Your trail saddle's riggingthe system of leather straps and hardware to which the cinch or girth is attachedshould keep your saddle level and still, and distribute pressure evenly at the middle of the saddle. Shown is V-shaped, or three-point rigging.

You’ve decided to replace your trail saddle and bridle designed for other uses with those made for miles on the trails. You want a trail saddle that puts less bulk between your leg and your horse. Plus, you’re seat bones are sore and you dream of a trail saddle with a gel seat. Or perhaps you’ve decided to trail ride more often. 

Before you head for the tack shop or down the Internet cyber-trail, get a leg up on trail saddles and tack with the following tips. First, we’ll give you a rundown on today’s trail saddles, then we’ll tell you about bridles, breastcollars, cruppers, and other trail tack. We’ll also tell you about a few rider-comfort add-ons. (For contact information of brand names listed, see “Trail Saddle & Tack Resources” on page 67.)

Trail-Saddle Priorities
Quality. Buy your saddle from a manufacturer you trust; your safety on the trail may depend on it. If you’re negotiating rugged terrain five hours out from the trailhead, you don’t want to discover that your “bargain” saddle was put together with tacks and glue instead of nails and stitching—or that your horse is being rubbed raw by the rough edges of a cheap nylon bridle. If you’re on a budget, and have to choose between a good used saddle and a cheap, poorly made new one, go for the used one. And whether you’re buying used or new, always check the soundness and straightness of the saddle’s tree (internal skeleton).

Comfort. Look for a saddle that’s comfortable for both you and your horse. A trail saddle with flexible trees or angled bars will accommodate your athletic trail horse’s wide, mobile shoulders and active, muscular back. Gel or neoprene padding under the saddle’s seat can make up for lack of natural padding over your seat bones. Today’s trail saddles are designed with a narrower twist (the change of bar angle from the horse’s withers/shoulder area to his rib cage) and fewer layers under your leg than older-model saddles. Plus, they feature stirrup fenders positioned under (rather than in front of) your body. These features will help you to maintain an easy, centered, balanced position, which, in turn, will enhance both your comfort and your control.  

Fit. Your trail saddle should give your horse maximum freedom of movement; be sure it doesn’t contact his spine, or rub his shoulders or hips. If you don’t feel confident of your ability to judge saddle fit, watch your horse closely. If he’s moving out easily and freely, with long strides and a swinging back, he’s telling you he’s comfortable. If he’s moving with short strides, a high head, and a tense, rigid back, he’s telling you that he’s unhappy with the saddle fit or adjustment. Either way, believe him. (To learn more about saddle fit, check into About Saddle Fit, a videotape produced by David Genadek, Master Saddle Maker; 800/449-7409; www. aboutthehorse.com.)

Important note: If you’re tempted to use an extra-thick saddle pad or add an extra pad or two for a long trail ride, stop right there. If your saddle fits well, “padding up” will make it too tight, and your horse will be uncomfortable. If your saddle doesn’t fit well, padding won’t fix the problem. A saddle pad’s job is to protect the underside of the saddle from dirt and sweat, not to protect your horse’s back from a saddle that doesn’t fit. For successful trail rides, find a saddle that fits your horse, and then add one simple, clean, dry, not-too-thick pad.

Convenience. Look for saddles with sturdy saddle strings and/or D-rings on which to attach saddlebags—both on the pommel and the cantle.

Decisions, Decisions
Once you’ve decided on the type of trail saddle, you have further choices to make: leather or synthetic? What type of rigging? What type of cinch or girth? Following is a bit about saddle material and accessories. 

A saddle built for trail riding offers comfort for both you and your horse. An Australian stock saddle (above) is one popular choice. If you plan to ride on hills, stabilize your saddle with a breastcollar and crupper (right).

Traditional leather. These days, most top saddle manufacturers make saddles specifically designed for trail riding. If you’re devoted to one brand of performance saddle—such as Abetta, Big Horn, Bona Allen, Circle Y, Crates, Reinsman, Simco, Smith Brothers, Tex Tan, Tucker, Weaver—you won’t have to change brands to buy your trail saddle. But do some comparison shopping before you buy. For instance, if you’ve always ridden in a Western saddle, try out a few Australian, English, and endurance saddles. (Two top endurance-saddle makers are Frank Marciante and Sharon Saare.) Also, look into treeless saddles, such as the Sports Saddle from Bob Marshall. Compare quality, comfort, fit, and convenience, as described earlier.

Synthetics. Leather is the traditional saddle material, of course, but there’s a lot to be said for today’s lightweight, durable synthetics. Think synthetic if you’re a casual or infrequent trail rider, or if lifting a heavy saddle onto your horse’s back is a problem for you. If you have a hard time finding time to clean and maintain leather tack, note that synthetic tack can be hosed down and left to dry.

