse. You’ve followed
all the advice, ridden regularly around home, and his feet are looking tougher
and stronger than ever before.
But what if something goes wrong while you’re far from home? First, if you
plan to trailer your horse, make sure your trailer mats are in good condition;
don’t transport your horse on thin mats or a bare floor. Note that the new
Soft-Ride boots with gel inserts (right) are excellent for transporting horses;
they’ll also provide temporary comfort to a sore-footed horse. However, they’re
not safe for riding.
Pack the following first-aid items in case you’ll need to protect a sore
foot: Sole Pack Hoof Packing (a soothing menthol hoof-packing material available
from KV Vet Supply, 800/423-8211; www.kvvet.com), a sock or small, disposable
diaper, and a roll of duct tape. Also carry a temporary hoof boot (or, ideally,
two).
If your horse starts to shorten his stride or limp, dismount immediately.
Loosen the girth, and detach or loosen any draw reins, martingale, tie-down, or
crupper. Examine each of his feet to make sure that he hasn’t stepped on a sharp
object. Feel for any heat or swelling around the coronet.
Allow your sore horse to show you where he wants to stand. This might be a
softer patch of ground, a sandy area, or a firm surface. If you’re near a stream
or pond, standing him in water may help.
If your horse doesn’t recover after a half-hour rest break, use your
first-aid supplies to pack the hoof, then secure the sock or diaper over it with
duct tape. Or, apply the hoof boot to the foot that seems to be causing him the
most pain. Don’t ride your horse; lead him back to the barn or trailer. |
Artificial arena footing can also cause problems; some is highly abrasive,
causing thinning of the hoof sole and wall, which can cause soreness.
To avoid
this, ride and work your barefoot horse on natural
footing
only.
Bare feet require the same observant care as shod feet. Examine your horse’s
feet every morning and night. Place your hands around the coronet and
hoof wall,
and notice any unusual heat. Run your hand down the
back of
the fetlock and feel
for any
elevated pulse.
Call your
veterinarian
immediately if
you suspect a
problem.
Also, be aware of any abnormal stance posture, advises Dr. Nelson. "The horse
may point, that is, rest a single front foot
noticeably in
front of its
pair,
often
placing more
weight on the straighter
leg," she notes. "Or,
you may see
your horse shifting weight
from leg to
leg. And he may not
want to be ‘forward’
under
saddle." Track your
horse’s willingness to
change
leads and turn before
and after a trim.
Watch weather and surface changes, as well, she says. "It seems that the
terrain the horse lives in all the time is a big factor," she notes. "A
soft,
wet environment leads to a soft, wet
foot. If
that’s
where the
horse is ridden,
it’s no big deal.
If not, the horse
may end up with
solar bruises if you ride on
hard ground;
start slowly."
Step 6: Be flexible. Dr. Nelson considers herself a good
hand at trimming
barefoot horses for her customers, but even she finds
her farrier
skills meet
their match occasionally. "Some horses
do not do
well
barefoot, regardless of
how well the
owner is
paying
attention," she
says. "It’s not
anyone’s fault. If
a horse is
reluctant to walk on
gravel, but moves
willingly on grass, he may’ve
been
trimmed a bit
short or may
not have a tough enough foot
just yet. This may
or may not
indicate that the
individual is
too sensitive to be barefoot.
If he’s
shifting on the front
feet — the hind feet
usually don’t seem to be
much trouble
—
then
a sole
toughener, more time, or both may help."
Dr. Nelson also has found that horses with thin hoof walls also have thin
soles, thus aren’t good candidates for going barefoot. "How a horse
adapts to
going barefoot is best judged on an individual
basis;
different horses will be
on different
timetables," she
says. "And some
horses may never
accept being
barefoot. I care
for three geldings
owned
by one
family here in Montana: a
Tennessee Walking Horse, a Quarter
Horse, and a
Paint. The
Paint hates to be
barefoot;
the other two
seem
to care not."
If your horse fails the barefoot test by continuing to show the above
symptoms, reevaluate how the trim is affecting the foot, extend the
time, and
consult your veterinarian. If this fails, plan to
give your
horse a few months
off, or reapply his
shoes.
Step 7: Give your horse time. Your horse will require at
least three or four
months to show you how well he’s truly adapting to
his new shoeless
life.
However, you can and should exercise
him as long as he’s
sound
and not in pain.
If he’s in pain, call your
veterinarian. Pain isn’t
"part of the process"; it
can be
caused by
any number of foot and leg
problems,
and only a trained
veterinarian can advise you.
Riding regularly will help condition the hooves, but if you’re headed on a
long ride, consider hoof boots. Hoof-boot design varies widely; look
for a model
designed specifically for trail riding without
steel shoes.
You might need to
experiment to find the
size,
shape, and fastening
system that suits your
horse
best. He
might need boots on just his
front
feet or
on all four.
Dr. Lancaster warns that hoof boots may not be the answer for every horse.
"Despite the belief of barefoot advocates that boots are the ‘ideal’
substitute
for shoes, if the bare hoof isn’t up to the job, I
haven’t
found this to be
true," she cautions. "I do
have
clients using boots
and they’re a terrific
option in certain
circumstances. But they’re not
for
every owner or every horse.
It makes no sense for
me to ‘renounce’
shoeing, especially of
performance horses
[including
endurance
horses]."
If you plan to use hoof boots, start with short rides near home. Your horse
will have time to adjust to the boots, and you’ll learn how to remove,
clean,
and fine-tune them so that trail use will be easy. Keep
the
boots clean, and
watch for rub marks on
pasterns
and heel
bulbs. You
can carry spare boots in
case
your barefoot horse
becomes tender on the
trail, but this
isn’t ideal; he
shouldn’t
learn to associate the trail
with pain.
|
GLOSSARY
Bar: Continuation of the hoof-wall horn around the heel.
Club foot: A deformed hoof that has high heels and a steep hoof wall, with or
without a dish in the toe.
Coronet: The junction of hoof wall and pastern; the "hairline."
Frog: The fleshy triangular pad on the bottom of the horse’s foot.
Hoof capsule: The horny covering of the foot, similar to your fingernail.
Hoof heels (open heels vs. contracted heels): Turning points of the hoof wall
that may be pinched inward ("contracted") or slope forward ("underrun") from
long-time hoof capsule distortion.
Hoof sole: The ground surface of the foot surrounding the frog; the uniform
area inside the white line and hoof wall.
Hoof wall: See hoof capsule, above.
Laminitis: A painful inflammation of the lining of the inner hoof wall
(called the laminae), often leading to a serious condition called founder and
long-term lameness.
Navicular bone: A small bone in the back of the foot, which is commonly
injured and subject to pain.
Thrush: A foul-smelling bacterial infection of the frog.
Solar bruises: Damaged areas on the sole caused by internal or external
trauma; may not be visible on all feet. Solar bruises in the heel area are
called corns.
Sole packing: An application of a soothing buttery mixture to the soles and
frogs to alleviate soreness.
White line: The margin between the laminae and the hoof sole.
White line disease: An infection inside the hoof wall. |
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