Hoof boots look funky. Hoof boots muffle the age-old sound of hoofbeats on the trail.
Most cost more than 10 times the cost of a pair of steel horseshoes. Yet horse
owners are booting up their horses and hitting the trail to experiment with
temporary hoof protection for trail riding.
Is it a good idea? Before you invest in expensive hoof boots that may or may
not be right for your horse, check out our tips, do your homework, and talk to
your farrier and veterinarian. Then decide which, if any, boot is best for your
horse.
A New Age
A muddy section of the trail is coming up. After last weekend’s storm, a long
stretch is submerged, and your horse stiffens slightly as he picks his way
through the hummocks. "Please, please, don’t come off," you whisper to
yourself.
Back on dry ground, you lean over and check your horse’s feet. Success! Four
wet, muddy hoof boots, snug and right where they belong.
If you’re lucky.
The New Age of hoof boots has sent trail riders online and to tack shops in
search of an alternative to horseshoes. What many have found is a confusing
choice between materials, designs, and sizes of hoof boots. Sorting through the
models and manufacturers is made all the more confusing by glowing
recommendations from riders around the globe who sing the praises of one style
over all others.
On the other side of the hoof boot coin are riders who bought boots in the
wrong shape or size for their horses, only to see the boots fail on the trail,
or cause sores and rubbing on their horses’ pasterns and heel bulbs.
"I told you so" is something no rider wants to hear from his or her farrier
and vet, so start with a consultation from one or both of your professional
advisors. Chances are, they’ve seen the benefits and ill-effects of hoof boots
in horses like yours, and can offer sound advice.
| Boot Showcase |
Boa Horse Boot
Easyboot Epic with Gaiter
Sabre Sneakers
Bosana Boot
Marquis Supergrip Horse Boot
Horse-Moc
Tread Options 
Boa Boot
Easyboot (studded)
Dallmer Clog
|
Size & Shape
You may be so accustomed to your own horse, or horses of your chosen breed,
that you aren’t aware of how varied hoof shape can be.
Thoroughbred-type feet
tend to be more round, while those of gaited
breeds may be more oval. Trying to
jam an oval hoof into a round boot
sounds like an old clichÈ, and it’s just as
true: Find a boot shaped
like your horse’s foot!
Most hoof-boot makers will advise
you to make tracings of your horse’s
feet soon after trimming. Custom-made boots will require this step. By
tracing
your horse’s foot, you’ll clearly see whether it’s wider than
it is long. Hoof
boots also vary in shape.
Keep in mind that your tracings will capture your horse’s feet as they were
shaped on that day. If you’ve recently removed your horse’s shoes, his
foot
shape may change quite a bit in the months to come. Plan to
evaluate hoof-boot
fit on a regular basis, or opt for boots with plenty
of adjustment features.
Custom-made boots are sometimes required for hard-to-fit sizes. For instance,
if you have a half-draft trail horse, you may be limited in your
choices to find
a boot big enough for him. You might also have a hard
time finding boots for a
small pack animal, such as a burro or Sicilian
donkey.
Trail Terrain
Hoof boots offer plenty of protection for the bottom of your horse’s foot,
but consider other terrain aspects. Do you ride on the beach or over
sandy
trails? Sand can irritate a horse’s tender skin on the back of
the pastern, and
a boot full of sand can be a heavy lever on the end of
a horse’s legs. Look for
boots with plenty of vent holes, and make sure
that the holes stay open.
If you ride in sand or on pebbly ground, consider applying socks or gaiters
under the boots to protect your horse’s skin. The Marquis boot from
Germany
offers optional Teflon socks. Old Mac’s can be paired with a
pastern wrap that
seals the area around the boot top. The new "Epic"
design for Easyboots
comes with a protective gaiter for the pastern
area.
Endurance riders in Vermont who train in Old Mac’s pull athletic tube socks
over their horses’ hooves and under their feet to prevent rubbing and
abrasion
from hard trail work before 100-mile rides. Marquis boots have
an inflatable
pastern collar that aids in custom fitting, but also
helps keep out debris.
Water is the big test for hoof boots. Most materials won’t be affected by
water damage, but the fit must be correct to keep drainage vents or
holes clear
of obstruction. Captive water sloshing inside a boot can
affect your horse’s
stride and even cause a stumble. Some horses are
annoyed by water and appreciate
quick drainage. Boots without drainage,
such as soaking boots, shouldn’t be worn
on trail for safety reasons.
Many riders report that their horses seem more surefooted when barefoot or
wearing boots. An exception may be on ice and snow. A winter boot is
probably on
the drawing board somewhere, but in the meantime, ask your
farrier about winter
traction for hoof boots. Easyboots are available
with optional sharp studs; the
Marquis is equipped with removable studs
similar to those worn by jumpers and
event horses. Other boot models
may also have this add-on option.
