
If your horse begins grazing down to dirt early this spring, you need to react immediately.
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Horse pastures offer many advantages besides
food. A well-managed horse pasture
recycles nutrients from manure and gives horses a place for the exercise and the
social interaction they need. It
provides a beautiful environment, increases forage production/grazing capacity,
and decreases erosion.
Grass cover on a horse pasture will not only keep
the ground from constant erosion, but provides more cushion for horses during
turnout, said Carey Williams, the Equine Extension Specialist at
Rutgers
University.
So how do you keep those all-important
pastures thriving? The first thing
to do is call your county extension agent.
He or she will help determine what forage species are there and look into
those species and determine if they are grazing tolerant, said John Andrae, a
forage and grazing management specialist at
Clemson
University.
If you’ve got broodmares and you have toxic
tall fescue in your pastures, for example, something’s going to have to
change. Or let’s say you have
horses on pasture year round. Some
forage species will be impossible to keep up, but Bermuda grass may thrive with
that. Your agent will tell you what
you don’t know.
The agent can test your soil, which will
help you fertilize and lime pastures correctly. He or she will also evaluate the
fertility and help you figure out a seeding and fertilizing plan. This might not happen too fast, since a
new stand of grasses must also be allowed to establish before placing horses on
the field for the first time. New,
young grasses are high in tasty sugars and starches. They appeal to horses, who will rapidly
consume the new growth and kill off the new pasture before they have time to
establish a firm root system.
The lack of a root base will cause the
grasses to easily be torn up by the wear and tear of the horses’ hooves on newly
planted grass growth. If you seed in the spring, don’t turn horses out until at
least late fall or better yet, the following spring. A good guideline is at least eight
months post seeding.
| Put It To Use |
• Allow only light/moderate riding on
grazing areas. • Fence off a “sacrifice” area for required
grass-rest
periods. • Get your county extension agent
involved. • Reseed before weeds take hold. |
The biggest mistake is too many horses on
too few
acres. It’s difficult to
make anything work in that situation,
because the horses don’t allow the forage
to grow. Stocking—how
many horses
you put out on a certain pasture—truly depends upon the
area of the country you
live in, and the quality of the forage you are
providing. At least 2-3 acres of pasture is needed
per horse in
order to maintain forage productivity to meet the nutritional
requirements of a 1,000-lb. horse.
In more arid
climates, of course, each horse may need a four-acre
allotment.
| Should You Aerate? |
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You may have heard about the debate over
whether to aerate pastures, a process typically done with an aerator or
subsoiler. This is a plow with
shanks spaced widely apart that go deep and break up hard clay pans in the
soil. (Think about the spikes
golfers wear that help aerate the course.)
This method can roughen the pasture up, which can make it tough to
navigate. |
Using The Land
Light-to-moderate riding on properly stocked
pastures won’t
hurt the food source, but if the pasture is overgrazed and
abused,
riding can injure those plants. You’ll also do more damage if you ride
over muddy/wet acreage. Rest periods are needed for common cool-season
forages
like tall fescue, and resting means no riding as well as no
turnout on the
grass.
Williams cautions that it’s
important to
decide if the primary function of the turn-out areas is
for exercise or
nutrition. If less than 1.5 acres
of
pasture is available per horse, the pasture grasses won’t be able to remain
productive under continuous grazing conditions. Pastures under
heavy grazing pressure
will quickly be reduced to exercise lots.
If more than two acres of pasture is available per horse, enough forage
can usually be maintained to serve as a major nutritional
source.
A “sacrifice lot,” which is just a dry lot,
with a
run-in shed if you can manage it, can help your pastures. The horses can
stand in there when you
need to rest your pastures, or when muddy
conditions would keep the horse
slipping and churning up the grass.
(You’ll have to feed hay, and muck the
area. It’s sort of like a
big
stall.) Ideally, a grass area
around the sacrifice
lot will help filter any runoff.
Work to prevent weeds, which take up space
and
nutrients your grass needs.
Birds and wildlife spread weed seeds
to pastures, and weeds also like to
hitch a ride on feed and
manure.
Since weeds love bare areas in pastures, you need to
maintain thick,
healthy pasture grasses that can compete with weed
seedlings. If weeds become a persistent problem,
you can use
herbicides to control them (follow instructions).
Weeds should be identified carefully
(another area
in which your extension agent can help) to choose the correct
product. Since new weeds will often
fill in the spaces
created when herbicides are used, it is important to correct
the
conditions that created the weed problem in the first place, and then
overseed pastures when necessary.
Continuous grazing generates greater stress
on
pasture systems than rotational grazing. Horses are spot grazers.
They’ll choose to graze in preferred
areas within a pasture and consume
specific forage species. When horses graze
repeatedly on the same
plants, carbohydrate reserves are depleted, the plants
are unable to
grow new leaf tissue, and the nutritious plants will be eliminated
from
the pasture. Weeds will
proliferate, and quality grasses will die
off.
If you rotate pastures, forages have time to
replace the tissue lost in grazing and replenish nourishing
carbohydrate
levels. Rotational grazing requires
time,
labor, fencing, and a source of water in each paddock, which is
prohibitive to some horse owners.
Williams argues that
the increased productivity offsets the increased
costs of rotational
grazing.
Bottom Line
If you have pastureland, count yourself
lucky. Then call your county
extension agent to get the information you need to keep grass growing.