Fabtron makes lightweight, leather look-alike Cordura nylon saddles for trail; Wintec makes good-quality synthetic saddles in both Western and English models. Your choices go well beyond those two brands—today, every manufacturer from Abetta to Weaver seems to be producing synthetic tack.

Note: Neoprene-lined products are made for equine comfort, and most of the time, they do exactly that. However, some horses have a bad reaction to neoprene. Find out how neoprene affects your horse before you invest in a set of neoprene-lined equipment. If he likes it, Professional’s Choice makes comfortable, sturdy cinches and girths lined with waffle-weave pattern neoprene.

Saddle rigging. Your trail saddle’s rigging is the system of leather straps attached to a D-ring (or other point anchored to the saddle’s tree or skirt) and to which the cinch or girth is attached. There are three main types of rigging: single rigging (one cinch), double rigging (front and back cinch), and V-shaped or three-point rigging (front and back straps come together to attach to a single ring, forming a V shape). Your rigging system should keep your saddle level and still, and distribute pressure evenly at the middle of the saddle.  

Rigging tips: If you ride in rough terrain in a double-rigged Western saddle, be sure to hook up the connector strap that links the front and rear cinches for stability. Note that an optional English-style rigging system on some trail saddles allows you to adjust the girth from the saddle, which can come in handy, especially if you’re “vertically challenged.” Tucker Saddlery offers a choice of four different rigging styles on its trail saddles, including the one that will let you use an English girth.

Cinch/girth. Cinches and girths are available in a wide array of materials and styles. Whether you choose mohair, Trevira cord, or leather, fleece- or neoprene-lined, contoured or straight, be sure that your horse is comfortable wearing it. A girth sore can sideline him for weeks or even months, so look for a quality product from a trustworthy manufacturer. Toklat Originals offers cinches and girths in a wide variety of materials to suit every saddle and rigging style.

Tack Facts
Now you’re ready to shop for the rest of your trail tack. Here’s a brief rundown.

Bridle. Your trail-riding bridle should be sturdy, smooth, and durable. For rest breaks, you’ll need a way to tie your horse safely; there are several ways to arrange this. Your horse can wear a halter under his bridle, with the lead rope looped around the horse’s neck and fastened back to itself. You’ll then be able to remove and replace the bridle without ever losing control of your horse. Another option is a halter-bridle combination, where the bit is attached to the halter by a couple of short straps, and can easily be removed and replaced for tying and grazing ease. Some bridles feature reins that can be linked together and converted to a 12- or 14-foot lead.

Bit. If you ride with a bit on the trail, your best choice is likely to be a snaffle (a real one—not a shanked bit with a broken mouthpiece) or a low-port curb with grazing shanks. If, like many riders, you prefer not to use a bit on the trail, you still have a variety of options: a bosal, a side pull, an English-jumping hackamore noseband, or the latest (and quite possibly the best) option on the market today: the Bitless Bridle. Whatever you decide, try to avoid mechanical hackamores—most are far too severe, catching your horse’s sensitive nose and chin in a vice-like grip. Also avoid any bit with long and/or forward-swept shanks that could catch on branches, brush, or (because horses do turn their heads) a stirrup or fender.

Breastcollar. A breastcollar will help hold your saddle in place when you climb hills. Depending on your saddle style, you can use either an English hunting-style breastplate or a Western breastcollar made from leather, a synthetic, or fleece-lined nylon. Check your breastcollar on rest breaks. Any breastcollar can chafe your horse, especially if it’s not adjusted correctly. Nylon edges can be especially chafing; fleece quickly becomes wet with sweat, and collects dirt, leaves, and seeds that can also chafe him. 

Crupper. If you find your saddle slipping forward when you ride down a hill, a crupper will help everything stay in place. Buy one that’s smooth and padded, and adjust it so that it doesn’t put constant pressure on your horse’s tail. The first time you use it, let your horse get used to the feel before you mount up. If possible, saddle him, and turn him loose in a small, secure enclosure for a few minutes. Some horses kick out or buck—perfectly natural reactions—when they first experience the sensation of something “caught” under their tails. If your horse’s first reaction is violent, you won’t want to be on his back or within range of his hind feet.TTR

Jessica Jahiel, PhD (www.jessicajahiel.com) is an internationally recognized clinician and lecturer, and an award-winning author of books on horses, riding, and training. Her e-mail newsletter (www.horse-sense.org) is a popular worldwide resource. Her latest book is The Horse Behavior Problem Solver: Your Questions Answered about how Horses Think, Learn, and React (Storey Publishing. For more information, see page 16).