A properly fitting trail boot that’s equipped with removable traction may be
a very good investment if you live in a snowy, icy climate. Remember to
remove
the studs during trailering, or your mats will suffer!
| Booting Up |
|
You’ve bought the boots, now what? Here are some startup tips.
• Save all the packaging and product literature that comes with your
boots, especially the receipt. Read any and all advice from the
manufacturer.
• Make a note of the manufacturer’s website and telephone numbers.
• Check photos of the boots on horses as shown by the manufacturer. Note
how the boots fit in the heels and around the pastern.
• Make sure that your horse isn’t overdue for trimming, as long hooves
may affect the fit.
• Schedule a quiet hour with your horse to fit the boots for the first
time. Tie him safely, or have a helper hold your horse while you apply the
boots.
• Photograph the boots on your horse’s feet, then remove them. Decide
whether you’re satisfied with the size and fit, and the ease or difficulty of
application. If you’re not convinced these boots will work for your horse, call
the tack shop or manufacturer immediately to arrange an exchange.
• Apply the boots, and walk your horse. Ask him to turn, and note whether
the boots twist on his feet. Judge how comfortable he appears. Make a mental
note of any changes in stance, or whether the boots brush, particularly in the
hind feet. Trot your horse on the lead line, and listen for an even footfall.
• Saddle up, and head out on a short trail ride over level ground. Again,
listen for any changes in the normal sounds of your horse’s gaits. Ask a
knowledgeable horseperson to observe your horse under saddle to see whether
anything appears awkward or out of sync. If so, switch places with your helper
to observe the problem yourself.
• When you’re happy with the boots, note which one is marked right and
which one is marked left (if applicable). Small markings are easy to read on a
new pair of boots, but will be obscured with wear. Place a dot of paint in two
different colors on the inside collar of each boot to help you put them on the
correct feet.
• Write your name, the size of the boot, and your horse’s name on the
inside of each boot with a waterproof marker for identification purposes.
• Practice applying and removing the boots several times, until your
horse is accustomed to the procedure and you can judge what the normal
adjustments entail. You need to be able to remove the boots quickly in case of
injury.
• Explain to barn workers and other riders that your boots are valuable,
and that you plan to take good care of them. Any boots left lying around the
barn should be returned to the tack room or to you to avoid confusion and to
ensure the correct boot is applied to the correct horse. |
Soundness Considerations
You’ve probably heard of horses that are "ouch-y" when newly barefoot, but
sound when wearing protective hoof boots. Horses that are in transition
from
long-term shoeing to a new barefoot lifestyle need to be carefully
evaluated
when they show signs of hoof pain. Make sure that the cause
of lameness is
simply tender soles and frogs, and not an injury or
disease condition, such as
laminitis.
When in doubt, veterinarians advise owners not to ride a horse in boots
that’s not sound without them. Chronic ligament injuries in the foot or
torn
laminae in the hoof wall will be aggravated by exercise, and the
booted horse
that trots out of the barn and onto the trail may be
limping home, or need a
lift.
Check with your vet before riding a horse medicated for a lameness
condition.
Horses that have been barefoot for several months but are still sore-footed,
or horses that become sore-footed under the weight of a rider, aren’t
good
candidates for hoof boots, even if they appear sound once boots
are applied.
They still need time to grow a stronger hoof.
Hoof boots aren’t designed to obscure signs of preexisting injury; they’re
designed to protect hooves on the trail. Don’t be fooled by a
temporarily sound
horse; the soreness is still there and may be
aggravated by forced exercise.
Many boot advocates argue that circulation is needed to improve hoof quality
and growth, and that boots make it possible for horses to exercise (and
thereby
enhance circulation to the lower leg and foot) without pain.
Make your decision
with the input of your veterinarian and farrier, and
make sure you know the
cause of your horse’s lameness. Don’t be
pressured into riding an unsound horse.
If you decide to get out the
hoof boots and ride, keep in mind that you’re
exercising for therapy,
not out for a conditioning workout.
Sometimes, small changes in hoof balance or the amount of sole or wall
removed will greatly benefit a sore-footed horse. Horses that have been
trimmed
too short need a chance to grow more sole. Hoof boots aren’t a
replacement for
natural sole.
Fitting Facts
"Fit" and "size" aren’t interchange-
able terms when it comes to hoof
boots. Determine the correct size for your horse in consultation with
the
manufacturer or
a knowledgeable tack-shop salesperson. Plan to
spend some
time researching models and have your hoof tracings on hand
as you examine each
one.
