On the trail, tack changes aren’t easy, so saddle fit becomes all important.
Optimal saddle fit will let you and your horse leave home comfortable and sound,
and return that way six or seven hours later. Here, we give you 10 at-a-glance
saddle tips — six for your horse and four for you — designed to improve your
trail rides, no matter what type of saddle you ride in. We’ve also added a handy
resource guide to saddle and saddle-accessory manufacturers and distributors.
1. Check saddle design. The way your saddle fits your horse is the key to his
comfort and soundness on the trail. The bars — the part of the saddle tree that
lie on either side of your horse’s spine — should lie along the back muscles
without touching the spine itself. The saddle’s front arch should be high enough
to leave your horse’s withers free. It should also be wide enough and angled so
that his shoulders can slide back and forth freely. (For more on saddle fit,
function, and design, order About Saddle Fit, a videotape by saddlemaker and
clinician Dave Genadek. Contact: About the Horse, Inc., 800/449-7409;
www.aboutthehorse.com.)
2. Watch for shape-changing. Horses can change shape for any number of
reasons, including weight gain or loss, muscle gain or loss, or simply due to
the aging process. A saddle that was perfect for last year’s trail rides might
not be perfect this year.
3. Select the right cinch. If your saddle doesn’t fit, don’t count on the
cinch to put things right. Overtightening the front cinch will only make your
horse uncomfortable. If your saddle is double-rigged to accommodate a back
cinch, use both cinches, and don’t forget your connector strap for security.
Select a cinch that’s easy to clean, won’t pick up trail detritus, and won’t rub
or pinch your horse. Mohair cinches are tops, but neoprene cinches are a close
second. (Caveat: Unlike mohair, a neoprene cinch doesn’t breathe and can be
overtightened.) Avoid fleece and faux-fleece, which are burr magnets.
4. Consider a back cinch. Consider a back cinch if your trails are steep, or
if you’re not entirely secure in the saddle. A back cinch stabilizes a saddle,
which leads to rider stability, as well. (Tip: Before you hit the trail in a
back cinch for the first time, saddle your horse and longe or lead him, so he
gets used to the feel. Check for any rubbing.)
5. Consider a breastcollar and crupper. These saddle add-ons provide security
— and will help reduce saddle-sore risk — especially on hills. A breastcollar
will help prevent your saddle from sliding toward your horse’s rump going
uphill, while a crupper — which runs from the back of the saddle under your
horse’s tail — will help prevent the saddle from sliding forward while going
downhill. Select a wide, flat breastcollar made from heavy leather for equine
comfort, or consider neoprene. Again, avoid anything made from fleece. A crupper
is especially recommended if your horse has low, flat withers. For optimal fit,
make sure you can fit two stacked fingers between the strap and your horse’s
rump. Help your horse adjust to a crupper the same way you would a back cinch,
above.
6. Add tie rings and saddle strings. Don’t
leave your best, most comfortable
trail saddle at home just because it
lacks sufficient points of attachment for
your on-trail needs. Take it
to a tack shop or saddlemaker, and have them added
on.
7. Check seat fit. Your saddle’s seat should be comfortable.
Check fit before
the first trail ride of the year; they say a saddle
seat can shrink over the
winter — at least, that’s my excuse! You
should be able to relax in the seat
without it getting too "up close
and personal," either in the front or the back.
You should also be able
to stand in your stirrups and sit down again without
moving your lower
legs or feeling as though you’re going to fall forward onto
your
horse’s neck.
8. Invest in wide stirrups. When you’re out riding all day,
you want wide,
flat stirrups that will give you maximum support over
the ball of your foot.
Consider investing in special trail stirrups
with extra-wide treads. Also look
for shock-absorbing pads, which can
enhance foot and joint comfort.
9. Don’t fight the stirrup. If you ride in
a Western saddle, and are plagued
with sore ankles and knees, you might
be trying to keep your feet pointing
forward in stirrups whose natural
position is sideways! Some riders place the
saddle on a chair, soak the
fenders with water, twist them into the desired
position, then put a
broomstick through the stirrups to hold the fenders in that
position
until they dry. The new solution is much simpler: Add a Stirrup
Straight to each stirrup. This device is available from Cashel Company.
(See the
resource guide for contact information.) If you ride in an
English saddle, you can buy Stubben Fillis Stirrups
(available from
Dover Saddlery) or MDC Intelligent Stirrups (available from
SmartPak
Equine). Set the eyes at 90-degree angles to their usual position to
make the stirrups hang straight. Then you’ll never have to fish with
your toes
and torque your ankles to bring those stirrups into
front-facing position — or
to keep them there.
10. Go light. Tired of hefting a 40-pound
saddle onto your horse’s back?
Consider investing in a lightweight
trail saddle. Saddles made specifically for
trail riding tend to weigh
less than those made for roping and other Western
events.
Use
our resource guide to get started on finding one that’s right
for you
and your horse — then hit the trail safely and comfortably!
Stumble It!