Find out in advance under what conditions the boots may be returned for a
refund if they don’t fit your horse. Also ask about warranties for
materials.
Ideally, you should load your barefoot horse onto a trailer and drive to the
tack shop. If the shop permits, and if your trailer and horse are
spotlessly
clean, you may be allowed to try a boot on your horse to see
how it fits.
Don’t be surprised if a boot fits your horse’s front feet, but not the hind
ones. Hind feet are generally more oval, and may be a different size.
Likewise,
if your horse has mismatched front hoof angles — a common
condition — your horse
may need two different boot sizes. This can be
problematic if the boots are sold
only in pairs, but correct fit is
imperative. Some horses wear boots from
different manufacturers at the
same time.
High-tech boots, such as the Swiss Horse Boot, are best used after a
professional fitting by authorized farriers or hoof trimmers who
specialize in
those boots. Their knowledge and experience will be a
great resource for
you.
Boa Boots and Old Mac’s are two boots that look like low-tech alternatives
when compared to the European models, but actually are quite the
opposite. Both
offer plenty of adjustments for odd-shaped hoof walls,
but the shape of the
platform under the foot still must match your
horse’s hoof shape. Even with an
ample hook-and-loop adjustment system
in Old Mac’s, a good fit must start with
selecting the correct
size.
Every few months, stand back and evaluate how your horse’s hoof boots fit.
Ask your farrier to check the boots and note any developing
problems.
Note that you may or may not be able to use the same pair of boots for
multiple horses. Over time, some boots seem to have more "memory" than
others,
adapting to the hooves they cover. Don’t try to make an old
boot fit a new
horse; the likelihood of a good fit will decrease!
Likewise, don’t share boots with friends and acquaintances, except perhaps in
a dire emergency. The likelihood of getting the boots back in their
original
condition is slim. Plus, boots are easily lost or stolen, and
any mishaps that
the borrower experiences will surely be blamed on the
borrowed boots.
Hoof-Boot Upkeep
Each hoof-boot model comes with its own maintenance instructions, but
incorporate your own routine before and after use. Here are some upkeep
tips.
• Cleaning is critical and best done immediately after use. Check all
materials for wear, particularly buckles and stitching.
• If the boot uses hook-and-loop fasteners, invest in a brush designed
for this material, and clean it before and after each use.
• Try to keep boots out of stalls, where shavings and sawdust can foul
the material.
• After rinsing or wiping down the boots with damp sponges, dry the boots
thoroughly, then store them in their natural, closed shapes in a dry
place. If
you hang the boots on hooks after cleaning to dry, don’t
forget to put them
away.
• A laced boot, such as the Sabre Sneaker, should have spare laces on
hand; carefully clean the eyelets after each wearing to make the next
lacing
easy.
When to Boot Boots
If your horse suffers from a chronic lameness condition or shows the effects
of chronic hoof-capsule distortion (as diagnosed by your farrier or
vet), deal
with the problem before you attempt to boot your horse for
trail riding.
Sheared heels, contracted heels, and chronic thrush are conditions that
require professional assistance and diligent hoof trimming to correct.
Once
corrected, your horse’s foot will probably be shaped differently
than before,
and the wait to purchase boots will be worth it.
One aspect of hoof boots that’s rarely discussed is the horse’s own
individual preference. Many horses have worn bell boots and don’t
object to
having their pasterns handled. Some horses seem to delight in
the boots as an
alternative to shoes, while others resent standing for
them to be applied. Still
others seem to object to having anything
around their pasterns and will fidget.
Your fidgety horse may calm down
after a few applications, but monitor him for
further reactions rather
than putting yourself in danger.
Don’t force your horse to wear boots if he seems nervous or uncomfortable.
Try building up wear time gradually until he becomes accustomed to the
feel.
Horses that have clipped coronets and pasterns, and/or sanded hoof walls (to
hold a hoof polish for showing) may need extra protection from rubbing.
Check
with boot makers about different ointments and barrier creams, or
try Easyboots
with foam padding.
Buying used hoof boots is a risk. Examine the boots carefully for wear, and
try to determine whether they’ve been properly maintained. Try them on
your
horse before you buy.
Boots are a great choice if you know your horse well. A sensitive rider will
know instantly if his or her horse is surefooted, striding out
confidently, and
well-balanced. Try changing leads to see how smoothly
or reluctantly your horse
complies. Make mental notes along the trail
of fatigue, gait glitches, and head
carriage.
With luck, your horse will join the boot brigade and enjoy being barefoot the
rest of the day. If not, horseshoes are available in new materials and
models to
accommodate every horse’s needs.
Stumble It!
